Ignition won’t turn on new battery

Appu1425

Registered
Hi all,
I have a 2016 hayabusa .
Recently I have been facing battery problem where in I got a new one to get it installed .
removed the old battery and tried replacing the new one on my own but the bike is totally out of power and ignition lights also won’t come on.

also tried jump start but no luck

please could someone advise if this is a relay or a fuse blow?
 
Hi all,
I have a 2016 hayabusa .
Recently I have been facing battery problem where in I got a new one to get it installed .
removed the old battery and tried replacing the new one on my own but the bike is totally out of power and ignition lights also won’t come on.

also tried jump start but no luck

please could someone advise if this is a relay or a fuse blow?
First thing to check is . . . is the positive (red) terminal connected to the positive battery terminal . . if yes, look at the main fuse (30amp) on the starter relay.
Will most likely be blown.
 
First thing to check is . . . is the positive (red) terminal connected to the positive battery terminal . . if yes, look at the main fuse (30amp) on the starter relay.
Will most likely be blown.
First thing to check is . . . is the positive (red) terminal connected to the positive battery terminal . . if yes, look at the main fuse (30amp) on the starter relay.
Will most likely be blown.
Hi thank you for your response..

yes I did check the terminals connections seems to be positioned accurately...

I am willing to know if this is just a fuse issue and I am just worried that nothing major has happend to the bike!

if this information is provided this would be useful
 
Some history is required. Was there any maintenance or changes to the bike in recent history? Are you the first owner? Are there any aftermarket accessories?

Also a fuse issue can be a continuing problem. If you find one blown, the cause needs to be figured out or it can likely blow again.
 
No the bike was recently serviced and due to lockdown from a month was unable to ride it!
No after market accessories on the bike..

I’m not sure if I connected the negative terminal first Instead of the positive terminal first while replacing the battery .

could this be a reason fr the fuse blow?
 
No the bike was recently serviced...

I’m not sure if I connected the negative terminal first Instead of the positive terminal first while replacing the battery .

could this be a reason fr the fuse blow?

Yes it was serviced? Then what was accessed during the maintenance may be suspect.

So the battery was dead predictably because it sat uncharged? Hopefully that would lead to a coincidence instead of a problem.

I do not know about blowing the fuse from a connect. Any opinions out there members? Without big sparks and serious life threatening events at the time, I would not think so.
 
Key on, switched to run, neutral, kickstand up, clutch in??? Might sound dumb but it’s the best place to start. Also as said before, check cables and fuse. Have you put a volt meter on new battery to determine if it has voltage?
 
Key on, switched to run, neutral, kickstand up, clutch in??? Might sound dumb but it’s the best place to start. Also as said before, check cables and fuse. Have you put a volt meter on new battery to determine if it has voltage?
Thank you for your response ..
Have followed all the steps u have mentioned key , switches , neutral but the ignition lights , gauge won’t turn up
voltage on battery checked has 12v required

what cables do I need to check?
Could you mention those pls
 
I do not know about blowing the fuse from a connect. Any opinions out there members? Without big sparks and serious life threatening events at the time, I would not think so.
When I remove a battery, I disconnect negative first and then positive. When I install a battery, I connect positive first and then negative. I always thought the reason for this procedure was to eliminate electrical arcing that could ignite gasoline fumes. I've often noticed a small arc can still happen when I connect or disconnect the negative cable.

I don't see how connecting either battery cable first would damage the bike provided a spark doesn't cause an explosion or a fire.

voltage on battery checked has 12v required
OK I have been criticized for invoking information about my ZX-14 on a Hayabusa forum but here I go again.... my ZX-14 has a volt meter on the instrument cluster. My ZX-14 won't start at 12v and it has a very hard time starting at 12.5v. The optimum battery voltage on that bike is 14v and that's where it's at when the engine runs. After sitting a while, the ZX-14's battery voltage can go down to 13.5 or maybe even 13 but if it gets below 12, it definitely won't start.
 
I keep my battery on a tender over winter storage. When I put the tender in charge mode before installing the battery, the tender won't bring the voltage up to 14v but it brings it up to at least 13v.
 
Have followed all the steps u have mentioned key , switches , neutral but the ignition lights , gauge won’t turn up
voltage on battery checked has 12v required

what cables do I need to check?
Could you mention those pls

Appu, as @Mythos alluded to, a charged battery is at 12.8 volts, not 12 volts. 12 volts is dead. Do you have a charger? A battery takes 24 hours+ to charge from 12 volts.

When I remove a battery, I disconnect negative first and then positive. When I install a battery, I connect positive first and then negative. I always thought the reason for this procedure was to eliminate electrical arcing that could ignite gasoline fumes. I've often noticed a small arc can still happen when I connect or disconnect the negative cable.

I don't see how connecting either battery cable first would damage the bike provided a spark doesn't cause an explosion or a fire.

Yes that is right, despite the ubiquitous rumors there is no difference in spark creation with regards to the order of connection. Completing the circuit will spark, using any order. That is simply electricity for you.

The creation of hydrogen during battery charging is the initiative for spark prevention. But notice when jump starting (not a bike, NEVER A BIKE PEOPLE) the recommendation is using the dead car's frame as far from the battery as possible, because a spark will inevitably be created, so we create it far from the hydrogen gas rather than using the closer battery negative terminal.

Gasoline can ignite from a spark but it it supposed to be fully contained in the first place. But also it really requires a high voltage or massive spark. When we see gas pumps go up in flames from people brushing against their seats and touching the pump handle, that is 10-20000 volts of static, creating a very long spark. I do not know the exact reasoning but can assume that the surface area of that spark is a big deal, perhaps combined with the huge voltage potential, compared to a micro-spark generated by connecting a 12V battery. Of course I have no interest in doing personal proof with a pan of exposed gasoline...

Shorting is the significant issue above and beyond the spark that the connection inherently creates. Your procedure that you know because you are a professional accomplishes this: Connect the positive. Now create the accident. Drop a wrench from battery + to frame. Nothing happens because the electricity stored in the battery does not yet have a path. It cannot return from the + to the - battery terminal

Now connect the battery incorrectly. Connect the negative first. Create the accident and OOPS drop a wrench from battery + to the frame. The - terminal is connected to the frame so this act completes the circuit and allows the battery's 260 amps to weld the wrench to the vehicle, melting or blowing up the battery, or killing the person who is still holding the wrench.

I keep my battery on a tender over winter storage. When I put the tender in charge mode before installing the battery, the tender won't bring the voltage up to 14v but it brings it up to at least 13v.

The smart electronics detected that the battery is still charged and so it goes immediately to float mode. I am a bit astounded at how long these motorsports batteries stay at full. In cool weather, for several weeks! Maybe it is because the motorcycle is not using power when off like the stupid cars are doing nowadays. Or maybe the motorsport batteries really have some nifty tech and are built for the condition of not using boats and motorcycles often. You tell me.
 
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I am a bit astounded at how long these motorsports batteries stay at full. In cool weather, for several weeks! Maybe it is because the motorcycle is not using power when off like the stupid cars are doing nowadays. Or maybe the motorsport batteries really have some nifty tech and are built for the condition of not using boats and motorcycles often. You tell me.
I think it's the difference between the old lead-acid technology and the new lightweight tech. I had my Shorai in the bike without a tender all winter the first year I used it. It still started the bike. After 8 years, it doesn't hold a sufficient charge for much more than a week but the fact it has lasted 8 years without completely dying is pretty amazing.
 
Appu, as @Mythos alluded to, a charged battery is at 12.8 volts, not 12 volts. 12 volts is dead. Do you have a charger? A battery takes 24 hours+ to charge from 12 volts.



Yes that is right, despite the ubiquitous rumors there is no difference in spark creation with regards to the order of connection. Completing the circuit will spark, using any order. That is simply electricity for you.

The creation of hydrogen during battery charging is the initiative for spark prevention. But notice when jump starting (not a bike, NEVER A BIKE PEOPLE) the recommendation is using the dead car's frame as far from the battery as possible, because a spark will inevitably be created, so we create it far from the hydrogen gas rather than using the closer battery negative terminal.

Gasoline can ignite from a spark but it it supposed to be fully contained in the first place. But also it really requires a high voltage or massive spark. When we see gas pumps go up in flames from people brushing against their seats and touching the pump handle, that is 10-20000 volts of static, creating a very long spark. I do not know the exact reasoning but can assume that the surface area of that spark is a big deal, perhaps combined with the huge voltage potential, compared to a micro-spark generated by connecting a 12V battery. Of course I have no interest in doing personal proof with a pan of exposed gasoline...

Shorting is the significant issue above and beyond the spark that the connection inherently creates. Your procedure that you know because you are a professional accomplishes this: Connect the positive. Now create the accident. Drop a wrench from battery + to frame. Nothing happens because the electricity stored in the battery does not yet have a path. It cannot return from the + to the - battery terminal

Now connect the battery incorrectly. Connect the negative first. Create the accident and OOPS drop a wrench from battery + to the frame. The - terminal is connected to the frame so this act completes the circuit and allows the battery's 260 amps to weld the wrench to the vehicle, melting or blowing up the battery, or killing the person who is still holding the wrench.



The smart electronics detected that the battery is still charged and so it goes immediately to float mode. I am a bit astounded at how long these motorsports batteries stay at full. In cool weather, for several weeks! Maybe it is because the motorcycle is not using power when off like the stupid cars are doing nowadays. Or maybe the motorsport batteries really have some nifty tech and are built for the condition of not using boats and motorcycles often. You tell me.
Thank you for the detailed insight !!
I did check my battery now once again it shows 12.8 now after a little charging done

but I think this is enough atleast to have the ignition turn on with the gauge response !!
This isn’t happening :( :(
 
Me and Appu are thinking this is the main fuse. If NOTHING comes on at all when he turns the key on, no headlights or anything at all, that's gotta be a main fuse if the battery is connected and has a reasonable charge....... right? Is that main fuse under the seat?
 

I did my best looking under the seats of my bike but the best I have is the thread above. It seems that the main fuse is on the left side of the bike and requires the tail section to be removed.
Correct, remove the tail section to access the starter relay with the main fuse sitting in the top of the relay.
 
Hi all,

Good news after checking found the issue was with the ignition relay fuse

had a replacement one on the bike itself installed it and finally she is Alive

thank you all for the suggestions and inputs really helped me a lot

stay safe ride safe ✌️

8FD190DE-5268-4644-B99D-044032D28F12.jpeg
 
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