over $3500 in top end. bottom is stock. port-polish, 5 axis job-h.d. valve springs- hard weld cams- pc 5, bored throttle bodies, 2 short velocity stacks, head gasket, and dyno. turn key. 210 h.p. at the rear - rc's performance, laurenburg n.c. . YOUR ONLY AS FAST AS YOUR POCKETS ARE DEEP.
No real secrets in a solid build, top engine builders will measure and document every measurement and have their personal settings for a lot of clearances
For a straight forward Block/piston/cam swap Hardest part is degreeing the cams
go on youtube and watch a SHEIT load of videos on how to do it. If you seem comfortable with it. FOLLOW THE MANUAL STEP BY STEP for motor removal and disassembly to the cyl removal, reassemble with the new parts after gapping the rings, MAKE SURE YOU ARE CAREFUL sliding the jug down
84mm is a little harder than stock bore because there is less chamfer on the bottom of the jug to help compress the rings
kewl lol the only problem I ran into the 1st time was not using a torque wrench inside the motor 1st time smh "I'll get it right enough" with that being said ride it down the block and had to tear it open again hahahaha nice set of new gaskets on the engine block hard learned lesson.... tighten the piston arms 2 tight what a lag.......
I got lucky and found someone to machine/ bore the heads... so now I jis need to find the right piston ring kit & perhaps adjustable cams... I read the stock arms are pretty good for 200 300hp? I'll start ther