Bigger discs for a gen 2

Sebslugger

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Long story short...I'm looking for the simplest method for going from 310mm discs to 320mm....
Does anyone supply bigger discs with the correct fitment?
Or am I looking at fitting a gsxr wheel with 320mm discs (oranyother3 spokesportsbikewheel)...if so what model has the same distance between discs?
I have searched numerous times guys, but not found anything relevant....mostly old threads from yrs back, kinda hoping someone has since found a simple route to bigger discs
Ps, I realise I will need to space the calipers out 5mm, these spacers I can make on the lathe
 
I went with 320 mm rotors on my other bike which is about as similar to a Hayabusa as it gets. I don't think the rotors I had were the best material and design for high performance braking but I didn't notice any difference in braking power. You will still have the same surface contact if you have the same pads and calipers. Maybe the larger rotors dissipate heat better. I never used my brakes hard enough to overheat anything.
 
I went with 320 mm rotors on my other bike which is about as similar to a Hayabusa as it gets. I don't think the rotors I had were the best material and design for high performance braking but I didn't notice any difference in braking power. You will still have the same surface contact if you have the same pads and calipers. Maybe the larger rotors dissipate heat better. I never used my brakes hard enough to overheat anything.
My other busa (gen1 streetfigher) has 320mm discs and wheels from a speed triple .. same calipers as my gen 2....same radial master cylinder....same braided hoses....and even the same sbs fast road pads.....1 finger braking is sublime the gen 2 is nowhere near as good.
The only difference between the 2 settups is the discs ....
Gen 1 stock speed triple 320mm
Gen 2 aftermarket wavey discs 310mm
Hence why I want fit 320mm discs...preferably non-wavey...and of good quality....hence asking what the easiest route to bigger discs is for a gen 2
 
Gen1 or 2 does not have a radial master cylinder.
If you want better gen2 brakes,
the cheapest way is Ebc HH 'Extreme Pro' ceramic embedded pads.
They Will stop you sooner, and do not need heated up to work.
A radial master cylinder and better calipers would be next.
Stainless lines are good to improve the brake feel too, but won't stop you any sooner.
If you have a street fighter(where windsheild clearance is no issue), a Bking or several zx10 master cylinders are all radials, and inexpensive.
 
Braketech like I run can be had in larger diameter , but 330mm , but choice of petal stainless or ductile iron . I think only the Gen 1 has discs available in 320mm from Brembo . Pic of the ductile iron 330mm Braketechs , amazing stopping power with that extra diameter , love these quality USA items so much , run them on my Kawasaki too .
IMG_20210729_110913.jpg
 
The extra diameter of discs will do nothing for performance either.
As you have the same calipers and pads trying to stop them...and the discs's larger diameter means they are heavier, so you are actually decreasing your brake performance, and the small gain in size will do little to disapate more heat.
Neither the added weight or larger cooling surface would make any noticeable change.
 
Braketech like I run can be had in larger diameter , but 330mm , but choice of petal stainless or ductile iron . I think only the Gen 1 has discs available in 320mm from Brembo . Pic of the ductile iron 330mm Braketechs , amazing stopping power with that extra diameter , love these quality USA items so much , run them on my Kawasaki too .View attachment 1646793
Take note that Nothing on Toad's brakes are stock...much like the rest of that high end machine.
 
I installed Arashi rotors on mine, factory size, and had around 15% of brake power improvement. Bought it on Aliexpress.
But if you really want a super powerfull brake, install too steel brake lines and EBC HH pads.
Be carefull with this setup because the brakes will be SUPER strong.
This was my setup some years ago:
Hel lines, EBC HH pads and Arashi rotors. Factory brake master cylinder and calipers.
Maybe if you contact Arashi they can make 320 or 330 rotors for you.

pic.jpg
 
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I’m surprised more people don’t just change out the crappy oem master cylinder. I’m only running a Brembo M/C on the Blue K8 and it pulls up excellent.

98,000kms on the factory discs.
I can't believe the gen 3 came with those crappy M/Cs....I guess the fact finding engineers didn't pick up on how many changed those out on the other generations.

The previous owner switched out the front rotors for EBC 5.5mm ones but also gave me the OEM set if I ever need them.
 
I can't believe the gen 3 came with those crappy M/Cs....I guess the fact finding engineers didn't pick up on how many changed those out on the other generations.

The previous owner switched out the front rotors for EBC 5.5mm ones but also gave me the OEM set if I ever need them.
I’m convinced the engineers didn’t really listen or look on what was modified on previous generations.
 
Consider that most Busa owners don't use them to the level we do...and that we'd still probably change it anyway, lol.
But, they have to cut costs somewhere.
 
Factory MC are good. What a few of us remember is that MC has maintenance. There is a repair kit available and it's cheap. I've done the maintenance to mine and it worked pretty fine.
Brembo is good but other brands like Tokiko, Nissin, APRACING and a few others are older and as good as Brembo.
Before spending tons of money in upgrade it would be better to get your bike properly checked.
If your bike doesn't have steel brake lines, this is your starting point, Suzuki recommends the lines replacement each 4 years.
Good job.
 
Factory MC are good. What a few of us remember is that MC has maintenance. There is a repair kit available and it's cheap. I've done the maintenance to mine and it worked pretty fine.
Brembo is good but other brands like Tokiko, Nissin, APRACING and a few others are older and as good as Brembo.
Before spending tons of money in upgrade it would be better to get your bike properly checked.
If your bike doesn't have steel brake lines, this is your starting point, Suzuki recommends the lines replacement each 4 years.
Good job.
I disagree.

Factory M/C are ok for average everyday riding but if you start to work them hard they fall flat, that's why Brembo does so well as they are quality parts.

If you look at any high end bike, they all run Brembo brake systems...there's a reason they do.

Suzuki cheaped out by re-using old M/C on their flagship.
 
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I disagree.

Factory M/C are ok for average everyday riding but if you start to work them hard they fall flat, that's why Brembo does so well as they are quality parts.

If you look at any high end bike, they all run Brembo brake systems...there's a reason they do.

Suzuki cheaped out by re-using old M/C on their flagship.
Same.

I'm more your road course, twistie, bendy chaser.
And I'm the brake late and hard, turn in & trail brake, straighten up and squirt ahead type rider.

The standard M/C was week and had no feed back, no finesse for me.
Change to the RCS Corsa Corta and it's night and day difference.
 
Factory MC are good. What a few of us remember is that MC has maintenance. There is a repair kit available and it's cheap. I've done the maintenance to mine and it worked pretty fine.
Brembo is good but other brands like Tokiko, Nissin, APRACING and a few others are older and as good as Brembo.
Before spending tons of money in upgrade it would be better to get your bike properly checked.
If your bike doesn't have steel brake lines, this is your starting point, Suzuki recommends the lines replacement each 4 years.
Good job.
Been there and done that so changed the entire system. Unfortunately even the braking system on the L7 was just as poop but I expected it as these aren’t top tier exotic bikes to begin with.
 
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