FI light, no prime

Busaboy1488

Registered
Hello everyone, I know this is beating a dead horse as I’ve read through the different threads on this issue, but I’m lost and even though I’m an electrician, low voltage isn’t my thing I guess.
Anyhow, here is what happened and what I’ve done.
So the other day I was riding and went to get gas when my key broke off in my gas tank. I was able to get the key out and use it in the ignition to get home. I ordered a new ignition kit, and upper triple tree. I also ordered a 12volt plug for my radar. Got everything apart and installed the new stuff using the white and brown plug on the right side by turn signal for power to the plug. Got everything buttoned up and FI no start. No prime.
So started with the fuel pump, put power to it and it works but when using test light, yellow/red wire doesn’t light.
So, go to relay. Can’t hear clicking so pull it out. There are four wires. Yellow/red, yellow/ black, red/blue and orange/white. When I put power on relay to orange/white and ground to yellow/black I can hear the clicking but get no power at the other connections. Even reversing the two, get the clicks but no power anywhere. When I plug it in with my pigtails I made, still get nothing until I touch ground to yellow/black. When I do this and turn the key the pump comes on but, it stays on.
Is this a bad relay or is there a broken ground somewhere? I’m lost. I’ve checked every connection under the nose piece they all look good. Could it be something with the new ignition? It’s an aftermarket one for the year and model and wires look right but I literally rode it with no issues till the key broke off and I replaced everything. Not sure what the white and brown wires are that I used to power the plug but I saw on here that was the wires people were using for this purpose.
Any help would be appreciated, ride safe

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Thinking about it it seems like there is a bad ground on the yellow/black wire but what’s stumping me is the fact that it stays on when grounded not the regular 10 second prime. And yes, the fuse is good
 
it was fine until switch swap so thats the place to look
dont play around with other wiring till working correctly
I agree but, I can’t change out the ignition as I broke it to get the key out to open gas tank and rear seat bubble. The switch with start button, hazards and kill switch works fine and no other wires look loose. Like I said I don’t know what else to do now that I checked the fuel pump and relay. Not exactly sure how the relay is supposed to work. I know once powered it makes a connection to start the fuel priming but what wires do what and when is key and without a manual I’ve no clue. Wish I could find a schematic or even better a flow chart would be awesome lol
 
Thinking about it it seems like there is a bad ground on the yellow/black wire but what’s stumping me is the fact that it stays on when grounded not the regular 10 second prime. And yes, the fuse is good
The reason it stays on when grounded is that the ‘10 second prime’ is timed and switched by the ECU.
You have bypassed the ECU with the wiring add-on that you’ve put on the circuit.
 
I know there have been many that’s why I said beating a dead horse, however, none really explain my issue. I am clueless when it comes to tracing wires in a harness just frustrated I guess
 
Welcome to the forum.



Manuals we got. Just have to find the urls. What year is this bike? Any major mods (engine/computer)?
It is a 2006. The only mod is a TRE. But it’s been that day since the beginning. I ordered a new relay so I’ll see if that fixes it. If not I guess I’ll have to chase down the ground and see if maybe it got pinched off when assembling together. The ignition was off Amazon and yes it was cheaper than OEM. However, the wires match up and I’ve cut the pigtail off the OEM and hotwired it and it does the same thing.
 
The first red flag here is the ignition swap. If you got a cheap China unit on ebay, it is not likely to work correctly. Make sure the kill switch is in the correct position too.
So you were right, it is the ignition I purchased off of eBay. Apparently the aftermarket ones do not have the 100 ohm resistor needed. I found this out after hours of searching and reading posts on here. So now I have to find a 100 ohm resistor but more importantly I need to figure out where the heck it goes lmao‍
 
So you were right, it is the ignition I purchased off of eBay. Apparently the aftermarket ones do not have the 100 ohm resistor needed. I found this out after hours of searching and reading posts on here. So now I have to find a 100 ohm resistor but more importantly I need to figure out where the heck it goes lmao‍
You can sometimes find full used sets that include ignition, gas cap and trunk lock for affordable price.
 
HALLELUJAH it’s fixed!!! Added a 100ohm resistor that I tore out of the old ignition soldered it between a cut in black/white wire on key side and BINGO!
My only question now is that it looks like when the key is turned b/w wire connects the o/y wire with the resistor in between the 2. Hard to tell X plain but here’s a pic of what I mean. When the key is turned a connection is made between resistor and o/y. What does the o/y wire control? I’ve looked for a schematic but all I can find is 2nd gen wiring. Anyone have any links?
Thanks for everyone’s input on here, y’all are great. Be safe out there and if you feel a blast of air pass you, it’s probably me! Catch up lol I’ll buy you a beer.
 
HALLELUJAH it’s fixed!!! Added a 100ohm resistor that I tore out of the old ignition soldered it between a cut in black/white wire on key side and BINGO!
My only question now is that it looks like when the key is turned b/w wire connects the o/y wire with the resistor in between the 2. Hard to tell X plain but here’s a pic of what I mean. When the key is turned a connection is made between resistor and o/y. What does the o/y wire control? I’ve looked for a schematic but all I can find is 2nd gen wiring. Anyone have any links?
Thanks for everyone’s input on here, y’all are great. Be safe out there and if you feel a blast of air pass you, it’s probably me! Catch up lol I’ll buy you a beer.
Looks like B/W is common ground from the battery throughout the complete harness and O/Y goes from ignition switch to ECM. I’m thinking thinking the O/Y is some signal the ECM has to receive from the ignition switch and by Adding the resistor, it takes care of that problem.
Glad you figured it out and she is back to normal. Be safe out there, because things happen very fast on a busa.
 
@Berlin Germany can you advise on a url for the service manual for a post 2002 busa?

man ?

download the gen1 manual and its extensions (updates) here
and mechanically youre top informed.
 
man ?

download the gen1 manual and its extensions (updates) here
and mechanically youre top informed.

He has a 2006 and is working on the wiring. I thought those early manuals might have differences?
 
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