FI error code C040

[rubbersidedown]

040 is not on the list. I recall the code being traced to a turbo issue and also to a bad clutch switch.
The symptoms...
Motor starts fine,idles fine,runs fine.
Then it feels as thou ignition or fueling has been cut.Resembling ignition cut more than fuel starvation. This coincides at the exact moment the code shows.
Before putting it in dealer mode the FI light came on. Now I just get the code.
Motor cuts off smoothly,RPM's drop. If I get back on the throttle gently I can keep the motor running enough to get pulled over.
Kill the ignition. Wait a couple minutes. Key on,flashes back up,error code gone,idles fine,off we go.Runs well again.
Can be 5 minutes or 20 and the same thing happens. It resembles being in gear,key on,rolling along and hitting the kill switch.
It coughs and backfires while I limp it along to get pulled over.
Pull over...rinse and repeat. I have never had a clutch safety switch "go south on me" before,so I'm new to this issue,if thats what it is.
Could be connected to an' issue I am having with a sensor on the turbo,and an' error message on my AMS 1000 but when I had that same sensor "give up the ghost" on me previously...it did so without any running issues as I have now.
Thoughts,idea's gentlemen....

Rubb.

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

I think the clutch switch error is "C"40.

 

[rubbersidedown]

I think the clutch switch error is "C"40.

Ya 40 is what I got. I'm so rattled right now with "other issues". Just a bit ago I was in the parkade working on the Busa. Had an "interaction" with local dirtbag tweeker crim...he was in a car. Cops...bla bla bla. Like I need this.
Rubb.

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

Oh duh on me, forget that I wrote anything. You had the code in the thread title.

So now that I wrote something stupid it is imperative that I contribute something. When the problem happens quickly put a voltmeter across the battery (battery charger dongle works if you have that hanging out.) I am concerned about a ground issue and the ground side not being at zero volts. I do not think this is likely the way you care for your bike, but at least it is an elimination step. For any distinct grounds that you know, like the ECU wire, fuel controller, etc. inspect those connections.

 

[rubbersidedown]

Oh duh on me, forget that I wrote anything. You had the code in the thread title.

So now that I wrote something stupid it is imperative that I contribute something. When the problem happens quickly put a voltmeter across the battery (battery charger dongle works if you have that hanging out.) I am concerned about a ground issue and the ground side not being at zero volts. I do not think this is likely the way you care for your bike, but at least it is an elimination step. For any distinct grounds that you know, like the ECU wire, fuel controller, etc. inspect those connections.

Worth a shot,I'll try anything at this point.
Rubb.

 

[hayabuser]

Clutch safety switch failure is more common on Suzukis than you might imagine. I replaced a number of them while at Action... mostly a Honda thing but a few 'Zooks went under the knife for the same malady.

This didn't start just after you washed your bike, did it?

 

[rubbersidedown]

Clutch safety switch failure is more common on Suzukis than you might imagine. I replaced a number of them while at Action... mostly a Honda thing but a few 'Zooks went under the knife for the same malady.

This didn't start just after you washed your bike, did it?

negative Boss. But....hehehe.... maybe those cheesy levers I installed?
Pazzo's back on,seems better,but not 100%. Maybe cheap chinese merch damaged the switch?
Maybe tied to the turbo issue I am having?
As a hot wire comes from the clutch switch to the AMS turbo controller.
Here's a cool thought,my best friend. What if one of the good switches from one of your awesome rides was loaned out to the sick Busa to test the clutch switch theory. Action and everybody is closed today, and I wouldn't mind taking my "new friend" hot Porshe girl out for a ride later on.
Easy removal as you know,I roll up,grab part,roll out and report later. Safe return of the switch is garaunteed and/or new one returned.
While picking up said part,I could accidently leave a custom Hayabusa backpack on your doorstep.
Whatchu think....

 

[Mr Brown]

The clutch safety switch is tied in to the ECU map. It's likely that this is the cause of at least one of your issues. No way of telling what effect it's having on your particular map, but it's definitely a problem.

 

[rubbersidedown]

The clutch safety switch is tied in to the ECU map. It's likely that this is the cause of at least one of your issues. No way of telling what effect it's having on your particular map, but it's definitely a problem.

Jeremy I like your thinkin'. I believe this may solve a couple of the issues that I have....with my Busa that is.

Its been challenging. Last time I needed a code it was the 2003 (two,knot,knot,tree) on a Gen I. The dealer mode plugs differ,so I had to go with memory. I know...
The thing should have blown up by now with me as chief cook and bottle washer.
O'well...this is fun.

Right...

Rubb.

 

[hayabuser]

negative Boss. But....hehehe.... maybe those cheesy levers I installed?
Pazzo's back on,seems better,but not 100%. Maybe cheap chinese merch damaged the switch?
Maybe tied to the turbo issue I am having?
As a hot wire comes from the clutch switch to the AMS turbo controller.
Here's a cool thought,my best friend. What if one of the good switches from one of your awesome rides was loaned out to the sick Busa to test the clutch switch theory. Action and everybody is closed today, and I wouldn't mind taking my "new friend" hot Porshe girl out for a ride later on.
Easy removal as you know,I roll up,grab part,roll out and report later. Safe return of the switch is garaunteed and/or new one returned.
While picking up said part,I could accidently leave a custom Hayabusa backpack on your doorstep.
Whatchu think....View attachment 1624570

As much as I would be happy receiving that backpack, none of the bikes in my garage have a compatible clutch switch. Yours is PN# 57560-02FA0 (about $20-30, give or take) and is used for bikes with a hydraulic clutch. All of mine are cable clutches which use a different switch.

I have the right switch on my '05 Busa, but it's still 4300kms away....

Sorry dude.

 

[rubbersidedown]

As much as I would be happy receiving that backpack, none of the bikes in my garage have a compatible clutch switch. Yours is PN# 57560-02FA0 (about $20-30, give or take) and is used for bikes with a hydraulic clutch. All of mine are cable clutches which use a different switch.

I have the right switch on my '05 Busa, but it's still 4300kms away....

Sorry dude.

Gosh darn it...beat by "Old technology"
Thanks for the effort Bro,means a lot.
I may not be riding today with the hot chic.
Rubb.

 

[hayabuser]

Gosh darn it...beat by "Old technology"
Thanks for the effort Bro,means a lot.
I may not be riding today with the hot chic.
Rubb.

I can take her out for you, she and I can pillow-talk Porsche Caymans. Shoot me her number.

 

[hayabuser]

So where did the clutch safety switch idea come from? When I looked up "C40", I got Idle Air Control error.

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

Ah, I did not get that from the manual but from several threads here which related the operation of both items. Check this out:

clutch switch problem.... | Busa problems

I'm hoping I can get a solution to an issue I'm having with my Gen2 powered Smart Car. I've got a low pressure hydraulic switch plumbed in-line with the clutch and when I put the clutch in and brake - I get a C40 code. I understand that to be an ICS valve code, but I've also found references to...

www.hayabusa.org

 

[rubbersidedown]

So where did the clutch safety switch idea come from? When I looked up "C40", I got Idle Air Control error.

I guess this will be my next move. Can you elaborate 'Buser?
Rubb.

 

[202mphbusa]

I also read something about resetting the idle speed controller with the SDS tool

 

[rubbersidedown]

The fault code I'm getting is C40, as @hayabuser stated. OK,cool. I'll check that....check a diagram make sure I have the right thingy...

There it is #9....

OK,lets check it out....

DOH! Where's my ISC valve ? Some builders (RCC Turbo's) remove the valve,plug the whole,cap the wires.
Going to figure out how to tell the ECU to turn off the ISC valve as @202mphbusa suggested above. It's a long shot but all I have right now.
Don't know what an' SDS tool is or how to use it. I've heard of going in telling the ECU to turn off the ISC which momentarily gets rid of the code,but the issue remains. How did the brain box turn the valve circuit back on?
Had Richard (RCC) on the phone. He had no advice except for a direction that I took this morning. The symptoms resemble a faulty TOS so I checked that. Ignition "on" shake the TOS get the correct error code C23. Functioning normally. But to be on the safe side,I imobilized the sensor,took it out for test ride. 1 minute in, same,shut down with C40.

I grow frustrated.

Rubb.

 

[Dai.]

Most likely related to your clutch switch as mine is throwing the same code,everything has been checked as per oem spec and reset through my SDS tool but keeps happening. Changed out 2 pressure banjo switches and still the same error,throw the oem M/C back on and the problem is gone.

Also could be possible which is taken from a factory manual.

1. ISC (Idle Speed Control) Valve or Circuit "Open" or Shorted to Ground.
2. Idle Speed lower than the Desired Idle Speed. ie. Air passage Clogged, ISC valve is fixed(Stuck), ISC valve preset Position is incorrect.
3. Idle Speed is Higher than Desired Idle Speed. ie. ISC Valve hose connection(line fell off somewhere), ISC Valve is Fixed(Stuck), ISC Valve preset Position is incorrect.

 

[202mphbusa]

ECU Editor has a ISC off box you can check.
I would assume it disables the error code do you have anyone local that can flash?

 

[rubbersidedown]

ECU Editor has a ISC off box you can check.
I would assume it disables the error code do you have anyone local that can flash?

Negative 202...I'm alone on an' island.(literally) Shops don't even have a chance of solving anything that is "custom." Couple guys around like member @hayabuser who are very knowledgeable guys,good tech skillz,etc. in shop day 2 day...not turbo etc.
Then there's me...I got 40+ years of fixing my own stuff. No ticket in anything,but I can work a microwave.
We have no dyno...no special equipment.
Rubb.