How do you'all keep your header tight. I realize a turbo is like a heavy pendelum and also the turbo header gets extremely hot, but my last bike had a major problem becoming loose. Possibly a thicker flange, locktight, safety wiring bolts, etc. Any other suggestions? And have any of you had issues with this.
Header bolts {keeping them tight?}
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suzuki4life
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if they go on a stay on, well...how many times do you normally need to remove them?
Aquaman
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suzuki4life
Banned
the thought has crossed my mind
Most of the hardware around exh temps seems to work its way loose after a few heat cycles...If you check it a after a few hours or runs whatever the case may be...are they usually loose?
I have had good results with studs and a nut vs. a bolt...if there is room to work with.
One more thing to check over winter months.
I have had good results with studs and a nut vs. a bolt...if there is room to work with.
One more thing to check over winter months.
I had some nifty things on my old cobra headers that were called stage8 something or other, they won't back out.
Here there web site
http://www.stage8.com/
I hope that helps
Here there web site
http://www.stage8.com/
I hope that helps
Has very little if anything to do with "off and on"
if/when racing, turbo manifolds working loose are a serious problem due to heat. As the gases are superheated they can saw an exhaust port open in just a few seconds under full boost conditions. A regular exhaust manifold leak is a bit noisy, and annoying, just not the case with turbo motor..
The correct studs are physically stronger than bolts for attachment and with AN washers using a swedged locknut, manifold leaks are pretty much forgotten.. The few bucks for a set of studs and the work to install them can save the cost of having to weld a $3000 cylinder head and repair the thing. Pressure leaks are just a good thing to avoid.
if/when racing, turbo manifolds working loose are a serious problem due to heat. As the gases are superheated they can saw an exhaust port open in just a few seconds under full boost conditions. A regular exhaust manifold leak is a bit noisy, and annoying, just not the case with turbo motor..
The correct studs are physically stronger than bolts for attachment and with AN washers using a swedged locknut, manifold leaks are pretty much forgotten.. The few bucks for a set of studs and the work to install them can save the cost of having to weld a $3000 cylinder head and repair the thing. Pressure leaks are just a good thing to avoid.
suzuki4life
Banned
place here local has what they call some sort of euro washer...teeth on both sides and you use them as a pair so they lock together. Supplier was very confident about these and exhaust bolts...might give them a try.
here's the place I deal with locally, always a ton of ss on hand.
http://www.totallystainless.com/
nice people, they just don't like me just showing up
I hafta call so they have my order ready....I like to wander around in these types of toy stores.
here's the place I deal with locally, always a ton of ss on hand.
http://www.totallystainless.com/
nice people, they just don't like me just showing up
just take one of your existing exhaust bolts down to your local "nut/bolt shop"
Keep in mind that you need "longer" by at least the height of 3 nuts if not 4. The bolt if the head was cut off would end up flush, you need to provide room for the nut, washer and the stud will also sink into the head a bit further..
Best to get them on the long side, install and trim them to length if you can not find one of the performance guys here with sets already made..
Example of what you are looking for... My guess is you could find the correct ones in that list... VW also had a nice self locking nut for their pipes, not sure it is the right size however..
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