Help, what the heck have I done?

[skydivr]

To make it line up on that side, either the a) Rotor has to move in, or b) the fork has to move out. You cannot do that with the pinch bolts (or you'd have a 'gap' on the axle between the forks which would be bad news - and I don't think the pinch bolts could hold off the axle bolt). I guess you could make a shim/spacer/washer to try and insert on the axel side, but it would have to be machined perfectly as it would be sitting on the bearing plate.

Last night I mounted the wheel back on. I followed the instructions Galfer gives for tightening order. Rotor still offsets. I took a dremel tool and ground off about half the 'nub' on that side of the caliper so that it gave me a little extra room. If the rotor is the 'fixed' position that the floating pads conform to, then the rotor should not ever get any closer to the caliper than it is now. I might have a pad that wears unevenly, and I will have to keep close watch on it, but I now have a sneaking suspicion that this has been going on since I bought the bike 3 years ago and just wasn't mechanically educated enough at that time to catch it.

The dealer I took it to is a few miles away from a well-known chromer - they told me the run into, and end up having to fix his work often because it makes stuff go off-spec and causes fitment/alignment issues. That tolerance of the width of the wheel from machined rotor surface to machined rotor surface is pretty dang critical.

P.S. I also notice that the right rotor ALSO misaligns just not as noticeable as the other side.

 

[KvHotDog4]

Another thought is you could mount your front wheel back-wards (just as a test) and see if the bad side becomes good and the good side becomes bad. If the problem switches sides then it is in your wheel or wheel bearing, if it stays on the same side then it has to be in the caliper or fork.

 

[skydivr]

Another thought is you could mount your front wheel back-wards (just as a test) and see if the bad side becomes good and the good side becomes bad. If the problem switches sides then it is in your wheel or wheel bearing, if it stays on the same side then it has to be in the caliper or fork.

Re-read earlier posts Kevin, already turned wheel backwards and the problem reversed to the other side, so it's in the wheel. Rode it last night and did some minor pad-bedding. Very smooth.

 

[KvHotDog4]

Re-read earlier posts Kevin, already turned wheel backwards and the problem reversed to the other side, so it's in the wheel. Rode it last night and did some minor pad-bedding. Very smooth.

Dang I feel like an idiot I must have missed that one or forgot about reading it. So is it smooth enough to bring to the Bash or are you still bringing the 1K?

 

[skydivr]

As of right now, I'm bringing the Busa.

 

[btbusa]

To make it line up on that side, either the a) Rotor has to move in, or b) the fork has to move out. You cannot do that with the pinch bolts (or you'd have a 'gap' on the axle between the forks which would be bad news - and I don't think the pinch bolts could hold off the axle bolt). I guess you could make a shim/spacer/washer to try and insert on the axel side, but it would have to be machined perfectly as it would be sitting on the bearing plate.

Last night I mounted the wheel back on. I followed the instructions Galfer gives for tightening order. Rotor still offsets. I took a dremel tool and ground off about half the 'nub' on that side of the caliper so that it gave me a little extra room. If the rotor is the 'fixed' position that the floating pads conform to, then the rotor should not ever get any closer to the caliper than it is now. I might have a pad that wears unevenly, and I will have to keep close watch on it, but I now have a sneaking suspicion that this has been going on since I bought the bike 3 years ago and just wasn't mechanically educated enough at that time to catch it.

The dealer I took it to is a few miles away from a well-known chromer - they told me the run into, and end up having to fix his work often because it makes stuff go off-spec and causes fitment/alignment issues. That tolerance of the width of the wheel from machined rotor surface to machined rotor surface is pretty dang critical.

P.S. I also notice that the right rotor ALSO misaligns just not as noticeable as the other side.

Agree with what you've said - sounds like you've got at least an 1/8" of 'everlasting' chrome on those wheels - seems that the rotor is offset from the machined face of the wheel.

Did you notice if the rotor mounting face was chromed or machined aluminum when you swapped rotors?

I'm sure you're fed up of swapping wheels around, but if your 1k is of similar vintage to the busa, the front wheel should mount straight in - and (as long as it's not chrome too!) I'm guessing the rotors and calipers will line up - proving that the offset is coming from the chrome on the rotor mounting face.

 

[lankeeyankee]

Chroming on the rim where the rotor seats is to thick. Seen that when I looked at your wheel when I dropped the tires off last week