FMU install

jdsbusa

jdsbusa

Registered
Take a look at the pic I attached of my FMU setup. Is that acceptable? The install guide I'm using shows the FMU mounted horizontal rather than vertical like I have mine - just want to make sure everything will clear ok. Also, regarding the fuel tank, I've plumbed a line into the bottom of the "bowl" - where the heck does the line go that WAS the fuel feed for the bike before? I now have what's essentially 2 fuel feeds and the instructions don't notate where that 2nd line goes. Thanks!

begi.jpg
 
Just figured that out....duh me!! Tied lines 2 and 3 on the rail into the FMU, line 3 needs go to the fuel pressure gauge. DOH!

So is the FMU mounted ok? No clearance issues that way or anything else I might be missing on it?

BTW - There's nothing on my Begi that shows what side is IN and which is OUT, I just used the pic and rotated it according to the way the pic showed and went with that. Any other way to know which is IN and which is OUT for sure?
 
should have in on one of the bottoms where the fuel lines go in at or an arrow that shows the flow, from the way it looks should be the right side is in and the left is out shouldnt have any issues with how its mounted doesnt look like
 
goodluck said:
should have in on one of the bottoms where the fuel lines go in at or an arrow that shows the flow, from the way it looks should be the right side is in and the left is out shouldnt have any issues with how its mounted doesnt look like
Click to expand...

Got it.....found the part where it's stamped IN - I had it backwards. :whistle:
 
my question is, did you actually set it up for your bike? there are springs and such inside that change the fuel curve.
 
ogre said:
my question is, did you actually set it up for your bike? there are springs and such inside that change the fuel curve.
Click to expand...
that style of begi uses a bleed screw to adjust the rate of rise
dont need to disassemble them to adjust anything
 
cdhoroho said:
that style of begi uses a bleed screw to adjust the rate of rise
dont need to disassemble them to adjust anything
Click to expand...


Yes, there is a bleed screw on an FMU to adjust the rising rate, there is also the main adjustment to set the base fuel pressure. With stock injectors, the base fuel pressure should be set to 42-43 pounds at idle. The bleed screw should be fine at 1/2 turn out.

If you are using the FMU with oversize injectors, you may want "recalibrate" it internally with a kit we sell, called surprisingly, a "recalibration kit". A rising rate fuel regulator - by design -is set up at a certain rate of "gain". It could be a 7:1 or 5:1 regulator - the bleed screw adjustment simply changes the "onset" of this rate of gain. The only way to actually change the rate of gain is to modify the FMU with a recalibration kit - which will change the actual rate of gain either to 4:1 or 3:1. The advantage of this with larger injectors is that the FMU no longer goes to 90-100 pounds of fuel pressure, which you do not need with large injectors, and which you don't want anyway, ever. If you set these things up correctly, and tune them correctly, your turbo bike will run correctly!:beerchug:
 
Using stock injectors, the screw has been set at 1/2 turn out. Of course it'll just be setup enough to get me to my tuner....about 45 min ride away but that won't happen til March or so when it warms up again and there's no threat of snow every day.
 
jdsbusa said:
Take a look at the pic I attached of my FMU setup. Is that acceptable? The install guide I'm using shows the FMU mounted horizontal rather than vertical like I have mine - just want to make sure everything will clear ok. Also, regarding the fuel tank, I've plumbed a line into the bottom of the "bowl" - where the heck does the line go that WAS the fuel feed for the bike before? I now have what's essentially 2 fuel feeds and the instructions don't notate where that 2nd line goes. Thanks!
Click to expand...

Jeff Jeff.... what do I see here..... I haven't been on the board for some time and I see you are getting some boost!
 
fstbusa said:
Jeff Jeff.... what do I see here..... I haven't been on the board for some time and I see you are getting some boost!
Click to expand...

Si.....

but not getting....now have. :laugh: Your '03 rubbed off on me last year. :whistle:

Build was fun while it lasted, now just waiting for roads to clear.
 
jdsbusa said:
Si.....

but not getting....now have. :laugh: Your '03 rubbed off on me last year. :whistle:

Build was fun while it lasted, now just waiting for roads to clear.
Click to expand...

just make sure you get that baby tuned before you ride it on boost.... you can smoke it quick if you don't.... :laugh:
 
POWERHOUSE said:
Yes, there is a bleed screw on an FMU to adjust the rising rate, there is also the main adjustment to set the base fuel pressure. With stock injectors, the base fuel pressure should be set to 42-43 pounds at idle. The bleed screw should be fine at 1/2 turn out.

If you are using the FMU with oversize injectors, you may want "recalibrate" it internally with a kit we sell, called surprisingly, a "recalibration kit". A rising rate fuel regulator - by design -is set up at a certain rate of "gain". It could be a 7:1 or 5:1 regulator - the bleed screw adjustment simply changes the "onset" of this rate of gain. The only way to actually change the rate of gain is to modify the FMU with a recalibration kit - which will change the actual rate of gain either to 4:1 or 3:1. The advantage of this with larger injectors is that the FMU no longer goes to 90-100 pounds of fuel pressure, which you do not need with large injectors, and which you don't want anyway, ever. If you set these things up correctly, and tune them correctly, your turbo bike will run correctly!:beerchug:
Click to expand...

Is there a calibration kit for s2000 injectors for a stage1 kit?
Also I hear people talking about breaking or cracking an FMU shim. What happens if this takes place in an FMU? Thanks
 
69chevydr said:
Is there a calibration kit for s2000 injectors for a stage1 kit?
Also I hear people talking about breaking or cracking an FMU shim. What happens if this takes place in an FMU? Thanks
Click to expand...

The shim is just a 1"x1" (approx) super thin stainless steel flat piece that possibly gets a tear or crack in it. You just split the halves of the FMU and stick it between the 2 diaphrams and its good to go. Alot of people update their FMU with a thicker shim and rarely have problems. I've been running on the same one since 2005. :whistle:
 
Last edited:
fstbusa said:
The shim is just a 1"x1" (approx) super thin stainless steel flat piece that possibly gets a tear or crack in it. You just split the halves of the FMU and stick it between the 2 diaphrams and its good to go. Alot of people update their FMU with a thicker shim and rarely have problems. I've been running on the same one since 2005. :whistle:
Click to expand...
What affect will it have on the fuel pressure if it cracks or breaks?
 
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