installing custom guage dials

[azpaleo]

Hi! Just wondering if anyone has some knowledge on installing indeglo custom dials from Speed Hut. They have no real installation instructions for a motorcycle. I have a 2003 Hayabusa and want to swap the 185 mph dial and RPM dials with the 220 mph aftermarket. I have a Yellow Box on the way but am not sure how to take apart the fairing, plastic gauge cover, and needle. Any suggestions? Do I need to cut the plastic gauge cover off with a dremel tool or does it unscrew from the back? Help Please!!!!!!!!!

G

 

[Plunk]

Welcome to the boards. I just did this very thing not 2 days ago. I did the 186 to 220 swap as well. In fact I've still got my gauge panel out of the bike because I'm doing some other wiring jobs while I'm in there.

It's really pretty simple. The first thing you'll need to do is get the black plastic inner fairings off. They're just held together with a couple of allen head bolts and a couple of fasteners. I'm not sure how familiar you are with taking this stuff all apart so I'll get pretty basic. Don't take offense if I'm covering stuff you already know. It was a new experience for me. The black plastic fasteners come off easily. You just take an allen wrench or something small and push the small circle center IN to the fairing. That in turn loosens the fastener and allows it to slip out. It seemed odd to me to have to push something in to get it out With all that done just pop your inner fairings out.

You'll find two bolts on the lower corners of the gauge panel. Unbolt them and you should be able to slide the whole assembly out. This is easiest if you're stradling the bike. Pull the assembly forward and reach behind it. You'll need to unplug the wiring. There's one bundle of wires in a neat little plastic connector. You'll need to depress a little clip on the side of the connector to get it to unplug. It can be a little tight. With that done you slide the gauges straight out.

There are about 8 screws on the back side of the gauges. Unscrew them and the back comes off. Inside you'll find a circuit board with your LCD's, LED's, and gauges on it. Now comes the only scary part. I read this in another post from KS-waterbug. Take 2 spoons. Use them as levers. Put one on each side of the round center of the needle. It easily pulls up off. There's just a small metal shaft under the black plastic center. Next unscrew the two screws holding the gauge face on. I actually left my stock gauges under my speedhut gauges. I did this because the holes in my speedhut gauges were too big for the needle stoppers. And on a side note, you'll have to remove the top speed needle stopper. There's no hole for it in the 220 gauges.

Once this is all done you have to put it back together in the opposite fashion. Take all of the individual wires from the gauges and run them through the existing hole in the back where your gauge wiring connector goes. It'll all fit. IMPORTANT: Make sure the wires for your indiglo gauges do NOT get under a screw when putting the back on. Me being the idiot that I am, cut a wire in two and had to solder it back together.

The last thing is wiring power to the indiglos. This can be done via the European running light wire. It's back in there behind the metal that your gauges bolt onto. It's between the headlight and the right turn signal. The power is brown and the common is black/white. It's got a black plug on it. I actually spliced into these wires and used clip in connectors to power my indiglos.

I'm not sure if any of that made sense... it was really long though. If you'd like I can take some pictures while mine is still apart. I'm planning to do some more wiring and finish up in the next couple of days.

 

[ohzone]

First of all, just take your time, don't rush, think about each step b4 you do it the dash can be quite delicate if you just fumble around.

Also it is optional but, but it really is easier to take the nose cone off, to do all the wiring, while you are at it you could put on a set of clear indicator lenses and re-oil your steering dampner....just a thought

(1)Take your screen off,

(2) the 2 black panels around the dash, this step is easier if you loosen your side fairings first,

(3) 2 bolts hold the dash remove the dash, (just pulls out)

(4) 1 cable unplugs from the back, the dash is now out,

(5) undo screws on the back of the dash, carefully seperate the dash, don't touch the inside of the clear lenses they are coated with an antifog,

(6) Carefully Remove the "top speed" plastic "needle stop" on the Speedo (it just pulls out, but is a bitch )

(7) chose 1 gauge at a time and remove the 2 screws,

(8) CAREFULLY slide the needle through the hole in the speedhut dial, careful not to break the needle or the plastic "needle stops" on the gauges
then slide the "needle stops" through their appropriate holes, at this point take your time and be real careful because the dials are an EXTREMELY tight fit on the base of these needles (which are made of plastic and are very fragile) and the dials need to be pushed right "home"

(9) replace screws, and go to the next gauge and so on

(10) I slid all the speedhut dial cables throught the hole for the main dash connector and reasembled the dash

(11) put a slice in the thinnest part of the main cable boot on the wiring harness (to allow room for the speedhut dial cables ) then connect the main cable back to the dash, sliding the speedhut dial cables through the boot

(12) tape up the sliced area in the boot

(13) connect up the speedhut dial cables to the invertor unit and mount the unit somewhere safe using zipp ties and or insulation tape

(14) connect the 12 volt power leads to the switched power cable that resides just above the right hand indicator inside the nose cone

(15) mount your "fader" unit where you want, I mounted mine on the centre plate of the handlebars

Helpful page
for nose cone removal
connection of 12volt power leads

 

[Rich]

I did it as well same way as them, here is a pic.

 

[SLEEPERBUSA]

Here's another hint.
When you replace the 2 screws on each guage that hold the face plates down, you will notice that it bends the face plate just a bit.
I went to Lowe's and bought some VERY small nylon washers and placed behind the face plates. It allows the screws to bottom out and not bend the face plate.

 

[SLEEPERBUSA]

Not a real good pic

 

[SLEEPERBUSA]

better pic