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Does not the single screw on each side go through two clamps?
Each TB boot has it's own clamp, and the inner 2 can be hard to see.
Does not the single screw on each side go through two clamps?
Does not the single screw on each side go through two clamps?
Each TB boot has it's own clamp, and the inner 2 can be hard to see.

LOL but I suspect you already took the air box off by now.![]()
Good choice.No I paused due to the cold and stayed inside and assembled the new fairings
Each duct has it's own T-body clamp but they don't all have independent screws. From my photos of my Gen2, there is one long screw that tightens the two LH T-boby clamps and there is a single other long screw that tightens the RH T-body clamps.
Don't take the screw out, loosen it. There is a spacer between the closure of each clamp and if you pull the screw out, the spacer's going to fall and possibly get lost. There's no need to pull the screw. It has plenty of extra threads to loosen it completely. Observe torque specs for the clamp screws. My Kawasaki's seemed ridiculously light but I found the clamp closures bend if tighten more than the suggested few inch lb. Also, the rubber duct could deform. I'm sure the spacer is to help prevent over tightening but I'd still stick with what the SM suggests for torque on these.
LOL but I suspect you already took the air box off by now.![]()
Maybe you've tried but if you need a hole drilled that precisely and you can't use a drill press, start with the smallest bit you have, drill a pilot hole and work up to the diameter bit you need to use. With wood, you could go very incrementally. Metal, the bit probably would bind if it were just a bit larger than the pilot hole.I had problems one, with standard bits walking on the wood and two, the circular saw walking.
...at least I do. "Always the years. Always the love. Always the hours." I don't know if that's from the book or just the movie but that quote always comes to me when I realized I just spent a whole day working on something I love. I weighed my 14R on bathroom scales tonight. It took a few hours. ...just to weigh the front and back of a bike. Fuel tank full to the neck, 600.16 lbs.Maybe you've tried but if you need a hole drilled that precisely and you can't use a drill press, start with the smallest bit you have, drill a pilot hole and work up to the diameter bit you need to use.
I weighed my 14R on bathroom scales tonight. It took a few hours. ...just to weigh the front and back of a bike. Fuel tank full to the neck, 600.16 lbs.
Lots of landfills and scrapyards have very accurate large scales that you also can weigh your bike on...Maybe you've tried but if you need a hole drilled that precisely and you can't use a drill press, start with the smallest bit you have, drill a pilot hole and work up to the diameter bit you need to use. With wood, you could go very incrementally. Metal, the bit probably would bind if it were just a bit larger than the pilot hole.
As for the circle saw wandering, that shouldn't happen if you clamp down a straightedge. I think you'll get it with a little practice. In the meantime, plane a/o sand the extra material off. It's time consuming but if you need it fairly precise, work with what you have. DIY projects always take ten times longer for me because I usually don't know what I'm doing. It's quicker the next time. ....just don't go too quick when you think you know it because that's when you're going to screw up....at least I do. "Always the years. Always the love. Always the hours." I don't know if that's from the book or just the movie but that quote always comes to me when I realized I just spent a whole day working on something I love. I weighed my 14R on bathroom scales tonight. It took a few hours. ...just to weigh the front and back of a bike. Fuel tank full to the neck, 600.16 lbs.
Put the scale in the grass adjoining the driveway. Shim it to be even with the driveway considering that the ground will get compressed slightly. Move the front tire onto the scale. Record the result or pay a neighbor $5 to read it for you. Turn the bike around. Roll the rear tire onto it. Record. Wannabe's Super-Accurate Total Time Estimate: 7 minutes.
Lots of landfills and scrapyards have very accurate large scales that you also can weigh your bike on...
600lbs seems high for that bike as it's supposed to be on par with the Hayabusa.....
Our landfills and scrap yards will let you weigh stuff for nothing if you ask them...I don't mean to jack the thread but...
The key element is someone to read the scale. Yeah that would have saved a lot of time. I had a friend lined up for the job but I didn't want to bug him. I know how to do it myself now so no bugging anyone.
We have a junkyard here with a scale. I'm sure I could weigh the bike on it if I paid the disposal fee. I'd probably not throw it away though!
I was getting a lot of different readings on the front weight because of technical issues. I weighed the front again tonight and got three consistent readings in a row so I called it good. 599.2 lbs, total. That's six pounds heavier than Kaw specs but I filled the gas to the gills. So I think the claimed 593 lb wet weight is about right on.
Lots of landfills and scrapyards have very accurate large scales that you also can weigh your bike on...
600lbs seems high for that bike as it's supposed to be on par with the Hayabusa.....
The key element is someone to read the scale. Yeah that would have saved a lot of time. I had a friend lined up for the job but I didn't want to bug him. I know how to do it myself now so no bugging anyone.![]()