Fork Service How-To





05BusaLe

Too much time to kill and money to spend
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#21
(thebbbusa @ Feb. 05 2007,00:24)
(05BusaLe @ Feb. 04 2007,21:06) This is great as I will be changing my springs soon, BTW do I have to pull the forks off the bike or can I just take them apart from the top after removing handle bar assembly?
It'd be awfully hard to drain if you can't turn them upside down.
Do I have to drain them? The bike only has 1400 miles on it. I just want to change the springs for heavy duty ones!
 

thebbbusa

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#22
I suppose technically it could be done, but not realistically. You will have to fully compress both springs at the same time to get to the bottom of the lock nut, then you will have to hold that nut to remove the top part, release the suspsension and pull the springs out. I think it could be done, but you're gonna get oil all over your bike in the process. I think you'll find that once you remove the big hex on top of the forks, and begin to compress the forks without draining them, I think oil is gonna come out.

Either way, you're gonna have to buy oil cause you will lose some.
 

CAT3

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#23
Yes you could change the springs on the bike, but not using the cheapo tool setup I posted. I would change the fluid out since your in there, it wont hurt any, and you can upgrade the viscosity while your at it to gain better dampening etc.

Removing the forks is actually very easy and painless.
 

05BusaLe

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#24
Ok you talked me in to it, I have to pull the wheel off to change my rotors so wont take much more to pull forks!
 

CAT3

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#25
(05BusaLe @ Feb. 05 2007,20:19) Ok you talked me in to it, I have to pull the wheel off to change my rotors so wont take much more to pull forks!
Yep...only 6 more bolts
smile.gif
 
#27
Followed your instructions, Changed a few bits.  I bought 2 Coach bolts and welded some nuts onto a 2" pipe. Cut the pipe to about 2" long as you dont have much room so get the thin piece of metal in to lock under the nut. But all in all it went great. top of the class my friend.
 

CAT3

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#28
(socommk23 @ May 05 2007,06:04) what weight oil is used?
I used 10w. Depends on your riding style, weight etc. Stock oil is around 2.5 IIRC..

Good Job Blackshadow, you like the way it rides now, less front end dive etc?
 

CAT3

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#30
(DAB @ Jun. 05 2007,16:26) Can't see the pics, getting this error when I try to use the image links:

e.g. http://i83.imagethrust.com/t/616405/forkrebuild001.jpg

Warning: mysql_connect() [function.mysql-connect]: Lost connection to MySQL server during query in /home2/images/s3_i83/dataconfig.php on line 2
Could not connect: Lost connection to MySQL server during query
I noticed this also. They are on the imagethrust server, and for reason its having issues...even when I checked, the rest of my pic were fine, but these maybe exceeded the BW or something? Not sure. If they come back up, I will see if someone can put them on the sites server so there wont be any issues.. sorry, should have done that sooner.
 
#34
Cat3, i was told you were the person to see for RC Components "Vega" style polished aluminum Busa front rim. if you can get one please let me know price shipped to CT. size if for normal Busa front end.
Matching this rear rim.

(I didnt know how to PM you)

P5240005.JPG
 

gtrpimp76

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#37
I just finally found this thread as it was stickied at the gixxer.com forums as well! I decided to do my own fork seals (after a hard year of trackdays) and this DIY writeup is absolutely incredible and very informative. Dang stealership wants to charge me $230 for new fork seals, and that's with the forks off. Seals didn't even top $25. I bought the tools from traxxion dynamics b/c I didn't have time to make the tools.

Anyways, I just had to come back to the source of the write up and give props and huge thanx. The gixxer.com folks seem to love it as well.
beerchug.gif
 

gtrpimp76

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#38
Just finished my fork seal replacements. Also went ahead and replaced the dust seals while I was at it. pretty easy once you have the tools in hand. I made a DIY cartridge tool to help with getting the cartridge while the spring is compressed. I'll have to post an addendum to this great thread. I basically used a 5/8" rod, a 27/64" drill bit, M12 x 1.25mm (threadpitch) tap. and it works like a charm and totally helps, especially with reassembly for the peeps who don't have extra hands to help with the fork job.
 

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