HAYABUSA TURBO radical project

Rdlx3m

Registered
Hi guys! I hope someone here could help me a bit.. im reading shitload of different posts around the web, and nothing really makes me feel comfy since 10people say 10different things!

My question is regarding ignition timing..

Per day im running 200kpa boost with 98octane pump gas, with i would say stock gen 1 timing. Peaking around 380hp to the wheels..

Now im swaping to e50 mix, and wonder can i still keep this ignition map and load it with boost, or would i have benefits of adding more ignition??

My ignition correction is -5 to -7 degree off table between 180 and 220kpa..

I have gt3072r turbo, costum manifold, 9.5:1 carillo rods and pistons, 1/2 main bolts, air to water cooler, and so far i have been beating the crap out of it this season without any issues... i think..

My problem is we cant fit a knocksensor and filter out the noise.. im hoping someone here can give me some hints, or any screenshots of their ignition map just to see what others have done differently..

Im reading some guys high up as 40degre ign. My plan is not over 250kpa (1.5bar of pressure) depending on what power it makes, but i would guess ill be way over 450hp to the wheels on it?

Anyone here to help a newbie out?

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There isn't anybody here or anywhere that can give you the magic max timing number. Load up some fresh plugs and a conservative tune-up. Run it up on boost at 100% TPS, immediately shut it down. Don't drive it around or drive it back to the pits, that'll screw it up. Push it back and pull the plugs. Add other degree or two as needed until you see the timing mark on the strap where you want it. That is literally the only way to do it without guessing. The spark plugs are the witness.
 
If it was mine I would pull 2-3 from your current setup and start there. Once or twice is all you'll really need to get a baseline timing curve setup once you see a good timing mark on the plugs. If you're at all unsure about this, take it to a dyno and let the operator tune it. What are you using for an ecu? What is your current target AFR? What's the stoichiometric AFR of your new fuel?
 
I have ecu master, emu black ecu.. i was eunning 0.78 on 98octane.. now i need to go even richer.. 9.75 or something, right? My lambda sensor is set up for e50 ethanol mix... im a bit lost there with that conversion to be honest heheheh
 
I have ecu master, emu black ecu.. i was eunning 0.78 on 98octane.. now i need to go even richer.. 9.75 or something, right? My lambda sensor is set up for e50 ethanol mix... im a bit lost there with that conversion to be honest heheheh
Hi. Take it and have it tuned. Why e 50? If you can get a MAXX ECU it is the best one out there. I have the MAXX ECU the Race H20 that for the money is the best next to the PRO. Also can you run VP X98 or VP M1?
 
why should i spend money on a maxx ecu when i just installed a pretty advanced ecu for the use i need. , not to mention much cheaper ..?

Im Going e50 i dont want to spend hilarious amount of money on race fuel for a streetcar..

Prices here are insane. 300$ for 50litres of 102 octane..

50 litres of premixed e50 cost me 60$
Safer then 98 octane and more power to pull out then what i want today.
 
Not to mention, there is nothing more a maxxecu can do for me then my emu black does.. i just wish it was somehow possible to make the knock sensor work properly.. but listening to all haybusa builders for last 15-20 yrs, that is impossible without isolating the engine in a lab and working on it.. might killing 2-3 engines before youre there
 
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