HW's Inaugural Maintenance

[Bumblebee]

WAIT A MINUTE!!!
HA!!!
I have an electric impact too...and I had completely forgotten that until you just mentioned it!!!
It was just another 'empty' case in the stack.
I remember having to borrow a battery impact now, as this corded one wouldn't fit into the space I needed(crankshaft pulley bolt on a Toyota), and so my brain apparently filed it in the dust bin.
This losing your mind stuff is Fun!
I Wonder what elsle I have?!


lmao

View attachment 1673978

It's like a treasure hunt....

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

...so the special people still work on bikes...unfortunately.

It is highly likely the wheel has not been touched. So factory tight methinks.

 

[sixpack577]

It is highly likely the wheel has not been touched. So factory tight methinks.

My friend's '18 Gsxr1k has lived with me since new, and I have always done all of the work, with the exception of one front tire.
He rode to the dealer to price tires, as he was going to order a set.
They had one front tire(Q3) in stock, and sold it to him at a price he couldn't refuse, including mounting it on the spot(I forget the price, but it was a great deal). I mounted the rear tire when it came in a few days later.
Well, next tire change I did, and when I went to remove the front wheel(calipers already off and bungee corded out of the way)...I couldn't get a full rotation of the wheel, no matter how hard I spun it.
The axle nut is 70-72' lbs, but it had to have been on the verge of being stripped, as where the 4 pinch bolts, which I forget the exact torque, but is low, around 12 or 14' lbs.
My friend chewed out the dealer over it, and rightfully so.
I bet I have seen a dozen wheels like that over the years.
And most of those wheels were probably not done at a dealer, but just by more people that don't use torque wrenches...

 

[jellyrug]

My friend's '18 Gsxr1k has lived with me since new, and I have always done all of the work, with the exception of one front tire.
He rode to the dealer to price tires, as he was going to order a set.
They had one front tire(Q3) in stock, and sold it to him at a price he couldn't refuse, including mounting it on the spot(I forget the price, but it was a great deal). I mounted the rear tire when it came in a few days later.
Well, next tire change I did, and when I went to remove the front wheel(calipers already off and bungee corded out of the way)...I couldn't get a full rotation of the wheel, no matter how hard I spun it.
The axle nut is 70-72' lbs, but it had to have been on the verge of being stripped, as where the 4 pinch bolts, which I forget the exact torque, but is low, around 12 or 14' lbs.
My friend chewed out the dealer over it, and rightfully so.
I bet I have seen a dozen wheels like that over the years.
And most of those wheels were probably not done at a dealer, but just by more people that don't use torque wrenches...

When you wrench a whole lot, like every day for a number of years, you get to a point where a torque wrench is reserved for a few critical areas, such as cylinder heads, crankshaft/conrod nuts where a thread stretch is part of the securing procedure, so they never work loose. The rest is actually more accurate by feel.

Some of the folks who write manuals have actually never held a wrench. (Ask me how I know that.)

There are some fasteners which are critical and the torque values are determined by careful testing. The rest is just a rough calculation, based on bolt diameter and thread pitch. Then there is the safety factor built in, should the bolt or nut be lubricated. In theory, a successful fastener torque is designed to stretch the threads towards their upper elastic yield limit. With some manufacturers, your connection rods for instance, the bolts actually go slightly past the elastic yield limit, meaning the threads are permanently stretched and they cannot be re-used during a rebuild, have to be replaced and fastened with a dedicated procedure. The rest really does not matter.

I for one have never had the confidence to use a torque wrench on the Hayabusa oil sump drain plug. I trust my hand and feeling senses a whole lot more.

All that said, I do not own a pneumatic wrench and if I had to use one, it would be only for dismantling.

 

[sixpack577]

When you wrench a whole lot, like every day for a number of years, you get to a point where a torque wrench is reserved for a few critical areas, such as cylinder heads, crankshaft/conrod nuts where a thread stretch is part of the securing procedure, so they never work loose. The rest is actually more accurate by feel.

Some of the folks who write manuals have actually never held a wrench. (Ask me how I know that.)

There are some fasteners which are critical and the torque values are determined by careful testing. The rest is just a rough calculation, based on bolt diameter and thread pitch. Then there is the safety factor built in, should the bolt or nut be lubricated. In theory, a successful fastener torque is designed to stretch the threads towards their upper elastic yield limit. With some manufacturers, your connection rods for instance, the bolts actually go slightly past the elastic yield limit, meaning the threads are permanently stretched and they cannot be re-used during a rebuild, have to be replaced and fastened with a dedicated procedure. The rest really does not matter.

I for one have never had the confidence to use a torque wrench on the Hayabusa oil sump drain plug. I trust my hand and feeling senses a whole lot more.

All that said, I do not own a pneumatic wrench and if I had to use one, it would be only for dismantling.

I agree on some fasteners tightened by feel, and drain plugs...but outside of the engine, I am torquing every wheel, brake, suspension and chasis bolt there is.
Had the idiot I described used a torque wrench...the front wheel would have spun a few rotations...like it did after I reassembled and torqued it...not a third of a turn with the axle nut as tight as it would go.
You need some degree of mechanical ability, and experience to know when something is tight enough...and too many 'mechanics' can't do that...

 

[jellyrug]

I agree on some fasteners tightened by feel, and drain plugs...but outside of the engine, I am torquing every wheel, brake, suspension and chasis bolt there is.
Had the idiot I described used a torque wrench...the front wheel would have spun a few rotations...like it did after I reassembled and torqued it...not a third of a turn with the axle nut as tight as it would go.
You need some degree of mechanical ability, and experience to know when something is tight enough...and too many 'mechanics' can't do that..

Trying to figure out, looking at the parts manual why you had an issue.

While over torque is a bad idea, that should not bind the bearings and stop the wheel from turning. That only applies to tapered roller bearings, such as we use on cars with older designs, not the Gixxer.

The Gixxer uses a 25X52X15 standard ball bearing with an external seal as standard. The fastening only puts tension on one bearing race, so there should be no effect by not torquing the wheel correctly.

You had something else going on there.

It's been a while since I have removed a front wheel, just don't ride enough, but I don't think I have missed anything, as the design is straight forward.

Apologies in advance, a lot of folks here hate me for posting facts, but sometimes it is hard not to respond to something which is simply not true.

 

[sixpack577]

Trying to figure out, looking at the parts manual why you had an issue.

While over torque is a bad idea, that should not bind the bearings and stop the wheel from turning. That only applies to tapered roller bearings, such as we use on cars with older designs, not the Gixxer.

The Gixxer uses a 25X52X15 standard ball bearing with an external seal as standard. The fastening only puts tension on one bearing race, so there should be no effect by not torquing the wheel correctly.

You had something else going on there.

It's been a while since I have removed a front wheel, just don't ride enough, but I don't think I have missed anything, as the design is straight forward.

Apologies in advance, a lot of folks here hate me for posting facts, but sometimes it is hard not to respond to something which is simply not true.

I get what you're saying, I understand side loading those bearings to the point of slowing them I would think would cause damahe to them, but, simply not true or not...it simply happened.
The spacers were correct, the forks aligned, and it assembled correctly, yet was too tight to spin.
I had to put a pipe on a breaker bar to break it loose...and I can break a 72' lb torqued nut with an 8" long 3/8 drive ratchet.
I later replaced the wheel bearings, which by all accounts seemed fine.

 

[jellyrug]

I get what you're saying, I understand side loading those bearings to the point of slowing them I would think would cause damahe to them, but, simply not true or not...it simply happened.
The spacers were correct, the forks aligned, and it assembled correctly, yet was too tight to spin.
I had to put a pipe on a breaker bar to break it loose...and I can break a 72' lb torqued nut with an 8" long 3/8 drive ratchet.
I later replaced the wheel bearings, which by all accounts seemed fine.

OK, I believe you. If the inner wheel hub and the two spacers are machined with the correct tolerances, that should not happen. The wheel nut would strip before that happens.

It is possible that there were after market parts in there, or Suzuki has those two spacers slightly above the tolerance limit in combined length.

Basically, the wheel nut has to be torqued enough to compress those two spacers within the Youngs Modulous stress strain relationship, to the extent where they are reduced in length, enough to take up all the bearing clearance.

That would take some tightening.

That mechanic should be fired.

I’m guessing, as I would have to have the parts in hand to be completely accurate, but in that configuration we normally allow a manufacturing tolerance for the two spacers together around 0.02mm

 

[sixpack577]

I agree he shouldn't be a 'mechanic'.
This what I had to use...vs what I normally use...

 

[kim windsor]

The tank is easy.
The 2 visible bolts in the front, lift it and prop it up, then you can see the vent lines and fuel line, as well as the 2 bolts that hold the hinged tank bracket down.
Pull the 2 vent hoses off, release the clip on the fuel hose disconnect and pull it off, then unbolt the hindged bracket and lift the tank off.
As for the amount of gas left in it, really depends upon how long it will sit.
Ethanol free gas will last a long time, at least the several months of winter.
You can remove the tank as is, if full is too heavy for you, then fill it up on the ground, since rust cant happen if no bare metal is exposed.
But, personally, I would leave the gallon in it, unless it has ethanol, then drain the tank and put a gallon of non ethanol in it.
If the tank will be off until you ride it again, I'de just pick up and shake the gas tank once every couple weeks, just to keep gas over the entire inside of the tank.
That is what I plan to do with my Gsxr gas tank, as it is at the powder coaters right now.
When I get it back, I'm going to put the fuel pump in, the cap on, and a gallon of ethanol free gas in it, and shake it up occasionally until I get the rest of the parts to start the bike in a couple months.

I run. Stay bill through entire system first

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

The wheel problem was only due to my incompetence. I loosened the right pinch bolts as the manual states but attempted to loosen the hex side, thinking that was the nut. Now that I see it I will never forget how it is built. Hopefully I did not twist and damage the axle.

For the nose cone the manual shows to remove a main connector and it appears they identify the white one. Somewhat vague but I think out of all of those wires I can follow wiring to the lights

The cabling on top of the nose cone screws is extremely firm and does not move. I have not tried yet but I suppose one must just squeeze the screwdriver in there.

I mentioned an oil change above but I am striving to get the fork out first.

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

I found hints here on the forum as to what the vague manual shows. I took the headlight connector off, just the intake screws, and realized the inner panels on the nose go with it. The rear mirror attachment slipped right off and the forward attachments require the ol’ long and steady pull.

The nose is off and I am working on the white-dotted bolts on the handlebar clamp. It is difficult with a hex wrench and this would be a good job for hex sockets that @sixpack577 recommended.

Done. One bolt took all of my might, top and bottom to crack it. The other three were reasonable.

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

The fork is out and packaged for the builder. Spec takular.

This is a small dream come true that I did it myself. Thanks @sixpack577 and everyone. As you allude there were no extremely difficult steps whatsoever.

This work is still somewhat of a pain and I am an extremely moody fellow. Do I really want to do the job to pull the shock? I do want it tuned desperately. I must keep the motivation going.

 

[sixpack577]

The fork is out and packaged for the builder. Spec takular.

This is a small dream come true that I did it myself. Thanks @sixpack577 and everyone. As you allude there were no extremely difficult steps whatsoever.

This work is still somewhat of a pain and I am an extremely moody fellow. Do I really want to do the job to pull the shock? I do want it tuned desperately. I must keep the motivation going.

I'm glad things are going well with it, and I will bet you, that if you remove the rear shock...you will find it easier than the job that you just did.
The shock has a nut on top that torques to around 60' lbs.
Then the 3 visible linkage bolts underneath, and that's it.

 

[Bumblebee]

I'm glad things are going well with it, and I will bet you, that if you remove the rear shock...you will find it easier than the job that you just did.
The shock has a nut on top that torques to around 60' lbs.
Then the 3 visible linkage bolts underneath, and that's it.

It was a pain in the arse to remove my rear shock only because at the time I had to figure a way to suspend the rear of the bike...then I figured out the iron rod/jackstand trick.....

Piece of piss after that.

 

[sixpack577]

It was a pain in the arse to remove my rear shock only because at the time I had to figure a way to suspend the rear of the bike...then I figured out the iron rod/jackstand trick.....

Piece of piss after that.

lol, yep
@Hayabusa Wannabe , this is what
@Bumblebee is talking about, or rather very similiar.
As I have the rod running under the frame, as I removed the swingarm to replace the bearings.
Had the swingarm been staying on, like for just a shock swap, then the steel rod would've went throught the swingarm or engine mount hole for more stability.
Put the rear on a swingarm stand, push the single rod(or 2 Very Strong screwdrivers or punches, or 2 short pieces of steel) into each side.
Put jackstands on each side, and lower the bike on to the jackstands as you remove the rear stand.
Also, loosen All the bolts ahead of time, so the bike is stable when you do so.
It'll be very steady on jackstands too, but it just makes it easier.

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

Thanks a lot. I suspected the rod went through the swingarm hole, but was not sure from the description. That makes sense.

Perhaps because I have not been providing pics it is not on your radar but the bike is on the Skylift with the rear strapped to the stand through the swing arm to keep it at a level position. For the shock I presume I can continue do as I please with no special steps (?)

 

[sixpack577]

Thanks a lot. I suspected the rod went through the swingarm hole, but was not sure from the description. That makes sense.

Perhaps because I have not been providing pics it is not on your radar but the bike is on the Skylift with the rear strapped to the stand through the swing arm to keep it at a level position. For the shock I presume I can continue do as I please with no special steps (?)

Yes, it sounds like it

 

[sixpack577]

Yes, it sounds like it

The shock also reinstalls with very little effort, as you are not trying to compress the spring, that is already contained within the shock assembly itself.

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

I am ready to order Dunlop Roadsmart IV tires. I have not decided on a changing solution as I am having analysis paralysis with the limitations or space of each.

How timely that in another thread @sixpack577 recommended the inspection of valves on a used bike as I have been looking for valves. The retailers highlight 90° valves and metal ones. I was thinking to stick to straight as they are the least exposed, for example to curb damage. But I cannot even find a straight rubber valve at Revzilla, It is like I am looking for hens teeth. Is there a brand/model of valve for motorcycles that one can recommend?