How to tell if its time for new chain?
- Thread starter edcop
- Start date
I dont remember the exact measurement, but you need to know what you have pin to pin on the chain to meaure stretch. Outside of that parameter and its time for a new one. If ever in doubt, replace it. I know someone will post up the exact measurement shortly.
My chain was perfectly good at 11k miles but I replaced it for a ZZZ for peace of mind. Can never go wrong with peace of mind 
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/honda-east-toledo/149719-ek-zzz-chains-stock-org-members.html
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/honda-east-toledo/149719-ek-zzz-chains-stock-org-members.html
thank you twotone
I found it in the service manual, count 21 pins(20 pitches) and measure the distance. If the service limit is exceeded( 12.57 inches) you need a new one.
2 Hours probably for a good shop. I did it with a fellow Org member here in town, or rather I watched because I had no clue how to do it.
I suggest buying an extra master link in case the first one gets screwed up. It can happen even if you have done it a few times. Extra masterlink is like 8 bucks.
I would like to chime in on this....I totally agree with what the manual say's...measure the distance between pins...but also....if you grab the chain at the backside of the rear sprocket and pull out...if it pulls away from the teeth even a little...say a 1/4 inch..it's toast. Another clue is if you see any RED Rust leaking out past the o-rings the chain is Toast. The grease is sealed into the chain by the orings/x rings...no matter how much you lube it it will Not penetrate into where it's needed......When we apply chain lube it's only for the rollers and sprockets...Period. as in rust prevention.....
OK here is a scenario....lets say your rear tire lasts forever [ not possible] you install a new chain....break it in for a few miles..then adjust to perfection......the very first time you need to adjust it it is a gonner..i am 60 years old and have replaced so many chains i can't even count.....Your chain can KILL.. if not moniterd properly. theres too tight and to loose. My friend had his chain adjusted at a shop a couple of days ago and came by to see me...when he was sitting on the bike it was Sooooo tight it made sick....he paid 20 bucks and got his money back.
On a good note...if you replace your chain at exactly at the time it needs to be adjusted
your sprockets ...can last almost forever...i put 40k on a 900 Ninja fours chains later the sprockets were still serviceable....it's the chain that wastes sprockets. aluminum sprockets is another story...Hey Cap can you pin this....chains are no laughing matter...
Ps last year my friend on a wheelie barred ZX1400 Kaw did a dry hop..at the drags..and the rivet link plate almost came off and ran 9.20 et...I told him it could go three ways..
1. chain breaks and innocently fly's out the back. 2. Chain wads up at the C-shaft and explodes the engine block. 3. Chain wraps around the rear wheel and locks it up....you could DIE !!! Oh by the way...on a Busa,,,never ever use a clip type master link.....it's good insurance to use a a RIVET on LINK.
OK here is a scenario....lets say your rear tire lasts forever [ not possible] you install a new chain....break it in for a few miles..then adjust to perfection......the very first time you need to adjust it it is a gonner..i am 60 years old and have replaced so many chains i can't even count.....Your chain can KILL.. if not moniterd properly. theres too tight and to loose. My friend had his chain adjusted at a shop a couple of days ago and came by to see me...when he was sitting on the bike it was Sooooo tight it made sick....he paid 20 bucks and got his money back.
On a good note...if you replace your chain at exactly at the time it needs to be adjusted
your sprockets ...can last almost forever...i put 40k on a 900 Ninja fours chains later the sprockets were still serviceable....it's the chain that wastes sprockets. aluminum sprockets is another story...Hey Cap can you pin this....chains are no laughing matter...
Ps last year my friend on a wheelie barred ZX1400 Kaw did a dry hop..at the drags..and the rivet link plate almost came off and ran 9.20 et...I told him it could go three ways..
1. chain breaks and innocently fly's out the back. 2. Chain wads up at the C-shaft and explodes the engine block. 3. Chain wraps around the rear wheel and locks it up....you could DIE !!! Oh by the way...on a Busa,,,never ever use a clip type master link.....it's good insurance to use a a RIVET on LINK.
My chain was perfectly good at 11k miles but I replaced it for a ZZZ for peace of mind. Can never go wrong with peace of mind
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/honda-east-toledo/149719-ek-zzz-chains-stock-org-members.html
Get on board with Justin, he's got them in stock and ready to ship. Quite a few of us have ordered recently.
Hey edcop...i would say at 30K it's a gonner..let us know what it looks like..rusty out the o=rings...can you pull it away from the sprocket....teeth hooked...???
AJAY
Registered
Another good indicator is to gauge the tight/loose condition of the chain and sprockets. Specifically, your chain will have tight spots and loose spots due to uneven wear of the sprockets, which become a little eccentric (egg shaped). You want to find the tightest spot on your chain and then adjust your chain to the appropriate slack. Rotate your rear wheel at least one full turn while you continue checking to see if the chain gets tighter than the point at which you originally adjusted it. With a worn out chain and sprocket set, the slack portions of the chain will be so loose that the chain will easily contact the swing arm, making a slapping sound when you ride. At this point, the chain is dangerous and should be replaced. You cannot tighten your chain to stop the slapping because it will end up being too tight in the tight spots.
Finally, whenever you replace a chain for wear, you should also replace the sprockets, or the worn sprockets will accelerate wear on your new chain.
As for the OP Edcop, if you got 30,000 miles out of your chain and sprockets, that is pretty impressive for a bike of this weight and power.
Finally, whenever you replace a chain for wear, you should also replace the sprockets, or the worn sprockets will accelerate wear on your new chain.
As for the OP Edcop, if you got 30,000 miles out of your chain and sprockets, that is pretty impressive for a bike of this weight and power.
RollingThunder
Registered
Is the measurement to the inside of the pin 1 and 21 or to the outside? There is a half inch difference depending on the answer.
From the diagram, the measurement is inside both pins.
The 530 chain can be worn out and show much less stretch than the smaller size chains. Usually you can take them off and lay them beside a new chain and see quite a difference. I was going to show a picture of my worn 530 chain next to a new one but surprisingly you can't tell any difference by the picture.
measure from the same location on both pins. Center to center. or as I prefer edge to edge Left side to left side >O..... >O Or right side to right side O< ...... O< Chains are built to center to center specs. a 530 is 5/8" per link or .625" you are measuring 20 links so 12.500" would be perfect. As the rollers wear this length will increase. So .070" is the amount of wear required.
Lucid
Registered
Out of habit now, I replace the chain and sprockets on used bikes as soon as I get them. (probably not a bike that is a year or two old and 2k miles lol, but I've always bought older bikes) ESPECIALLY if they're still stock chain and a few years old. You have no clue about previous owner's chain maintenance, riding habits (sprockets getting worn), etc. 30k miles I wouldn't even think twice about it, just swap them out. It's really easy to do as long as you have the right tools. If not, The tools are a one time buy. You'll need:
Angle grinder, dremmel, or some kind of cut off wheel to grind down an old link. ($30 at harbor freight, dremmel is cheaper) I grind the pins down.
Chain breaker to push out the old link. ($80 for a motion pro, but Cycle Gear has a cheap one now that I haven't used yet but I think is under $20)
Chain press tool to flare the new rivet link on the new chain. (usually included as a part/accessory with the chain tool)
Impact wrench (preferred) to get off the front sprocket nut, but I've used a three foot long ratchet (going blank on the name lol) to get it off. I think it's a 32mm socket.
Micrometer or something to measure so you know when to stop flairing.
There are vids all over youtube I'm sure.
Angle grinder, dremmel, or some kind of cut off wheel to grind down an old link. ($30 at harbor freight, dremmel is cheaper) I grind the pins down.
Chain breaker to push out the old link. ($80 for a motion pro, but Cycle Gear has a cheap one now that I haven't used yet but I think is under $20)
Chain press tool to flare the new rivet link on the new chain. (usually included as a part/accessory with the chain tool)
Impact wrench (preferred) to get off the front sprocket nut, but I've used a three foot long ratchet (going blank on the name lol) to get it off. I think it's a 32mm socket.
Micrometer or something to measure so you know when to stop flairing.
There are vids all over youtube I'm sure.
jphilipson
Registered
Tim,
Can you PM a quote for a RK GB530GXW-114 chain and vortex front/rear OEM sizes (18/43?) for the Gen2? Want steel front and rear, not the supersprox.
Similar threads
