Instrument Cluster keeps resetting... ARGH!!!!

UrbanKnight

UrbanKnight

Registered
Guessing I may have an issue....

Here is what happened/is happening:

Installed HID's (just low beam) Easy install, no issues, and love them to death..

Rode almost 500 miles, no issues

Sunday, While riding, my tach and speedo turn off (Lights, turn, gear indicator, fuel and temp all still work). RIde to destination, pull the cluster, plug it back in, everything works, back on the road.

Tuesday, riding out with the guys, stop at a local spot, get back on the bike to go, as I am riding off, notice the clock has reset to 1pm (was right time when I parked)

Today,
Get on the bike, time is still off, so I set the clock. Start the bike, right after bike fires, guages reset clock back to 1pm... ARGH and double argh...


Any ideas before I head back to the dealer?
 
You must have knocked something lose in the cluster. Take advantage of you warranty before it runs up.
 
???Mines do that with HIDS too...
But ask your sellers opinion..I think is some sort or ray that ballasts produse while working???
 
Come to think of it, mine has been doing the same thing since I installed the HIDs, only notice the clock though. Does not seem to be affecting anything else in the cluster.
 
twotonevert said:
Come to think of it, mine has been doing the same thing since I installed the HIDs, only notice the clock though. Does not seem to be affecting anything else in the cluster.
Click to expand...

Correct, everything else works, just the clock going coocoo.....

Not sure a new cluster would change that.. WOnder if the HID start delay box would fix this....(the thing that delays you HID for a few seconds on startup///
 
UrbanKnight -

When you installed your HIDs... by chance did you disconnect one of your battery terminals during the install process?

I ask because the problem you are describing (resetting of gauges) also happens to be consistent with a loose battery terminal. Worth a look... whether you touched the battery or not during your install.

Otherwise... it's kinda a stretch to believe the HID kit is really tied to the resetting of instruments, unless you are somehow tapping power for your ballasts off a circuit that is related to (or otherwise sympathetic to) the Instrument Cluster circuit.

What kind of HID kit is this (brand/model)? If it's "generic", which vendor did you get it from?

Lastly... if you wired this HID to work off of the stock low-beam circuit, this is not going to make your ignitor very happy over time. You need (rather, should have) a dedicated toggle switch to light up your low-beam HID. If you use the stock wiring circuit, you are forcing a back-to-back "double-ignition" of your HID kit. The HID bulb ignites when you switch the key on, extinguishes when you hit the starter, and re-ignites a second time when you release the start button, all within just a couple seconds. Each time the HID bulb is lit up, the ignitor sends ~ 23,000 volts down the wire to your bulb. To force it to do this twice every time you start the bike makes for a hard life for your ignitor.

You ought to consider installing a dedicated switch to solve this problem. 'Course, you now have to remember to switch on your HID after you start the bike, or get a "time-delay" type of relay to automatically do this. I just use a simple toggle switch for my HID low beam....
 
Last edited:
I pulled the negative batt cable when I did it, I will recheck tightness tonight.

I am using DDM HID's(apexicone) 55w ballasts, 4500k. Lifetime warranty jobs, but nonetheless. I let the lights come on to almost full bright before I start the bike to help the ignitior fire cold bulbs. I am thinking of getting the HID delay kit to help the ignitors life.

Nothing else was tapped as it really was relatively plug and play, I plugged the Ballast into the stock harness at was done with it...
 
Last edited:
Warchild said:
UrbanKnight -

When you installed your HIDs... by chance did you disconnect one of your battery terminals during the install process?

I ask because the problem you are describing (resetting of gauges) also happens to be consistent with a loose battery terminal. Worth a look... whether you touched the battery or not during your install.

Otherwise... it's kinda a stretch to believe the HID kit is really tied to the resetting of instruments, unless you are somehow tapping power for your ballasts off a circuit that is related to (or otherwise sympathetic to) the Instrument Cluster circuit.

What kind of HID kit is this (brand/model)? If it's "generic", which vendor did you get it from?

Lastly... if you wired this HID to work off of the stock low-beam circuit, this is not going to make your ignitor very happy over time. You need (rather, should have) a dedicated toggle switch to light up your low-beam HID. If you use the stock wiring circuit, you are forcing a back-to-back "double-ignition" of your HID kit. The HID bulb ignites when you switch the key on, extinguishes when you hit the starter, and re-ignites a second time when you release the start button, all within just a couple seconds. Each time the HID bulb is lit up, the ignitor sends ~ 23,000 volts down the wire to your bulb. To force it to do this twice every time you start the bike makes for a hard life for your ignitor.

You ought to consider installing a dedicated switch to solve this problem. 'Course, you now have to remember to switch on your HID after you start the bike, or get a "time-delay" type of relay to automatically do this. I just use a simple toggle switch for my HID low beam....
Click to expand...

Thanks War. It makes sense now. I need install a switch. Does it matter if I use the negative or positive side of the bulb harness to install my switch?
 
I found that when my clock started resetting that the battery was about to give up the ghost. Time for a new battery.
 
The bike is 1 month old!

Good thing I have an in with the dealership... I will try the easy stuff first, and maybe the delay box...
 
All: Mine did that too, and the guy who did my install for me told me he'd need to install an in-line resistor.

He came over, put the resistor in, and it hasn't happened again since.

Check it.

If you need, I'll get more details from my 'wrench', "Jaws".

mmmkay?
 
Please do Scar! Sounds like the HID delay kit would do the same thing, but I am handy as all getout, so if I can find out what he did, I can duplicate it...
 
K. This is the low-down I got from Jaws.

He put an in-line resistor (same size as you'd use for LED turn signals) on each the positive and negative sides. This prevents the light from "slamming" on. 23,000 volts charging down the wires...

As mentioned previously, this solved the problem. At first, when it happened, I was alarmed and rode the bike directly home.

The clock would reset, the speedo and tach would cycle as if the bike was starting up, but the mileage and such remained unaffected. It was very alarming.

You're riding along at say, 4:30 pm, then the next thing you know, it's 1:01.

You wonder why.

At first you attribute it to the warp-speed and time-travel which owning a 'busa affords you. But then it happens again (even though you KNOW you didn't engage the after-burners, photon-accelerators, etc.)...and you know something is not right with the world.

Jaws tells me these resistors are available at Radio Shack. He's coming to my house tonight to do some top-secret work on my bike, so I'll tell him we still need to know the size resistors he installed...and I'll report that as I am able.

He further told me that if there was an electrician/electronics expert at Radio Shack when you went there, and you told them it was for LED lights, that guy would know which resistor to sell you.

Hope this helps ya'llz.

Scar Palomar (1) 05OCT08.jpg
 
I don't know if this works on all years but on the 08 I use the old trick of pushing in the starter button, then turn on ignition then pull in clutch to start. The light doesn't come on till I release the starter. Although since I've installed my HID's there have been a couple of times I forgot to start it in this manner, it did not reset anything. Is it possible that the ballast and/or ignitor is to close to the cluster causing interference?
 
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