EBC Pad Installation

[poops]

I am in the process of replacing the stock pads with EBC HH sintered pads. I just took out the stock, and now want to install the EBC's.

However, I am not able to slide them in. Do I have to sand down the pads a little? Do I have to squeeze the brake lever in order to release the pistons and allow a little more room to push in the pads?

I am at a loss. I thouught this was going to take no more than 30 minutes but it's going on 90 minutes now. I just cannot figure this out.

I appreciate any help or insight.

poops

 

[Big E]

anything you do. DO NOT COMPRESS THE BRAKE LEVER!!! Just slide the new pads in. Get a flat head screw driver. Tape up the end. Wedge it inbetween the pads and slowly seperate the pads. It takes a couple of mins to push back the pads enough for it to slide back onto the rotor.

Good Luck

 

[bacharles]

anything you do.  DO NOT COMPRESS THE BRAKE LEVER!!!  Just slide the new pads in.   Get a flat head screw driver.  Tape up the end.  Wedge it inbetween the pads and slowly seperate the pads.  It takes a couple of mins to push back the pads enough for it to slide back onto the rotor.

Good Luck

Let me just add to what BigE just said. All of what he said is true. But if you have a problem getting the pistons pushed in, just simply open the bleeder screw a little to take a little pressure off, and the pistons should go back in with very little effort. By no means should you compress the brake lever. All you're doing is pushing the pistons against the pad. I just installed a brand new set just last week and it only takes me about ten to fifteen minutes to complete. NO prob.


Brian

 

[poops]

Thanks Big E and BaCharles. I followed your recommendations and the new pads slid right in. Thanks much!!!

Now, is it absolutely necessary to bleed the brake line after this?

This board is absolutely fantastic!!!

 

[NearDeath]

only need to bleed the lines if you took the calipers apart or are getting sponginess and lack of braking ability while you depress the brake lever. (You will notice after you are riding the bike...)

You can bleed them right away if you are nervous about it... it is very easy. If there is air in the lines, the bike should still stop, but stopping may seem very light.

(Had to bleed my rears because I had to take the calipers off.)

 

[NearDeath]

If you do bleed the lines, keep in mind that the brake fluid will spirt out as you are bleeding... I laid down garbage bags right on the rim and continuing away from the bike about 3 or 4 ft.... (didn't have a hose that fit properly to the bleeder valve.) Then I bled the brakes and it shot out over the garbage bags which I just carefully picked up and through out.

The front brakes are little more tricky since they don't necessarily shoot out away from the bike... Be cautious on how the front tire is pointed while bleeding... If you spill on the rims,  wipe up immediately so it doesn't damage the paint.

I would take care that ABSOLTELY no brake fluid gets on the fairing paint.

Cloud



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[poops]

Well, just call me another EBC brake pad convert.

Just returned from a ride, and the brake lever feels WORLDS better. No need to pull the lever almost halfway to get a decent stopping distance anymore. The bike also stops eons better than when running stock pads. Now this is how a bike is supposed to stop!!!

I recommend this mod to anyone. Next up - Double Bubble.


Thanks for all the guidance.

poops

 

[NearDeath]

just changed mine on Friday... Can't wait till there broken in