Gen 2 horsepower mods and tuning questions

[ROADTOAD1340]

Yes Arch , exactly as you describe , with my suspension setting erring on the soft side for street . The Busa is at the moment , the best it has ever been setup , it feels far more superior ride , this Busa is almost perfect for the roads I ride imho . It does not seem to fight irregularities , it just deals with them , rides over and done with in smooth motion , it constantly amazes me bro .

 

[ROADTOAD1340]

I guess it is all a result of the total combination I got lucky with , it all works well together . The serviced Ohlins fork and shock , the BST wheels and swingarm , the ti axles , the correct torques applied to fork and axles , my tire choice and the air pressure I choose for days ride . Been messing with air pressures a lot nowadays .

 

[fallenarch]

I am always amazed at top-quality parts. Some of them make little difference as their benefit is so high up in the performance levels that you rarely even get up to where you can use them. Sort of like slicks only really works if you are keeping a lot of heat in them. But other parts are very clearly otherworldly and pretty dang amazing.

For example, Ohlins feel like plush OEM forks. But get them set up properly and it's an instant magic carpet ride. The feel and communication you get from the wheels is incredible. The Brembos are similar. The big part is the RCS MC. But once you have that the M4's feel amazing and the GP4s make you feel another level of invincible. While OEM brakes will eventually stop you, these parts make stopping a whole new, complex experience. Do you need this capability? Nope. But if you can have it, it will change how you appreciate riding your machine.

I once rode an old AMA spec racing bike. Surprisingly, It felt like garbage. But the faster you went, the better everything felt until you found yourself doing things easily on track you would never try on your mostly OEM street bike. That's pretty much how the right aftermarket parts can make a bike better.

 

[Quiksilver]

So I was looking on schnitz racing and came across these two filters. I noticed they had two different filters for the gen 2 and a big price difference. Anyone have experience with these? I have seen a few tubers using them.

 

[ROADTOAD1340]

Yes , I run the p08 f1 85 on both my bikes , the best flowing , but you must silicone the airbox join if you live in dusty environment . Also , not recommended for touring , and you check after every big ride and do the silicone extra seal . I like it , no more oil , and I dont mind checking it fairly often . Silicone oil , not sealant .

 

[ottafish]

I've got the P08 on mine. Have had for a while. No probs and the tuner reckons it breathes really well. They are not cool if you are in a dusty area so we discovered. The airbox and tops of the throttle bodies were covered in a fine layer of dust. I'm not in a dusty area and the filter has about 3500kms on it. So they're apparently good if you're a city ride or a straight line junkie

 

[Quiksilver]

I ride mostly in the city and the area I live in is relatively clean air. It's is in north America, the southern part and we do have lots of tree which produce alot of pollen at times. Since I purchased my cruiser I have taken the busa on the shorter trips. I do the occasional day on it once or twice a year. I may take it to the dragon but it will probably take most of that ride on a trailer, my body isn't what it was 10 years ago to stay on the busa all day.

So the main two halves under the tank has to be siliconed together? What about the ram air tubes?

 

[ROADTOAD1340]

I ride mostly in the city and the area I live in is relatively clean air. It's is in north America, the southern part and we do have lots of tree which produce alot of pollen at times. Since I purchased my cruiser I have taken the busa on the shorter trips. I do the occasional day on it once or twice a year. I may take it to the dragon but it will probably take most of that ride on a trailer, my body isn't what it was 10 years ago to stay on the busa all day.

So the main two halves under the tank has to be siliconed together? What about the ram air tubes?

Not silconed together , silicon grease , it is a lubricant grease , but perfect for a seal on airbox . Comes apart just like normal airbox does . Those bloody ram tubes leak like sieves , I just left them as , I also meant to say silicone grease the filter edge , the airbox is bonus tho , the filter has to be silicone greased to aid best seal .
So , do the edge of filter element first , then you can if you choose do the airbox halves , but really bro , the filter silicone greased is needed most . Sorry for rushed response , got to go get a jab vaccine in a minute !!

 

[Quiksilver]

Not silconed together , silicon grease , it is a lubricant grease , but perfect for a seal on airbox . Comes apart just like normal airbox does . Those bloody ram tubes leak like sieves , I just left them as , I also meant to say silicone grease the filter edge , the airbox is bonus tho , the filter has to be silicone greased to aid best seal .
So , do the edge of filter element first , then you can if you choose do the airbox halves , but really bro , the filter silicone greased is needed most . Sorry for rushed response , got to go get a jab vaccine in a minute !!

No worries the advice is much appreciated, rushed or not! I'm new to alot of these mods as I paid more attention to the gen 1 turbo side of things.

I got mine a few months back. About 12 hours after the first shot I got the worst headache, actually start to forget people's name I work with. I get terrible headache so I'm not sure if that was a coincidence or not. Hopefully you don't have any side effects.

 

[Quiksilver]

So it begins....I purchased the nitrous harness and quick shifter. I also purchased a busted headlight to try to make a lightweight headlight similar to the carbon w/ led. It won't be as light but may allow me to relocate the battery if I decide to do so and shave a pound or two. I have some cheap mirror black offs but have been after the brocks carbon mirror block offs for some time now so those might be purchased next.

 

[Quiksilver]

After some research I've read it's a good idea to upgrade the fuel pump if going over 30hp shot so I figured I would upgrade. It seems the bosch 69420 is a direct replacement with higher flow so I got that on the way. I also read the boost by smith harness requires pair valve block offs so that will be on the way soon. When my exhaust was changed the shop said they weren't needed and I suppose they got "misplaced" lol.

 

[Quiksilver]

Has anyone ran the roaring toys adjustable lowering links? I don't see the adjustment range in the description. I also seen the psr kit but haven't heard of them. The psr is adjustable from 0-4 in drop.

 

[ROADTOAD1340]

Has anyone ran the roaring toys adjustable lowering links? I don't see the adjustment range in the description. I also seen the psr kit but haven't heard of them. The psr is adjustable from 0-4 in drop.

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Have you checked out Brocks window items bro , I do not know the range they drop tho , but might match the strap kit they also sell . Those PSR do lok strong tho , I went for KFactory items , because they start at stock height .

 

[Quiksilver]

Have you checked out Brocks window items bro , I do not know the range they drop tho , but might match the strap kit they also sell . Those PSR do lok strong tho , I went for KFactory items , because they start at stock height .

Yessir I did. That was my first choice. The adjustment is 1" to 3.5 lower than stock. I plan to get a dime aluminum swingarm so the 1 in drop will probably be needed anyway. My last bike was dropped 2 in in the rear and was much easier on my back. I almost had to relearn to ride when I first got my gen 2. I do like how the adjustment is measured in the brocks. I also plan to get the straps to take to the track.

 

[Quiksilver]

Ok so I installed the pair block off and nitrous manifold. I capped off the right side where the rubber pair valve line was. Pair solenoid is still plugged into the harness. Quick shifter is installed and has the green light. Everything seems to be plugged in and my idle is at 2k. Please help!!!!!!!!

 

[Klutch556]

Yea most of the poop we do to our bikes is technically illegal for road use lol. But they aren't things that are easily or visually identifiable so they can't ticket us for it.
Sadly though here in the states we don't have a ton of curvy roads. We have them, just not a lot. But we do have a lot of Mexican roads... I mean straight roads
The roll racing is getting more popular than drag racing because all bikes are fast... But not all bikes are fast off a line. So pretty much everyone can participate.

 

[busakiller]

Mods you should do if your looking to roll race that bike. Put a longer arm on the bike. 6-10 is a great length or 4-8 arm. 18-40 gearing, ecu tune, filter, all short stack, quick shifter, front strap, lower the forks in the triple tree, lowering links, performance first spray bar, run the nitrous with factory ecu, then do light weight stuff like wheels and stuff. I try and do all the cheap stuff first and then do the expensive stuff. Key is with the busa is to leave in 1st gear and take advantage of that torque. Starting in 2nd when the other bike starts in 1st is going to kill you

 

[Quiksilver]

Well I got it. I sprayed some crab cleaner and the idle came down. So I tore it all down and put an unhealthy amount of silicone and it sealed. Got it all back together and took her for a rip and all is good. I wasn't so sure how the quick shifter would work out. I made sure the revs were close to the tach in the healtech app. I browsed the app but didn't make any changes. I left it on the factory settings and shifting feels a bit sluggish but I wasn't able to get near redline. I will try the 85ms until I can feel it out more. I still have the nitrous harness, fuel pump, and air filter left.

 

[john blaze]

Mods you should do if your looking to roll race that bike. Put a longer arm on the bike. 6-10 is a great length or 4-8 arm. 18-40 gearing, ecu tune, filter, all short stack, quick shifter, front strap, lower the forks in the triple tree, lowering links, performance first spray bar, run the nitrous with factory ecu, then do light weight stuff like wheels and stuff. I try and do all the cheap stuff first and then do the expensive stuff. Key is with the busa is to leave in 1st gear and take advantage of that torque. Starting in 2nd when the other bike starts in 1st is going to kill you

Amen brother.....Dont get baited into leaving in a 2nd gear roll......these thousands no that gear wise we are totally mismatched.......leave in the gear that the busa loves.......1st.

 

[john blaze]

I like smackdowns.
And NOS.
And my stuffs lowered and stretched......
And even though we DO make more HP for less money using turbos
There is still a place in performance using Nitrous oxide.