I need help finding something sticky

jch364

Registered
ok so some time ago i had an Alzheimer's moment or maybe it was dyslexia and i tightened my oil drain bolt instead of loosening it to drain the oil. Above pun intended.... or maybe not? Anyway when i got it fixed the drain plug was re-drilled and a different drain plug was put in and it does not have a magnetic end to it. I tried taking it to a couple of different places to see what it came off of and to get it replaced with one that is magnetic but i had no luck. So i bought one of those earth magnets. Its a cylinder style and only about an inch in diameter and i need to glue it to the bottom of the drain pan behind the drain plug to catch the crud the filter misses.
The problem i have is i simply cant find anything that will work. I tried JB weld high temp and its crap. the vibration just broke it loose. Thankfully the freaking magnet has such a pull on it that it just slipped back a little and grabbed some metal and was still there after the ride. I cant find any glue stuff that seems to be able to handle high temps. Im not sure exactly what i need but im getting frustrated. I would think there would be some good cement i could use that would handle the heat and vibration without a problem. maybe im just looking in the wrong places. I dont want to loose the magnet cause it cost me like $30 cause i got it with a little over 100lbs of power.. powerful little sucker ill tell you that. anyway any ideas would be appreceated.
 
Magnets shatter/chip easy so I don't know a real way to mechanically connect the two. A quick search on my break got to this. http://www.masterbond.com I'm not sure if they sell small amounts but some of the info sounds promising.
 
A couple of things -

Have you been finding metal on the old drain plug on previous oil changes?
Usually any metal left over from the machining process should show up pretty quickly like within the first 2-3 oil changes.
after that if you kept seeing metal there is a problem. So IMO if there has been NO metal showing up on the old plug then do you really need a magnet?

I stripped my threads out (which is common) and ended up using a double over-sized ½" drain plug which I believe has a magnet.
So depending on what size you have with the one without a magnet, you may or may not be able to just use a double over sized one.

One other choice is to buy a new oil pan and start over.
 
If the magnet has such a pull, why not get a drain plug made from stainless steel and not aluminum, so it attracts a magnet. Because your magnet has such a strong pull, the magnet will stay "glued" to the plug.
 
A couple of things -

Have you been finding metal on the old drain plug on previous oil changes?
Usually any metal left over from the machining process should show up pretty quickly like within the first 2-3 oil changes.
after that if you kept seeing metal there is a problem. So IMO if there has been NO metal showing up on the old plug then do you really need a magnet?

I stripped my threads out (which is common) and ended up using a double over-sized ½" drain plug which I believe has a magnet.
So depending on what size you have with the one without a magnet, you may or may not be able to just use a double over sized one.

One other choice is to buy a new oil pan and start over.

My exact thoughts..
 
Drill a hole on the inside of the aluminum plug where the magnet sits just a hair smaller. Glue in the hole and tap her in there.
 
it may not be a big deal .. there has never been metal in it i just thought that you were supposed to always have one.
 
Take a magnet from a pocket screwdriver, drill a hole slightly in your drain plug, slightly smaller than the magnet, press in the magnet. Problem solved.
 
Stripping the threads in the oil pan seems to be pretty common. Has anybody removed the pan, added aluminum to the drain plug hole, machined off the excess and retapped the threads for the drain plug? If the pan can be removed from the engine without having to remove the engine, and the pans can be repaired reliably for a low cost, this might be a good solution. I have a lot of experience TIG welding aluminum and run a machine shop. I've repaired a lot of aluminum heads, crankcases, engine cases, etc. The trickiest steps are getting the parts clean and oil-free then performing the welding in steps to prevent distortion from over-heating. If someoen wants to send me a damaged pan, I'll develop a repair process, repair it and return it to you. If it is as straight forward as I think it should be, I should be able to repair the damaged pans for a low cost. Just an idea to try to help out members of the org. I would be happy to try one.
 
Stripping the threads in the oil pan seems to be pretty common. Has anybody removed the pan, added aluminum to the drain plug hole, machined off the excess and retapped the threads for the drain plug? If the pan can be removed from the engine without having to remove the engine, and the pans can be repaired reliably for a low cost, this might be a good solution. I have a lot of experience TIG welding aluminum and run a machine shop. I've repaired a lot of aluminum heads, crankcases, engine cases, etc. The trickiest steps are getting the parts clean and oil-free then performing the welding in steps to prevent distortion from over-heating. If someoen wants to send me a damaged pan, I'll develop a repair process, repair it and return it to you. If it is as straight forward as I think it should be, I should be able to repair the damaged pans for a low cost. Just an idea to try to help out members of the org. I would be happy to try one.

Thanks for trying to help. - HOWEVER when I stripped mine, I went and got a double over sized ½" plug and the problem was fixed.
Your right the engine doesn't have to come out but the exhaust has to be dropped. Then if you do it right you would need new gaskets
for the exhaust and oil pan.

Just getting a new plug is about $5. Shipping the oil pan to you would cost that much alone.
Not to mention all the work of removing the exhaust and oil pan and then reassembly etc.

I wonder if the Gen II are prone to stripping like the Gen I are?
 
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