mods but keeping it stock

WWJD

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I'm wondering about what can be done to a stock busa [IE mine] without spending a dime on extra mod parts? By this I mean, I don't want to add any extra performance enhancing parts to it that aren't already on it. How much tweak can you do to get that little extra out of it?

remove reflectors [weight]
cut rear fender [weight]
cutting away airbox? airbox mod?
removing pair valve in exhaust
using Mobile 1 oil
87 octane gas [don't start with that argument!]
tweaking the tune to work with the gas, airbox mod, and pair valve removal

Is there more stuff? is it even worth it? I'm sticking with my 'no mods' policy, but figure removing stuff only helps.
Comments? Am I on the right track? Remember, no money spent on mod parts, just tuneup and mechanic work.
 
maybe a K&N air filter too since it already has an air filter...
isn;t there an air duct thingy I could emulate with electrical tape?
I want to be able to legitimately call it stock.
 
When you're ready for tires choose the lightest ones. Also you can degree your cams, index your spark plugs (a bit extreme), make sure your chain is tight and lubed, if you want to get real crazy have your crank shaft balanced (big gain) but costs alot due to labor. Hollow out your exhaust baffles, but be careful. You may need a pwrcmdr if you go to far. Oh yeah run 87oct if you'd like but keep a very low tank for weight savings
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maybe a K&N air filter too since it already has an air filter...
isn;t there an air duct thingy I could emulate with electrical tape?
I want to be able to legitimately call it stock.
Use a BMC airfilter, and Yes you can use tape and Mid size mr clean bottles around the ram air ducts. Cut the mr clean bottle necks off, they fit perfect. , then tape them arount the air ducts to seal them.
 
BMC better than K&N? In what way? I know nothing of these things. Also, what do I look for in a good tuner? You know, someone to adjust the air/fuel crap so it works best without burning things up. These are things I can not do due to ignoreance, unwillingness to learn and time.
 
I dont want to start an arguement, But whats the deal with bmc versus k&n. Ive never heard of bmc, I thought k&n was the best air filter out there? Can someone tell me, Im i living in the 80s?
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OK I think the most obvious way to increase performance would be to hit the Gym, diet and loose about 20-30lbs. Better performance and it's free.
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OK, then how about an inexpensive mod that will make a pretty serious improvement. Re-gear that bad boy, add a few teeth to the rear sprocket and your Busa should enjoy a new found thrust... Pretty inexpensive and you prolly won't even need a new chain.
 
I dont want to start an arguement, But whats the deal with bmc versus k&n. Ive never heard of bmc, I thought k&n was the best air filter out there? Can someone tell me, Im i living in the 80s?    
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K & N's don't work well on bikes!

Something with the lube on the filter...bla....bla....bla.....restricts air flow.....bla...bla.....

Plain and simple the K & N has been proven time and time again, on a stock or lightly modded bike you will lose power on the dyno over the stock filter. The BMC race has made a slight increase but nothing to run out and buy.

So.....use a BMC race or leave it stock period. Some use NO filter for Drag Racing only but not me!
 
Getting Ghetto with it. Strip all of the paint off, it is just excess weight. LOL!
I had considered suggesting painting it a lighter colour, then again.....

Take out one of the brake lamps.  It'll still be legal and save weight.

Let some air out of the tyres.  Again, weight.

Drain the oil, water and brake fluid to minimum.  You guessed it, weight.

Remove the keyfob.  Weight.

Convert the electrics to 6V.  (Hey, volts must weigh something)

Remove all of the levers and footpegs (weight)

Remove spare fuses (weight)

That lot ought to add 10 or 30 bhp.

Steve
 
I see they make BMC normal and BMC Race for track. Should I think the normal would filter better on streets, thus the RACE one would be a bad idea? Letting in too much gunk? Would special tuning need to be done with the new filter or is it drop in and go?
 
only run 1/4 tank of gas at all times...that will save weight.

get rid of your bar end weights
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could try removing the 4-2 x pipe and get a 4-2-1 and get rid of your left can and that will save probably 10lbs. not sure if you'll lose power doing this since it was designed as a 4-2-1-2 system.



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WWJD One guy told me that to shave weight he removed the fenders, stock exhaust, grab bar, mirrors, kickstand, rotors and brakes. Unfortunatley that was the last thing he told me after he went down the drag strip!!!!
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GOTCHA!! for you noob's this was a joke. Please do NOT remove your mirrors!!
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BMC's race filter moves more cubic air volume than others due to a less restrictive filter construction. You can exceed your needsfor incoming air flow. If you are not able to get the air out as fast as it can get in, it is a waste. I think maybe people sometimes over oil their K&N's and get a little too much restriction. I have had good experiences with them and like the lifetime filter idea. There is maintenance with them and if you do not do it, it can let harmful debris through. If you are not good with maintaning something like that, I would suggest sticking with disposable filters. If you are not going to change or modify your exhaust, you may want to minimize you air box mod & pair mod line of thinking. Once again, if you cannot get the air out as fast as you can get it in you are wasting your time. The better your bike breathes, ideally the faster it will go. Efficiency is a key component here. Trying to make your bike gulp tons of air with out opening it up enough to do so does not always work. I am not talking, turbos or superchargers here. Remember; Intake, air box, filter, throttle bodies, intake valves, piston chambers, exhaust valves, exhaust ports, headers, mid pipe, muffler/s, and even the tip all affect the breathing ability of your engine. Try to simplify your thinking and just breathe in, breathe out Grass Hopper.
 
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