Had the left cover off today

[skydivr]

To put on Woodcraft Stator Cover. No, no pics (was expecting a disaster). After all I'd read about the right cover, and how the left cover was harder, I was prepared for the worst (that I'd break something). But really, it wasn't that bad. Between the pinned post (not entirely correct) and the shop manual, was able to figure it out without busting something. Also used the shop manual to take the cover off, swap the stator, and put the new cover on to the correct torque. Spent more time looking and worrying about it than actually doing it.

Actually, the left cover may be easier than the right (because you don't have to take off/unhook the underbelly cover) as the left side doesn't connect to it.

Ended up removing the Undercowl cover, and the gauge covers to get off the cover over the fuses to get all the pins free; and lifted tank. Also have to remove seat to unhook battery (part of stator cover removal).

The hard part about the side cover was have to pop UPWARD to get that top pin out, then the cover slides forward, then backwards and out. Put tape on the seam as suggested to help prevent scratching. Rained all day so wasn't in a hurry. Woodcraft cover with blue puck much cleaner than my old R&G slider that I skinned up twice already (and potentially cause a lowside).

Only question I have is, which side has to come off to get to the oil filter for an oil change?

 

[Mr Bogus]

cool deal.. loctite the screws right? that other thing you had was scary

 

[Big D]

Only question I have is, which side has to come off to get to the oil filter for an oil change?

Nice job. For the oil filter, I believe only the right side has to come off.

D

 

[skydivr]

cool deal.. loctite the screws right? that other thing you had was scary

Yep, red locktite on the stator bolts and sensor bolts, with proper torque (I sure hope I did it right). I had a hard time getting the pins out of the old cover and into the new one, ended up having to grab with vise grips (wrapped the pins in my leather work gloves to try not to scratch) to get out (what would have been a better idea?). Also, you REALLY DO have to be careful when those magnets grab when putting the cover back on, that could cut the crap out of your hand! I had read about that, so I had my leather gloves on and was being careful not to get a finger near the edges, but still...wow....

If i did it wrong (besides a bolt coming loose catastrophic failure) will there be any indication? voltage? Battery not charge?

 

[Mythos]

I'm replacing the stator cover on my Gen 2 soon.

Is the process pretty much the same as shown for the Gen 1 in the thread I linked to below?
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/busa-problems/6313-stator-cover-replacement.html

The Service Manual says to remove engine oil when removing the "generator." Do I need to drain oil just to remove the stator cover?

 

[Big E]

You'll be fine. No need to drain the oil.

 

[Mythos]

Thanks, E.

I suppose a small amount of oil will run out when I pull the cover off. Aside from that, looks like all I gotta do is remove the bolts, carefully pry the cover away from the magnetic force and then remove and discard the old gasket. Remove the coils and other thing from the inside of the OEM cover and transfer to the Woodcraft cover. install the Woodcraft cover with coils/etc. along with new gasket in reverse order of removal .....and watch fingers. right?

 

[skydivr]

Wow, I don't even remember posting this - talk about resurrection...

You don't need to drain oil. There will be a little in the cover no big deal.

I'm not kidding about WATCH YOUR FINGERS!!! that magnet is so strong it will snatch that cover right out of your hands!! And any flesh in between will get REMOVED!

 

[Mythos]

thanks skydivr. I don't think this will be too hard. I see the removal of the cover and the generator coils and CKP sensor is covered in the SM. I'll do a Gen 2 photo how-to and post it in Maintenance & DIY.

 

[Mythos]

Have the wire couplers dosconected and all 9 screws out.......I see we have three or four small tabs on the edge of the cover to grab behind. A bit of oil has dripped out past the gasket ............I can get this thing to slide up and down a tiny bit...like there is just a little play between the dowel pins. I can't slide the cover out laterally at all. I'm aprehensive to pull much harder. There's not much to grab onto and I DO NOT want to accidentally pinch some skin under the edge of the cover if the cover comes out unexpectedly.

Is this thing stuck? How hard should it be to pull this thing?? I mean, about how many pounds of pressure would you say it takes?

 

[skydivr]

Have the wire couplers dosconected and all 9 screws out.......I see we have three or four small tabs on the edge of the cover to grab behind. A bit of oil has dripped out past the gasket ............I can get this thing to slide up and down a tiny bit...like there is just a little play between the dowel pins. I can't slide the cover out laterally at all. I'm aprehensive to pull much harder. There's not much to grab onto and I DO NOT want to accidentally pinch some skin under the edge of the cover if the cover comes out unexpectedly.

Is this thing stuck? How hard should it be to pull this thing?? I mean, about how many pounds of pressure would you say it takes?

THAT's the Magnet....When I said it was powerful, I really wasn't kidding.....to be safe, refer to the service manual to make sure you've done everything else first. I might recommend trying to stick something soft, like a pencil in between. Remember, when the magnet releases, it's ABRUPT...

 

[Mythos]

Thanks skydir. Glad you are here.

THAT's the Magnet....When I said it was powerful, I really wasn't kidding.....to be safe, refer to the service manual to make sure you've done everything else first.

Wow...that's kinda what I thought but generally pulling hard o stuff that does not want let go is a wrenching no-no. This may be one exception. I already followed what the SM suggests except for draining the oil. Disconecting the wire may b not be absolutely necessary but I'm glad I did. It could get yanked very hard considering how stubborn that magnet clings to the cover. The screws are just there to squeeze the gasket a little. The magnet holds this cover on just fine. I think there could be a special puller for this but the SM does not mention that. The tabs look as though they are made for puller hooks to grab.

The tabs are marked by the yelow pointers..the purple dot is also a tab but it looks like that may have a piece of gasket sticking out there so may not be the best place to pull on if you intend to reuse the gasket.


View attachment 1562983

I might recommend trying to stick something soft, like a pencil in between. Remember, when the magnet releases, it's ABRUPT...

Yes! A guy could roll over backward pulling so hard. To get this thing to release, I will probably try to pry gently against the engine with a piece of wood on the front tab.

 

[skydivr]

Just remember (and I'm NOT KIDDING), do NOT have your fingers any where near the edges when you get about 3 inches from putting it back on and the magnet catches.....

 

[MLSDUKE1]

Yup, LUCKILY during this build, I didn't get caught between it but I had forgotten about that precaution and pulled my hands out just in time.......

 

[Mythos]

I'm sure the magnet was NOT the only thing that was holding my cover so tightly, it must have been just as much the dowel pins that made it so tough to pull. Perhaps the Gen 2 was designed with the dowel pins spaced so that they fit real tight to the holes in the case and cover. Nothing looks damaged so I think all the parts are fitting as designed.

I had to pry with a plastic brush handle under the tabs to pull the cover. It was much more than the skin on my knuckles could handle to attempt pulling this without a prying tool. As you can see, the cover slid out on the dowels about a sixteenth of an inch and it just sat there. It would not go back down under the magnetic force in the generator. Even when I got the gap bewteen the cover and the engine case equal all the way around, the cover would not clap back down and it was not pulling off easy either.
View attachment 1562984

One pin stuck in the engine case and one in the cover.



If the tight dowel fit was not a Gen2 update, the only other thing I can think is that the two tip overs on the stator cover might have expanded or bent the dowel pins??? I sort of doubt that could happen. The bolts should have held the cover in place perfectly. No oil leaked after the tip over so I doubt anything moved. The gasket is so thin, I don't see how that could have allowed any movement of the cover when the bike landed on it.

Maybe I will discover something as I am installing the new cover.

 

[Mythos]

I will be removing the stator coils and CKP sensor, to transfer them to the new cover. Does it matter if the staor coils move in relationship to the CKP sensor or the generator rotor?? Like I mean is there any sort of stator timing that needs to be maintained similar to the engine timing that is important when removing camshafts during a valve adjustment?

 

[skydivr]

I will be removing the stator coils and CKP sensor, to transfer them to the new cover. Does it matter if the staor coils move in relationship to the CKP sensor or the generator rotor?? Like I mean is there any sort of stator timing that needs to be maintained similar to the engine timing that is important when removing camshafts during a valve adjustment?

No. Didn't create any issues with mine.

I suspect the dowel pins are also there to ensure it properly seats, because with that much magnetic force, you'd have one heck of a time aligning it correctly otherwise.

 

[Mythos]

No. Didn't create any issues with mine.

Well, good then. I will be back on it after the weekend is done, Got the engine taped up with plastic to keep dust out. I'm interested to see how the weight of the OEM cover compares to the Woodcraft.

I suspect the dowel pins are also there to ensure it properly seats, because with that much magnetic force, you'd have one heck of a time aligning it correctly otherwise.

Ya, that would be a must with this thing.


thanks for you help (and MLSDUKE1, too) stay tuned, please.

 

[skydivr]

You won't notice the weight difference one bit. The whole reason I changed mine was the skuff pad...

 

[Mythos]

I will be removing the stator coils and CKP sensor, to transfer them to the new cover. Does it matter if the staor coils move in relationship to the CKP sensor or the generator rotor?? Like I mean is there any sort of stator timing that needs to be maintained similar to the engine timing that is important when removing camshafts during a valve adjustment?

No. Didn't create any issues with mine.

.......

Sure looks like the coils rotates...see the metal plate atop each coil? That seems to be what the CKP sensor would be taking its reading off of .....but as far as I can tell, the coils do not rotate. Must be just the generator rotor that rotates around the coils. Well, I'm not going to try to make the stator rotate whether it is supposed to or not but I did take the extra step to mark the stator screw that is closest to the CKP sensor. The CKP and the Stator are one part connected by a short thick wire so it would be pretty much impossible to mess up their alignment when installing.


I believe I will be fine from here on in. I will put up my stator cover replacement tutorial in the DIY section very soon. Thanks for all of the help.