HW's Inaugural Maintenance

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

I just heard the sonic boom from a meteor. I am unclear as to how this will affect my project. Stay Tuned.

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

[Bumblebee]

View attachment 1711007

That's an awesome picture.....

I just read about the meteorite.....pretty interesting read.....

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

It is in the 60's outside and I see several nice days coming up, although tomorrow will be cold. Time to continue work.

I went out to the bike and removed the master cylinder/ABS line. I got it out in one piece, avoiding stressing the sensor wire near the ABS. I put a plug in the ABS unit.

I am wondering if it is possible to torque the ABS nut. It seemed "extremely tight" by spec. Steel on steel, and just wrench it until it screams? I cannot see using a torque wrench in there.

I was gauging the fit of the new line. Ninety degrees is going to be a bit tight. I wonder if all of those using a ninety degree adapter were eliminating the ABS. Forty-five would have been better for the stock setup methinks. I suppose I will fit it and see if it stresses the other lines.

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

Corsa Corta 19 - Should the hydraulic line go in front of the electrical conduit, toward the tire or on the rider's side of the conduit? The hole in the master is currently just underneath the conduit. The level of the reservoir makes me guess that I have to rotate the master forward and bring the hole backwards toward the rider, behind the conduit.

I thought I had the lever angle pretty closet to the angle of the clutch. This fitting is very close and seems it will allow no adjustment for rider preference. I think I had read someone, perhaps @fallenarch post such so it was not necessarily news.

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

Corsa Corta 19 - Should the hydraulic line go in front of the electrical conduit, toward the tire or on the rider's side of the conduit?

I found that the hydraulic line must go in front of the conduit, ergo with the brake lever somewhat high.

The brake lines are connected. I needed to check the diagrams. It appears the curved connectors back up against metal piece sticking out of the caliper. That must be a purposeful guide. I am unsure how mine are rotated so I will check it. At the ABS my routing differs from Core Moto. Why did they take the master line high over a vacuum hose? I snuck it underneath. I will need to reconsider the config and lookup other photos here for opinions.

Wow! Almost there! I cannot wait to put the front together to get the bike back down and remove the shock.

I am supposed to receive word on two jobs. When I begin work, I worry the bike project will stall again and will not be back together for this season. We shall see.

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

Core Moto includes grommets in the same locations but they are large and do not seem to fully fit into retainers. I am able to get them in say 3/4 of the way and the edge of the clip can grip onto the ridge in the grommet. I am guessing that is the specified method. Their photo shows the bare line going through the side frame retainer even though there is a grommet for that spot. The directive does not seem consistent and has confused me.

Does anyone have a photo of the location of the free floating dual clip that sits just inside the frame and holds the master cylinder line and sensor line? I think I recall the base being toward the rider and clips facing forward. I do have concern about that area as I think the lines rub the frame as they enter. Regarding protection of a flexible line this spot does not quite make sense to me. I do not want to create a threat that will rub through the lines.

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

I finished routing the front lines, set all of the banjo bolts to fourteen lb-ft, filled the system, and purged it. There are no leaks. The master lever is pretty firm. I may purge the master again tomorrow.

I may need to activate the ABS on the road to purge it. I do not think that I want to loosen the pump fittings and clean all around and below the ABS pump (again.)

Wondering how long I can use this bottle of new brake fluid.

It was definitely good to do this job with no fairings on the bike. I will probably leave it stripped until I get the bike fully warmed up and have a test ride. Although I am unclear if I can activate the ABS on a local run.

I am not crazy about the routing. The master line is pressing against what I think is the fuel rail. I may tape the line at that point to monitor any abrasion of the tape. The master line should probably be two inches longer due to the riser and Helibars but advice I have seen indicated that the stock length would be okay. I can see (painfully) upgrading the master line some time, again, if any issues arise.

The master line has a second large grommet. I have no idea of its purpose. Core Moto only shows the one P-Clip attachment on the right side of the frame. Perhaps I can use that as a spacer near the rubbing point.

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

I clamped the brake handle down and put the air-box back on. I put a dab of Sil-Glyde on the vacuum hose fittings. Some of those were a challenge getting off.

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

Before reinstalling it, I opened the air-box (another first). I bought the bike with 300 miles and had it serviced around (I think) 1000 miles. It has something like 2-3k miles now. (I cannot recall the year that I last saw the odometer lit up...) The box and filter are spotless. Save the new filter-in-package for another day.

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

I finally unpacked the fork which I had rebuilt a long time ago. The old springs, seals, valves, and bolts I had left attached were all heat sealed in individual plastic packing. I forgot the details of disassembly and just cannot wait to come across the reason why the steering has to be unbolted to slip the fork legs back in.

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

The fork and wheel are installed but I still must mount the calipers.

The Core Moto master line is rubbing the fork when turning left. Any worry about this? Do you have any running of the throttle or brake lines on your stock bike? I get the feeling I will be replacing the right fork stanchion in the future due to these changes.

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

The Core Moto master line is rubbing the fork when turning left. Any worry about this? Do you have any running of the throttle or brake lines on your stock bike? I get the feeling I will be replacing the right fork stanchion in the future due to these changes.

I took another look at this. It seems that if I zip tie all the lines and attach them to the top electrical conduit, that may keep it free of the fork. There is enough length (at least there) in the brake and throttle lines but they are naturally shaped downward a bit.

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

What is the purpose of this part?

I received two of these hex standoffs from the suspension tuner. Is this from the fork or otherwise used in fork servicing? I have this weird vision of standoffs on one of my bikes and concern that it goes somewhere. However this may be the migraines talking.

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

The calipers are mounted and I slipped the fender on. Fun times, covering the bolts that have to go past the fork and installing the cable stay once that is past the fork. Perhaps I should have assembled and inserted the fender before installing the second fork, but admittedly I was aware of that choice at the time and thought "naw."

Now that all the cable stays are in place I can see excess slack in the brake cable. Reaching past the wheel to feed cable back while holding the retainer that is just inside the frame...ugh. I hope I do not have to remove the air-box again to slip my hands down there.

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

With two bikes I have zero working batteries. Yuasa batteries have died on schedule at three years. I know these sport touring bikes boil the batteries but I shall try another brand and see how it goes. I ordered one MBTX12UHD from Motobatt.

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

What is the purpose of this part?
View attachment 1711787

These are standoffs for the reflectors. They are not in the fender fiche and not in the fork fiche, but in the headlamp fiche! LOL

Thanks Suzuki. Communists.