Clutch problem
- Thread starter pluss400
- Start date
I'm going through this exact senario right now. I've changed everthing, and now the mechanic want to change the clutch basket. Is this a possible fix to the problem?
New clutch plates, fibers, springs, slave, master cylinder. Bled the system 3 different times.
It all started with a new chain and sprockets.
The mechanic mean still was air left in the system. He said Hayabusa is very difficult to bleed air from and he is a Suzuki specialist.
Some advise. Even if you use a vacuum bleeder you should work the leaver and turn the handlebars more than 20 min to be shore.
Another method. Take a syringe an fill it with brake fluid. Put a hose on it and open the nipple on the slave cylinder and connect it with the hose.
Press the syringe and observe when the brake fluid in container rise. It should now be ok.
Yes. Off course that is one of the foundations for it to work at all.
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For both of you with this problem. Especially if it started with a sprocket change. Remove sprocket cover.Open bleed valve,dont worry about air.Press the piston fully back into its bore.Close bleed.Make sure piston did not move out of its bore.Re-install. Now bleed.Use vacuum or the easier way I use,a 20 dollar one-way valve.That should fix the guy up who did the sprocket change.If that doesn't fix it,move on.(guy with clunking gears) Remove clutch cover and the stack.Check both the hub and the basket for wear marks.(grooves cut into the hub where the steels ride,and grooves cut into notches where the fiber tangs ride.(these grooves can be repaired on the cheap if nessecary to make sure this is the problem) Next check the steels for warpage sometimes visible by a marked area and a non-marked area(cupped) or get out the feeler guage(warped).
Other than that...lot's of gasoline...a match...and call yer insurance agent.
RSD.
Other than that...lot's of gasoline...a match...and call yer insurance agent.
RSD.
880jedi
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For both of you with this problem. Especially if it started with a sprocket change. Remove sprocket cover.Open bleed valve,dont worry about air.Press the piston fully back into its bore.Close bleed.Make sure piston did not move out of its bore.Re-install. Now bleed.Use vacuum or the easier way I use,a 20 dollar one-way valve.That should fix the guy up who did the sprocket change.If that doesn't fix it,move on.(guy with clunking gears) Remove clutch cover and the stack.Check both the hub and the basket for wear marks.(grooves cut into the hub where the steels ride,and grooves cut into notches where the fiber tangs ride.(these grooves can be repaired on the cheap if nessecary to make sure this is the problem) Next check the steels for warpage sometimes visible by a marked area and a non-marked area(cupped) or get out the feeler guage(warped).
Other than that...lot's of gasoline...a match...and call yer insurance agent.
RSD.
Is this procedure the same for all sport bikes, or is the Bus have a unique process? I trust the mechanic's shop, but if they are not all alike, we might be able to find the smoking gun.
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NO.Not the same for all sport bikes. Especially the ones with a cable actuated clutch.
If you want to trust your shop go ahead...
Enjoy yer busted Busa...
J/K.
RSD.
For both of you with this problem. Especially if it started with a sprocket change. Remove sprocket cover.Open bleed valve,dont worry about air.Press the piston fully back into its bore.Close bleed.Make sure piston did not move out of its bore.Re-install. Now bleed.Use vacuum or the easier way I use,a 20 dollar one-way valve.That should fix the guy up who did the sprocket change.If that doesn't fix it,move on.(guy with clunking gears) Remove clutch cover and the stack.Check both the hub and the basket for wear marks.(grooves cut into the hub where the steels ride,and grooves cut into notches where the fiber tangs ride.(these grooves can be repaired on the cheap if nessecary to make sure this is the problem) Next check the steels for warpage sometimes visible by a marked area and a non-marked area(cupped) or get out the feeler guage(warped).
Other than that...lot's of gasoline...a match...and call yer insurance agent.
RSD.
Ok. You seem to be the man.
I’ve separated the basket and checked every fiber and steel plate for damage. Can’t find any other than steel plates were shiny. On the basket nothing. I’ve really checked it out, not a mark anywhere. The only thing I haven’t done is checke the steel plates for warpage but with at a glance It didn’t seem anything wrong.
So. I´m going to take it all apart one time more and really measure steel plates and rub them up :thumbs:
I really hope this is the problem
lease:I lik speed!!!
1bondoman
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no need to rough the fibers or steels up,stack height is the most critical part.
Ok. You seem to be the man.
I’ve separated the basket and checked every fiber and steel plate for damage. Can’t find any other than steel plates were shiny. On the basket nothing. I’ve really checked it out, not a mark anywhere. The only thing I haven’t done is checke the steel plates for warpage but with at a glance It didn’t seem anything wrong.
So. I´m going to take it all apart one time more and really measure steel plates and rub them up :thumbs:
I really hope this is the problem
I lik speed!!!
1bondoman
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post some pics of the toasted basket
sportbikeryder
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If you bead blasted / sand blasted the driven steel plates, that may be the issue. You have created a much higher surface roughness on the plates, likely causing them to grab the drive plates (fibers) even when they are separated.
If you still have the factory components and have not performed a "clutch mod", check to see that the movable parts and ramps are not gouged or otherwise causing something unexpected.
If you still have the factory components and have not performed a "clutch mod", check to see that the movable parts and ramps are not gouged or otherwise causing something unexpected.
880jedi
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Will do, when repair is complete.
880jedi
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Well, still no joy. We changed the clutch basket, but the problem still is there. Now the Dealer Principal, (who also owns a Busa), will volunteer his bike to use as a donor for parts until they find out the hard shift problem. We are still leaning on a hydraulic issue, but some side by side companions with his bike next to mine will assist in the diagnosis. He agrees that no more throwing parts at it. Stay tuned.
880jedi
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Well, it's not good for me. The clutch is no longer the issue. Now all the folks are hearing a slight grind/clunk near the counter shaft sprocket when spinning the rear wheel, which might suggest a bearing is going out. I'll talk to the boss of the dealership (an ally, not the enemy) for the next step. Stay tuned.
I´m also in the believe that it is a hydraulic problem. Next week I´m going at it again and hope it will solve or I´m leaving it to the mechanic.
