HW's Inaugural Maintenance

Hayabusa Wannabe

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I opened the final replacement plastic part. The giant boxes and parts have been taking up massive space in my home office but it is joyful to see it clearing up.

I unboxed the new fender and transferred the spring-like stay over to it. I was trying to recall how badly it was damaged in the side stand tip. I looked over it multiple times and am reminded that it was barely damaged. There is one small part that was ground up but not even past the paint. No matter for the cost. I was excessively angry and frustrated, particularly with my tech who I had informed of the side stand problem, that I vowed that I would figure out how all of this goes together and make it all showroom new by myself.

Mythos

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Does not the single screw on each side go through two clamps?

Each TB boot has it's own clamp, and the inner 2 can be hard to see.

Each duct has it's own T-body clamp but they don't all have independent screws. From my photos of my Gen2, there is one long screw that tightens the two LH T-boby clamps and there is a single other long screw that tightens the RH T-body clamps.

Don't take the screw out, loosen it. There is a spacer between the closure of each clamp and if you pull the screw out, the spacer's going to fall and possibly get lost. There's no need to pull the screw. It has plenty of extra threads to loosen it completely. Observe torque specs for the clamp screws. My Kawasaki's seemed ridiculously light but I found the clamp closures bend if tighten more than the suggested few inch lb. Also, the rubber duct could deform. I'm sure the spacer is to help prevent over tightening but I'd still stick with what the SM suggests for torque on these.

LOL but I suspect you already took the air box off by now. :laugh:

sixpack577

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Each duct has it's own T-body clamp but they don't all have independent screws. From my photos of my Gen2, there is one long screw that tightens the two LH T-boby clamps and there is a single other long screw that tightens the RH T-body clamps.

Don't take the screw out, loosen it. There is a spacer between the closure of each clamp and if you pull the screw out, the spacer's going to fall and possibly get lost. There's no need to pull the screw. It has plenty of extra threads to loosen it completely. Observe torque specs for the clamp screws. My Kawasaki's seemed ridiculously light but I found the clamp closures bend if tighten more than the suggested few inch lb. Also, the rubber duct could deform. I'm sure the spacer is to help prevent over tightening but I'd still stick with what the SM suggests for torque on these.

LOL but I suspect you already took the air box off by now. :laugh:

Sorry, my memory fails me...been a few years since I've worked on a Gen2

Hayabusa Wannabe

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We do not have a vise yet at this house and so this has been on the obvious list. It is on the bike list to replace the cam set in the clutch with the Brock's hub, requiring torquing of the 6 bolts. That need resulted in working out a vise setup at this time.

I purchased the Work IQ vise and a 48" pine stair. I cut the stair in half, stacked it, and purchased shorter bolts for this configuration. I investigated how to make a pocket hole and purchased a 3/4" Forstner bit. I had problems one, with standard bits walking on the wood and two, the circular saw walking. I had thought to get a brad tip bit but figured it should not be a problem for this. Brad tips are now on the wish list now as I have always hated standard bits for wood. Regarding the circular saw, I cannot cut straight with it. Even butting it against a straightedge, while it cannot go that direction, it manages to move away from it. There is no room for a table saw so long-term I am unsure what to do other than being disappointed with every project that requires cutting.

I will clamp this to my work table when I need it, and put it aside when I want to see a nice broad tabletop with no interference.

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Mythos

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I had problems one, with standard bits walking on the wood and two, the circular saw walking.
Maybe you've tried but if you need a hole drilled that precisely and you can't use a drill press, start with the smallest bit you have, drill a pilot hole and work up to the diameter bit you need to use. With wood, you could go very incrementally. Metal, the bit probably would bind if it were just a bit larger than the pilot hole.

As for the circle saw wandering, that shouldn't happen if you clamp down a straightedge. I think you'll get it with a little practice. In the meantime, plane a/o sand the extra material off. It's time consuming but if you need it fairly precise, work with what you have. DIY projects always take ten times longer for me because I usually don't know what I'm doing. It's quicker the next time. ....just don't go too quick when you think you know it because that's when you're going to screw up. :D ...at least I do. "Always the years. Always the love. Always the hours." I don't know if that's from the book or just the movie but that quote always comes to me when I realized I just spent a whole day working on something I love. I weighed my 14R on bathroom scales tonight. It took a few hours. ...just to weigh the front and back of a bike. Fuel tank full to the neck, 600.16 lbs.

Hayabusa Wannabe

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Maybe you've tried but if you need a hole drilled that precisely and you can't use a drill press, start with the smallest bit you have, drill a pilot hole and work up to the diameter bit you need to use.

Yes I did. The pilot bit must have slipped. I should have fitted the vise early on, after the pilot holes, as a check.

I found a nice guide system for circular saws at the big box store. It is $99. That is probably a good move.

Hayabusa Wannabe

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I weighed my 14R on bathroom scales tonight. It took a few hours. ...just to weigh the front and back of a bike. Fuel tank full to the neck, 600.16 lbs.

Put the scale in the grass adjoining the driveway. Shim it to be even with the driveway considering that the ground will get compressed slightly. Move the front tire onto the scale. Record the result or pay a neighbor $5 to read it for you. Turn the bike around. Roll the rear tire onto it. Record. Wannabe's Super-Accurate Total Time Estimate: 7 minutes.

Bumblebee

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Maybe you've tried but if you need a hole drilled that precisely and you can't use a drill press, start with the smallest bit you have, drill a pilot hole and work up to the diameter bit you need to use. With wood, you could go very incrementally. Metal, the bit probably would bind if it were just a bit larger than the pilot hole.

As for the circle saw wandering, that shouldn't happen if you clamp down a straightedge. I think you'll get it with a little practice. In the meantime, plane a/o sand the extra material off. It's time consuming but if you need it fairly precise, work with what you have. DIY projects always take ten times longer for me because I usually don't know what I'm doing. It's quicker the next time. ....just don't go too quick when you think you know it because that's when you're going to screw up. :D ...at least I do. "Always the years. Always the love. Always the hours." I don't know if that's from the book or just the movie but that quote always comes to me when I realized I just spent a whole day working on something I love. I weighed my 14R on bathroom scales tonight. It took a few hours. ...just to weigh the front and back of a bike. Fuel tank full to the neck, 600.16 lbs.
Lots of landfills and scrapyards have very accurate large scales that you also can weigh your bike on...

600lbs seems high for that bike as it's supposed to be on par with the Hayabusa.....

Mythos

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I don't mean to jack the thread but...

Put the scale in the grass adjoining the driveway. Shim it to be even with the driveway considering that the ground will get compressed slightly. Move the front tire onto the scale. Record the result or pay a neighbor $5 to read it for you. Turn the bike around. Roll the rear tire onto it. Record. Wannabe's Super-Accurate Total Time Estimate: 7 minutes.

The key element is someone to read the scale. Yeah that would have saved a lot of time. I had a friend lined up for the job but I didn't want to bug him. I know how to do it myself now so no bugging anyone. :D

Lots of landfills and scrapyards have very accurate large scales that you also can weigh your bike on...

600lbs seems high for that bike as it's supposed to be on par with the Hayabusa.....

We have a junkyard here with a scale. I'm sure I could weigh the bike on it if I paid the disposal fee. I'd probably not throw it away though! :laugh:

I was getting a lot of different readings on the front weight because of technical issues. I weighed the front again tonight and got three consistent readings in a row so I called it good. 599.2 lbs, total. That's six pounds heavier than Kaw specs but I filled the gas to the gills. So I think the claimed 593 lb wet weight is about right on.

Bumblebee

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I don't mean to jack the thread but...



The key element is someone to read the scale. Yeah that would have saved a lot of time. I had a friend lined up for the job but I didn't want to bug him. I know how to do it myself now so no bugging anyone. :D



We have a junkyard here with a scale. I'm sure I could weigh the bike on it if I paid the disposal fee. I'd probably not throw it away though! :laugh:

I was getting a lot of different readings on the front weight because of technical issues. I weighed the front again tonight and got three consistent readings in a row so I called it good. 599.2 lbs, total. That's six pounds heavier than Kaw specs but I filled the gas to the gills. So I think the claimed 593 lb wet weight is about right on.
Our landfills and scrap yards will let you weigh stuff for nothing if you ask them...

By that reckoning the weight of your bike seems to be spot on....I didn't realize it was so heavy even full of fuel....

sixpack577

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Lots of landfills and scrapyards have very accurate large scales that you also can weigh your bike on...

600lbs seems high for that bike as it's supposed to be on par with the Hayabusa.....

This^
Concrete factories too
We have one local, and my friend who owns the '18 Gsxr, his cousin runs that part of it...so easy to ride in, park on the scale, and then go in and ask what they weigh.
Most truck-stops have a Cat-Scale too, and you can pay to weigh.

Hayabusa Wannabe

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The key element is someone to read the scale. Yeah that would have saved a lot of time. I had a friend lined up for the job but I didn't want to bug him. I know how to do it myself now so no bugging anyone. :D

My gut was to respond to not be so stubborn, that this is what friends are for. Then I realized that I will rarely call anyone. I would have to be stuck under a rock, and for a few days, starving, dying, before finally reaching out for help. I get it.

This can help to take video autonomously. The key for using a small tripod rather than being burdened with carrying a full-size one is the RAM-B-337U, Ram Mounts 1/4"-20 female thread. Larger tripods and prosumer and up cameras use a 3/8"-16 bolt. But this setup is outright tiny and very convenient to transport and use.

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sixpack577

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I somehow ended up with 3 regular bathroom scales in the basement...and 2 upstairs(women).
But, if you buy 3 cheap bathroom scales, you can place one in front of each tire, roll the bike on them, and kick the 3rd one under the kickstand with your foot(on concrete or asphalt) and it will give you a pretty accurate reading of the actual bike weight.
Just make sure they go above 250lbs(the others I have go to I think 320lbs?) as I had one continuously say 'err'...and it did the same with a friend who is close to 260 standing on it.
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