Installing the Goldvalve

[Jimshog]

This post will show how to install a Gold Valve damper unit into the Busa fork cartridge, for info on how to disassemble the fork itself see CAT3’s excellent pictorial at ().
I did some research on the forum on suspension changes which led me to Racetech’s website (Link to Racetech) where I found just about everything I needed to beef-up the stock forks into something worthy of the bike’s performance. My particulars are: 6-2†and about 230 lbs. I plugged in my info into the calculator on Racetech’s website which gave me the following: Rider Weight: 230 lbs.
Recommended Spring Rate: 1.024 kg/mm (use closest available), which translated into their spring kit:

FRSP S3825100, which is a 1 kg spring @ $109.99.

That along with their Fork Gold Valve Kit:

FMGV S2530 @ $169.99.  

Disassembling the forks required replacing the fluid so I ordered their:

US1=3.5-5w fork oil ( 2 qt required) @ $29.99 ea.

And even though the bike only has 5K on the clock it’s a 2002 so I figured since I’d have access to the fork & dust seals I might as well stick new sets in as cheap insurance:

Fork seals: FKOS 43 P @ $18.38
Dust Seals: FKDS 43 P @ $21.98

Here’s a shot of all the goodies along with some other stuff going on while I’m at it:

 

[Jimshog]

While doing my research I tried to decipher what tools I would need to break-down the fork assembly. The Busa service manual shows some pretty expensive tools and the Racetech website listed lots of tools but didn’t say just which one’s I’d need for the job. Fortunately the folks over at Traxxion Dynamics sell a complete cartridge tool kit -
(Link to Traxxion Dynamics), Part number:

(CFTK) for $89.95

So I ordered one of those as well. Props out to CAT3 here, he shows some home-made tools in his post that will help offset the cost for those of you out there who aren’t bonafide tool-freaks like me (I collect em for fun), you can save yourself a handful of dollars making them yourself.

My two biggest concerns were making sure I had everything I needed parts and supplies-wise to do the job once I got started, and, educating myself beforehand so I knew how to do the job without boogering up something expensive or tough to replace. I started by searching the forum and reading the excellent posting by CAT3 however, his posting stops short of disassembling the cartridge so I read the service manual which says in bold text:

Do not disassemble the inner rod/damper rod (cartridge).

Great, not much help there. Fortunately, when the parts from Racetech arrived they included an instructional DVD which shows how to break-down the dampener unit and replace the cartridge valve body and shims. The video shows a different fork (Showa I think) being disassembled than the Kayaba unit on the Busa so I had to go back and forth between the service manual and the video until I had a good idea what I was doing.  With that said,  I put the bike on stands and following the service manual took off the fork legs. Alternating between CAT3’s post and the service manual I got out the cartridges only to discover that I had no way to properly clamp the cartridge body. The instructions in the Gold Valve kit mentioned using a ‘shaft holding tool.’ A call to Racetech’s tech support line revealed that I needed another tool:

Fork Cartridge OD Holding Tool - TFSH 20 @ $59.99

Which looks like this:

 

[Jimshog]

Believe me, you’ll need this, that little dampening valve is in tight, and there’s no other way to clamp the body without distorting it. After my UPS man delivered my shaft holding tool I was back underway.

With the dampening unit out of the cartridge body swapping out the old valve for the new one with the new shim stack was a piece of cake.

 

[Jimshog]

Here's the original body with shims:

 

[Jimshog]

And the new body with shims:

 

[Jimshog]

With the Gold Valve purchase, Racetech’s website gives you a one-time download with tailored instructions for your specific setup including; number and size of shims for the shim stack, number of clicks for both compression and rebound dampening adjustments, and preload instructions for the fork springs. The Gold Valve instructions are pretty clear and easy to follow, and while they suggested using a micrometer to measure the shims, I was able to use a digital vernier caliper and get correct results.

I’ve taken the bike out 3 times since the installation, once solo and twice with my girlfriend and what a difference! The front end holds its line now without any of the wallowing and wandering of before. Also the squat under braking is all but gone – the dive is so minimal that I don’t even notice it. Two up riding is great! The suspension is compliant and handles even coarse road irregularities without complaint. I was concerned that there would be some additional harshness with the new spring setup but it almost feels smoother and plusher, it’s pretty amazing. On my first ride I stood it up under power in first gear and chopped the throttle to bring it back, the front end hit pretty hard and wow, no bounce, no recoil, no harsh landing, it was like hitting a firm pillow – nothing transmitted back through the bars or frame, just ‘cush’ and back to business. So, if you have the same complaint with the stock fork I did I highly recommend the switch, it’s worth it.
-Jim


Total cost of parts and tools:
FRSP S3825100, which is a 1 kg spring = $109.99.
Gold Valve FMGV S2530 = $169.99.  
US1=3.5-5w fork oil ( 2 qt required) = 59.98
Fork seals: FKOS 43 P = $18.38
Dust Seals: FKDS 43 P = $21.98
Fork Tool bundle (CFTK) = $89.95
Fork Cartridge OD Holding Tool - TFSH 20 = $59.99
Total = 530.26 (plus shipping)

 

[MC MUSTANG]

Jim,
One of the problems that I developed in my minor "mishap" is that the forks do not have full travel - they are ridable but aren't what they should be... I may need to follow your lead and go this road myself... thanks for the great posts with pics and info; this may be one of the things I end up doing to Bessie in the near future! Thanks.

MCM

 

[Jimshog]

I highly recommend it, I was dismayed by the stock fork’s vague feedback and lack of traction along with it’s instability holding a line in corners. I tend to push the front end cornering and depend on good traction and feedback to stay within comfortable limits. Having the front end wander around made the bike feel very sketchy to me and inhibited my confidence riding it. The mods have made this a whole new machine; it rides wonderfully and provides lots of feedback and stability. This combined with the new brakes (see photo #1) made this bike a joy to ride.

 

[frisbee]

What did this $$$$ ??

 

[jimbob8915]

I read this post origannaly and did a search and found traxxion racing will rebuild stock front forks and install gold valves for like $260 plus shipping. They will also revalve the forks to your demands for alittle more. Seems to me like a bargain once you pay for parts and tools.

 

[Wag]

Did this same mod this past Christmas. Well, had the shop do it, actually!

Handling on my bike changed dramatically, much as you say yours has. It's a completely different ride now.

Do the rear shock, too while you're at it.

--Wag--

 

[Mike.P175]

Sounds like another winter mod
on my list

 

[cougar694u]

Funny, I went and wrote up a 'grocery list' that was exactly the same setup you listed; valves, springs, etc. I just don't have the money to do it.

 

[raydog]

Hi Jimshog, thanks so much for your effort in the instructional! Coincidently, I am doing the exact mods at this time. What weight fork oil did you use and I'll be using another premium brand (Bel Rey, Redline, etc). Do you know any reason why I would have to stay with Race Tech for the oil?
I've already gone to Braking wave rotors and SS lines and the braking is simply unreal (90% riding in 80 degrees for 1 hour in tight twisties and never a sign of fade or brake function degeneration!). Have fun....Raydog.

 

[Jimshog]

Greetings Raydog, the fork oil they recommended was 3.5-5w, I presume any quality oil will function pretty much the same. BTW, theirs is blue in color, kinda different; I liked it but who's ever going to see it..?  

 Good luck on your project and let us know how you like the improvement.
-Jim

PS: love the rotors, and I share your opinion - what an improvement! I don't know how folks tolerate the stock setup?

 

[nitrousjunkie]

Nice thread!

 

[raydog]

I know we seldom follow the logical sequence in the improvement evolution of our motorcycles but IMHO it should go like this.....
1) Brakes (level depends on your bankroll but at least SS lines and pads)
2) Suspension..proper dial in and front fork springs at least
3) Ergos..grips, pegs, seat, levers, bars, etc. (the Busa was darn good for
me when stock but Pazzos, pegs, Heli's made my bike an all day sport
tourer!
4) Engine performance PC III, dyno, intake/exhaust and the land beyond if
170 RWHP just isn't enough.
5) Then BLING! (the good news is alot of #1-4 also supplies appearance
improvement).

There, I said it. Raydog