Gen 3 electrical issues / dash warnings

Uglywhitebike

Registered
I bought a gen 3 recently w/ 2500 miles from a dealer, realized the brake lights and a signal were out about 500 miles away, closer to home. After much discussion the dealer mailed me a replacement tail light assembly which I installed but I still don’t have brake lights. Came to find out the PO botched a tail tidy install and it shorted on me while I was trying to fix. Initially I lost tail and dash lights but tracked down the blown signal fuse and replaced it. I unplugged the tag light connector that shorted but still no brake lights and now I have a “ FI / HILL!” warning flashing back and forth.

Attached is the garbage tail tidy wiring with exposed wires.

Any ideas? Did I fry something? What a nightmare.

Wondering what I got myself into with this “lightly used” ‘22.

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Let it sit for a bit without power, can back and dash warnings cleared but still no brake lights, hopefully my 3rd party warranty covers this.
 
That certainly sucks......

Electrical and I are not friendly but there are many on this forum who are.....

Are all the other lights working and just the brake light isn't?

I'd imagine Suzuki went and messed up the simple brake light set up of the previous generations by going to linked brakes, the brake light switches are probably linked as well....
 
That certainly sucks......

Electrical and I are not friendly but there are many on this forum who are.....

Are all the other lights working and just the brake light isn't?

I'd imagine Suzuki went and messed up the simple brake light set up of the previous generations by going to linked brakes, the brake light switches are probably linked as well....
everything but the brake lights and it’s almost like the tail lights are flickering at times.
Brand spanking new tail light assembly from Suzuki.
 
Anyone that uses T-taps should have a finger cut off. butt connectors are ok sometimes but on a bike like this any non factory connections should've been soldered and heat shrinked. Sorry I used to be an MECP installer back in the early 2000's and crap like this drives me nuts. Good luck with your repair sir I hope it's an easy fix,
 
Anyone that uses T-taps should have a finger cut off. butt connectors are ok sometimes but on a bike like this any non factory connections should've been soldered and heat shrinked. Sorry I used to be an MECP installer back in the early 2000's and crap like this drives me nuts. Good luck with your repair sir I hope it's an easy fix,
I feel the same way I have worked in the Electrical install and equipment repair field since 2004. Solder/heat shrink or the bunt connectors with the solder in the middle where you use a heat gun are the only things I will use. When I used to work for a manufacturer that built handicap accessible vans I used to solder and use heat shrink with a micro torch it worked great once you got the hang of it too.
 
I bought a gen 3 recently w/ 2500 miles from a dealer, realized the brake lights and a signal were out about 500 miles away, closer to home. After much discussion the dealer mailed me a replacement tail light assembly which I installed but I still don’t have brake lights. Came to find out the PO botched a tail tidy install and it shorted on me while I was trying to fix. Initially I lost tail and dash lights but tracked down the blown signal fuse and replaced it. I unplugged the tag light connector that shorted but still no brake lights and now I have a “ FI / HILL!” warning flashing back and forth.

Attached is the garbage tail tidy wiring with exposed wires.

Any ideas? Did I fry something? What a nightmare.

Wondering what I got myself into with this “lightly used” ‘22.

View attachment 1680850

View attachment 1680851
first thing you need to do is fix the wiring. Remove anything not factory and reconnect all the factory wires to each other. When you say no dash lights, do you mean the back lighting or that the screen doesn't come on and there is no illumination?
 
The OP's experience is one reason why I don't buy used bikes especially one that has been modified in any way. 99% of the time a used bike is a good purchase but there's always the 1% chance you buy a bike with issues. I'd have taken the bike to the closest Suzuki dealership and had them troubleshoot/fix the issue and then see if the dealership I purchased the bike from would reimburse me.
 
The OP's experience is one reason why I don't buy used bikes especially one that has been modified in any way. 99% of the time a used bike is a good purchase but there's always the 1% chance you buy a bike with issues. I'd have taken the bike to the closest Suzuki dealership and had them troubleshoot/fix the issue and then see if the dealership I purchased the bike from would reimburse me.
It certainly is a crap-shoot when buying anything used.

Sometimes you luck out and others you get burned....

I bought mine used but lucked out as the previous owner was OCD when it came to his bikes.
 
first thing you need to do is fix the wiring. Remove anything not factory and reconnect all the factory wires to each other. When you say no dash lights, do you mean the back lighting or that the screen doesn't come on and there is no illumination?
The janky wiring blew the signal fuse and caused the dash to go black and it would start, replaced fuse and let it shill for a bit with the battery disconnected and the warning went away and the brake light issue was from the rear brake switch, the switch was stuck some how. Completely separate issue. All good for now :thumbsup: thanks yall!
 
The OP's experience is one reason why I don't buy used bikes especially one that has been modified in any way. 99% of the time a used bike is a good purchase but there's always the 1% chance you buy a bike with issues. I'd have taken the bike to the closest Suzuki dealership and had them troubleshoot/fix the issue and then see if the dealership I purchased the bike from would reimburse me.
I was pretty sure it was the tail light assembly because of the Janky fender delete, the dealership sent me a new tail light since I was so far away to see if that would fix it. Seems fine now, again, only 2500 miles and the fender delete was the extent of mods other than paint matched under tank panels. I did purchase a 3rd party warranty just in case.
 
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