Engine can stall while riding

U

universolar

Registered
Hello, here is my problem with busa '99 :(

Some time while riding, when I start hard braking and the same time change gear (I fast apply clutch, go to one or two gear down and release clutch), engine can stall, I apply clutch and release it, engine start again.

At now when I riding, if I feel that engine can stall I apply clutch and open throttle one two time.. engine again work fine.

I already change and install - air filter new, new spark plug (NGK), I try change IDLE speed from 1000 to 1500 rpm, nothing change.

I just buy this busa from japan and already install BOZ Bros exhaust (muffer only) - Boz Bros Online Store
I didn't know have this problem on stock exaust muffer or not.
I will try intall again stock muffer, but may be any one can help me?

Also when busa work on idle, and I abruptly open throttle .. I see flame from exhaust muffer it's very bad?
and the last my question .. busa work on idle 5-6 min and the next... engine stall (sound like end fuel :moon:), I turn off ingition and start engine again.. work 5-7 min and stall again !!

thank to all for help and reply. :bowdown:

p.s. sorry for my english I'am from Russia, english language is not my native language so I write with poor grammar :(

Thank to all for help and reply.
 
My buddy has a 99. He had the same problem. He R2 his fuel filter, cleaned the junk out of his tank, and R2 the fuel pump. No problems now...
 
Hello.

ALL THIS HAPPENED when bike HOT! When I start engine first time & wait when temp go up.. 5-10 min. trip not have problem

Today I ride on busa to home after work day.. and on straight road when I try harshly open throttle (I fast apply clutch go to one gear up or go to one gear down, and release clutch).. bike start twitch!!!

My speed is 70-90 km/h and busa twitch like horse :( (it is very dangerous because on this road many car's). I apply clutch and slowly pull up by rear and front brake's. After I stop, I wait 2-5 min, then start engine again.. after 1-3 min riding (of course I change gear) bike engine again try stall or bike twitch.

I can say - if I ride slowly - engine try stall, when I ride fast after I change gear bike can start twitch of corse I apply clutch and as result engine try stall! When I ride on 4th-5th gear looks like not have problem.. but I can't always ride on 4-5 gear :laugh:

Also some time when engine try stall, I try twist throttle harshly or slow, bike didn't response to throttle (or can be response in this time - have luck!).
When engine try stall it's sound like fuel end in fuel tank!

Five year ago I have honda 400 ccm with carb's with old mechanic/vacuum fuel pump with switch - "RES/OPEN/OFF" position, so when fuel end or I forgot switch fuel pump to OPEN\RES.. bike lose traction and when you try open trottle - bike engine only wail and stall after 10-20 sec. if you in this moment switch fuel pump to - RES. position and 1-3 once twist trottle - you can ride

So on my hayabusa I feel same problem looks like fuel end, bike try stall ???
I think on fast speed bike can twitch because fuel can't come fast.. ?

Today I try disassemble and want check fuel filter in fuel pump.. I already check gauze in fuel tank.. gauze not cowed, if this small gauze not cowed, can be fuel filter in fuel pump dirty? :banghead:

Please take your advice.

Mr Brown
How I can check Fuel pump & throttle position sensor?

mike1180
thx, I try to do .. but still have problem.. read today my post.

Guys sorry for my english, just in my country I can't find help.. every one advice - CHECK AIR filter, CHECK may be you not have fuel.. I have bike six years so after I buy hayabusa.. I change air filter, spark plug, oil and tire, want change brake pads.. My problem sound like seriously and I can't understand what's happed with this bike :poke:
 
I have the full system boz brothers b2 exhuast, I also did the pair valve removal and added a pc3..i have no problems, but i did have a low idle and had to turn that up, and it did in fact run real rich until we mapped it with the pc3...being a 99 though i would assume it may be time to clean the fuel filter and the like out, also maybe the pump is going, i know they changed them to a different style pump on the newer years, for the same reason, maybe your is still original....the pumps do get hot after 10-15 minutes and have a protected thermal circuit in them....someone else may chime in with a better idea, but that where id start...
 
on this board there is a service manual for the Gen 1 Hayabusa. It'll have a good description of the fuel system. Check the fuel filter, the pump, and injector filters/screens. These would commonly clog on the 99's. Make sure all your fuel lines are nice and clear too. Youv'e already checked the gas tank so that should be fine.

It really sounds like a fueling issue.
 
When the bike stalls, lift the tank and feel the fuel pump. If it's hot to the touch, not war from the motor, but hot, it's bad. To check the TPS, jump the service port, ( do a search on here to learn how) and turn the kill switch on, then turn the key on. On your dash, where the clock is the lcd will say C00 To the left of the C is a bar. It needs to be in the middle of the three positions. (Top, middle bottom)
 
:poke:
okey.. what I do to this time..
I ride hard, then stop and lift fuel tank.. cut OEM boot on fuel pump (looks like it never opened), I feel fuel pump - COLD, all around HOT or very hot (frame, engine etc) but fuel pump cold, I not disassemble fuel pump at this time..

I install back stock OEM muffers.. start engine, engine work more stable, rpm not float on iddle. I install 1200 rpm's and 1400 IDLE - work very well on each, one time with few fuel in tank my busa stall on IDLE 1200/rpm after 5-6 min.

I make test for fuel pump as described in manual (called test - "fuel discharge amount inspection") - I check how much fuel pump back gasoline to fuel tank (on test of course I use bottle) per 30 sec. and yes it back 450 ml (+/- 10 ml) :whistle:

What I have now.. engine stall only one-two once for five days, on hard traffic on BOZ BROS muffers, my engine stall or try stall every 100-200 metres, sound good but :(

BUT I STILL have problem some time, when I fast open throttle, busa can accelerate or can ride on same RPM, looks like I not open throttle, I try open more, and then I FEEL hard kick and busa heighten RPM, if in this moment I close throttle, bike start twitch :moon: very hard, I apply clutch and braking by brake without engine or I apply clutch two once twist throttle, up gear or down and when release clutch.. bike ride as must.

Example - on highway I fast open throttle, busa up RPM, I change gear 2-3-4-5, on speed 130-180 km/h bike stop heighten RPM's when I try open more throttle, nothing happened (I have rpm's 5000-6000, I open throttle more and more.. then after 4-5 sec. rpm start heighten as must, at this moment (before acceleration) I feel push (not hard but not a nice too), I open throttle fast but bery smoothly.

I can't understand what happen.. in my city I can't find anyone who can help. This mechanic can only change air filter or brake pads (sound like joke, but I'm not joking)

I hear listen any of guess-work, may be I must check every jet? I never do this before.. after disassemble jet's I must tune ignition or some other system?

and last to this topic .. in japan on this busa installed hydro-mechanic tension
 
The language issue is causing a problem for us also. I'm trying hard to understand what you mean, but it's hard. Any way you could post a video of what the bike is doing? Maybe then we could help more. If you would like, send me a PM in russian, I can get it translated.
If, (and thats a HUGE if) I'm understanding you, the bike isn't getting fuel as it should. Go through your entire fuel system form tank to injectors and look for problems.
There are no jets for you to check or disassemble, it's fuel injected....
 
Last edited:
Mr Brown said:
If you would like, send me a PM in russian, I can get it translated.
Click to expand...
I send to you message in PM (2min ago), hope you can translate text that I send :bowdown:
if you understand & translate it, please post this translated text over here, may be some one try to help me too, just this is my last hope :(
 
universolar said:
I send to you message in PM (2min ago), hope you can translate text that I send :bowdown:
if you understand & translate it, please post this translated text over here, may be some one try to help me too, just this is my last hope :(
Click to expand...
I will post it as soon as I get it back.
 
Translation:
Here is the problem with my 1999 Hayabusa bike (no modifications)

I put back, on the bike, the factory exhaust pipes (the original ones, back onto it). (before that, I had installed Boz Bros exhaust pipes). So, when I put the original ones back on, the engine on the bike stopped stalling/dying, but some problems remained, still.

For example—when I turn the gas handle, the bike sometimes accelerates or it seems like it’s not doing anything at all, or the accelerating happens very slowly, as if I’m turning the gas handle very slowly. Or, while it’s accelerating and I stop turning the gas handle, the bike starts jerking, and if I start braking abruptly, and shift gears—the engine often just dies altogether.

Example—couple of days ago, I was riding the bike at about 100km per hour, rode about 10-15km, no problem..sometimes the bike feels like its “straining”, especially in lower gears, and the more I turn the gas handle, the more it “strains/pulls” and then it starts going fine. When I left the City, I started accelerating, -2 to 4th gear was fine, but when the speed reached 180km/hour (engine rotation (?)-5000-6000 per minute?), I continued/kept on accelerating (trying to, anyway), but the bike was NOT doing anything, it just kept on going at the same speed, it seems like. Then, all of a sudden, it started accelerating, but by then I actually needed to brake already, so I stopped turning the gas handle and it started jerking badly, plus it started giving off an almost gurgling type of sound.

Another example-I was in a city street, at about 80km/hour, then, on an empty street, I turned the gas handle and the bike accelerated to about 180km/h, and it did it pretty fast, but at 3000-6000 (rpm?), I noticed jerking. When I got to my garage, I propped the bike on the kickstand, put it in neutral and it the engine just died, about a minute later…..
 
Sounds to me like the bike is running very lean, like it's starving for fuel. If you've checked your fuel lines for kinks, and are sure it's not a fuel pump issue then I don't know what it could be.
Maybe somebody else will know.....
 
Mr Brown said:
When the bike stalls, lift the tank and feel the fuel pump. If it's hot to the touch, not war from the motor, but hot, it's bad. To check the TPS, jump the service port, ( do a search on here to learn how) and turn the kill switch on, then turn the key on. On your dash, where the clock is the lcd will say C00 To the left of the C is a bar. It needs to be in the middle of the three positions. (Top, middle bottom)
Click to expand...

hello

oday I put jumper to service port, and on clock display show _C00
the bar position is bottom
like on this pics
trotlesensor.jpg


no error codes

what I must to do with TPS, for adjust

thank you
 
Get a safety torx wrench, think it's size t-20, and loosen but don't remove the two bolts holding the tps on the clutch side of the throttle bodies. Move it very slowly until the bar is in the correct place (middle) then tighten. It won't move much, maybe 1/8 inch. It's easier with two people, but can be done alone.
 
On the early models('99, '00 & '01?) with the external fuel pump, isn't there a mod that people remove the small screen filter from one of the connection points. It's noted for getting clogged. Then an inline filter is installed as a replacement.

I personally have no experience with this, but I know I have read about it. It could explain a fuel delivery issue, especially under high demand.

Just a thought :thumbsup:
 
Mr Brown said:
Get a safety torx wrench, think it's size t-20, and loosen but don't remove the two bolts holding the tps on the clutch side of the throttle bodies. Move it very slowly until the bar is in the correct place (middle) then tighten. It won't move much, maybe 1/8 inch. It's easier with two people, but can be done alone.
Click to expand...
okey I do it yesterday at now the bar in the correct place (middle).

after all this operation I try start engine, work on hearing more stable.

I give to my bike work on IDLE - 10 (ten min!) - all okey!

I stop engine and start it again.. at this time on IDLE - I twist throttle 7-10 times.. work well, but after 6 (!) min. engine STALL, again!

Engine work 5-6 min and after this time at one / two moment I hear sound like engine drop 200-300 RPM and after this moment engine stall :(
 
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