Da Bugs motor then..... 3 yrs ago

What grade of gas did you have in it? I usually run Premium in mine. Regular will burn hotter, but I've always had good luck with Premium.
 
There are several dings/gouges in the #3 cylinder wall and the top decking! Can't decide what to do.... Suggestions?
 
Time for the big bore kit.  Not the 'Big Boar' kit!  More zoom.  Less pork.  
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You'll have to have the block honed to a larger size to get rid of the damage.  And of course all cylinders have to be the same size.  You'll have to replace the pistons with oversized ones, or you'll get too much slapping in the engine block.  New rings. Have the head cleaned and magna-fluxed to check for cracks and gouges.  If you need to get any grinding\filling on the head, have a good engine shop (that has experience working with aluminium) to do the work.  They will also need to make sure the head volumes are identical for all four cylinders.

It won't be cheap, but it'll run like a real beast when your done.  No need for a turbo right now.  Just think 1400cc big bore kit!



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Im dont know much about motors but couldnt you bore it out past the notches?
 
Bug will have to bore out past the notches and match all of the cylinders to the new size of the repaired one.  Either that, or he'll hve to replace the block.  I wouldn't recommend trying to fill and grind the damaged cylinder.  That will make the cylinder wall more brittle than the rest of the block.  It's a cast block, so it'll be hard to fill it correctly. Bad Mojo.

It will probably cost as much for a stock block and parts, as it will to bore all cylinders and upgrade the pistons.  I'll check around for the parts to see what the better path would be.

BTW...1400cc's will provide a whopping 186hp with all other parts stock.  84.0mm bore x 63.0mm stroke = 1398cc.  With a few minor upgrades you can get over 200hp.
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This is the same direction I'm thinking..... But,
1. Who would perform this service or where can I buy the parts?
2. Do I use my old block and have it reworked or scrape and start over?
3. What other components will have to be beefed up to handle the additional power?
 
That looks nasty! Go with the big bore kit. Are you gonna do the work yourself or send it out?
 
Please delete this post or post a link for God sake. I cannot stomach this. I'm dry heeving as I type this.
Seriously I would have the main parts checked for cracks, or if the head is warped. I think now would be a good time to do a total rebuild, cut trans, beefy clutch, cams, rods, bearings, killer head work, and 1397 kit.
 
Parts, call around the Salvage yards.
Right now there's a Head for sale on Ebay. The Seller is new and payment is by check. Bit of a red flag. But seen Heads on ebay a number of times.
 
im sure we have members in SC have them go check it out
 
Would this type of thing be repaired under warranty if the bike was still covered? I bought the extended warranty with my bike and I think I would push pretty darn hard to get it covered if it went boom. Even if I was riding the ^&*$# out of it at the time.

-Chris
 
Parts are moving very fast at those RPM's . Only one cylinder getting hit makes me think valve spring problem .

Questions :

How many miles were on this motor ?

Was the cams and springs stock ? What does the hurt cylinders exhaust cam lobes look like compared to the rest ?

Better yet because of how the dual springs are wound had anyone ever had the valve springs out ?
 
In order for Suzuki not to cover something under warranty they have to prove that the cause of the malfunction was due to your faulty maintenance or a direct effect of a modification you performed on the bike. A lot of dealers will tell people that it won't be warranteed because they know that they won't look into it any further or fight it.
 
Hey KS.  Does the top of piston 3 have any dents from the valves near the center?  If the valve spring is faulty, it would gouge the top of the piston, but only if the valve was almost open fully at TDC.  The valve reliefs in the piston should allow ample clearence for a partially open valve. You'd also have a bent valve that won't fully close, if the piston struck it.

The more I look at that piston pic, the more it looks like it was running too lean, and the piston detonated. I had a problem with my Yamaha running lean on it's #2 piston, and it blew a hole in the top of the piston. When I checked the carbs I found that the #2 carb had a clogged jet. The bike would run, but it would idle really rough when it was cold.

I would also have the injectors cleaned and checked.



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