Master link issue

blusmbl

Registered
So I put a new EK ZZZ chain and steel sprockets (+2 rear) on the Hayabusa over the winter. I have never used a chain press before, and think I jacked it all up.

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Besides the plate being on backwards (my garage is dim!!!), the rivet heads are split slightly. I used the guide plate spacers so the width is okay and the o-rings aren't squished out, but I'm worried about the splits. Is this going to fail prematurely, and should I put a new master link on it? I had no idea how much I needed to press them over, but apparently I went too far.

Thoughts? I've ridden it to work once so far, with no catastrophic failures. The +2 rear feels great, and I have the speedohealer calibrated to within .5 mph at 60. :D

I do have a new master link sitting here, but I'll have to borrow or rent a chain tool again to install it. Is the one on the bike destined to fail?

Curious in Detroit,
Nick
 
Well, if it makes you feel any better, I split one of my rivet heads on the link to my track R6 like you did. I've been riding it at track speed (triple digits, hard braking/downshifting, sudden acceleration, etc..) and its still holding after 2 years of that kind of treatment.
 
I think a new link is about $6 so if it were me I would change it for sure.
Especially if you already have one.
No substitute for peace of mind.
They just have to be expanded a bit, from the look of them about 1/2 of what you did to those.
Check them no matter what everytime you lube the chain.
Good luck!
 
How much could your local shop charge for a link? They have the tools and the know-how to ease your mind.
 
I would replace it myself but have customers that did install themselves with same result and their fine.keep a eye on it if you don't.
 
Alright, I'll probably just change it. I already bought a spare master link. Like you guys said, for peace of mind.

Thanks!
 
looks like you never cleaned the new chain?? anyway i would change it like everyone else said for peace of mind but i`m anal..lol if you have a 0-1 micrometer you can mearsure the rivet head a few times as you smash it.. it should be about .215 to .225 after your done.
 
OMG if you don't clean that chain you'll be sorrrrrrrry !
I was so happy when I got my new black wheels I never thought about chain .
Rode home one hour .
When I got there the rear wheel was white almost from all that stuff !
 
It's less then 10 bucks to replace the master link and like everyone else has said, it's a cheap piece mind.
 
may want to just test it out first...

1.) cover rear tire with bleach

2.) Have a buddy hold the front end of the bike for you

3.) Lock the front brake hard

4.) Rev bike to 6K rpm and then release the clutch (first gear).

5.) Rinse. Repeat.

If its good after the gas tank goes dry, you are probly ok.:beerchug:
 
I prefer 2nd gear and ATF, it has more of a chance of igniting!

I'm going to change it, turns out a friend has the uber-swanky DID chain tool so I'll just borrow that.

That's stock chain lube! Why wipe it all off, it's there for a reason. It did fling around on the swingarm, inner frame, and wheel, but nothing a rag can't fix.

Edit: super, thanks for the spec. That's exactly what I needed, now I won't crush it into oblivion.
 
Change it now! I had a New ( less than 50mls) chain snap last week end on an 8grande hole shot, It rapped around the back sprocket locked tire down and slid me to a stop. messed up my extension, sprocket, and three studs and nuts on the sprocket. 5 seconds later I"d be doing over 100mph and things would have been a bit worse:whistle: links are cheep, change it
 
The correct response: Change it, the 10 bucks and 20 minutes is not worth a chance.

What I did: Said screw it and rode and raced for two years. Mine was not split as badly as yours, though. I would replace it if it were mine and was that bad
 
Alright, changing it at the end of the week. And this time I'll put the plate on with the correct side facing out!
 
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