Clutch problem


#1
Hi.
Problem:
When I press the clutch leaver to the bottom the gears wont go in. If they do a big clunk and a havy jerk results. With the leaver still press to the bottom the bike slitly pulse forword.
What I noticed is that when the leaver i 5mm from bottom the clutch react.
I have changed with a reparation batch the hydraulic at leaver and the hydra cylinder on the engine but no change.

Someone that knows something about this problem?

Have a nice ride.

IMG_0068.jpg
 
#2
I would start with the lever adjustment (if it is an adjustable lever), look at air/properly bled line as being an issue, look for leaks. Condition of the Master/slave cylinders. It's obvious that there has been lots of re-working on that bike, street fighter build, maybe it's beat on and you need clutch plates? Good luck.
 

dadofthree

Seasoned Beef
Donating Member
Registered
#3
:welcome: to the oRg :thumbsup:

Play with the lever adjustment and see if it helps. Make sure the clutch fluid is good and at the right level. Make sure the slave assembly near the front sprocket isn't cracked or damaged. Bleed that puppy for air.

If it lunges when put in gear and stalls it's a problem, what you described is close to normal. Your clutch might be a little sticky.

Has the clutch been worked on ?
 
#5
I would start with the lever adjustment (if it is an adjustable lever), look at air/properly bled line as being an issue, look for leaks. Condition of the Master/slave cylinders. It's obvious that there has been lots of re-working on that bike, street fighter build, maybe it's beat on and you need clutch plates? Good luck.
Thanks.
One question only.
Dos the diameter of the tube play a role. I mean 1mm more or less.
Everything is tight and I have bleed the system more than ones.
I will look for a leak some where.
 
#6
I would start with the lever adjustment (if it is an adjustable lever), look at air/properly bled line as being an issue, look for leaks. Condition of the Master/slave cylinders. It's obvious that there has been lots of re-working on that bike, street fighter build, maybe it's beat on and you need clutch plates? Good luck.
Hi and thanks for answering.
Master and slave are new and changed. No visible leaks. Measured clutch plates and they are in the tolerance what suzuki recommends.
When I press the clutch leaver the disk pressure plate lifts about 2mm. That’s wrong, not nearly enough.
Somehow when I press the leaver, that force does not effect as much on the salve cylinder that pushes the clutch.
I can’t find it. I change everything from the leaver to the slave cylinder??
 
#7
Hi and thanks for answering.
Master and slave are new and changed. No visible leaks. Measured clutch plates and they are in the tolerance what suzuki recommends.
When I press the clutch leaver the disk pressure plate lifts about 2mm. That’s wrong, not nearly enough.
Somehow when I press the leaver, that force does not effect as much on the salve cylinder that pushes the clutch.
I can’t find it. I change everything from the leaver to the slave cylinder??
did you bleed the clutch using a vacuum bleeder? if you didnt then there is air in the line.
 

RYC1966

Donating Member
Registered
#9
Is the slave cyl broke or flexing...just in front of the chain (front sprocket) a black plastic circle? Does the bike have a slave cly support / billet cover in that area...it seems simple but that may be a place to look at.
 
#10
Is the slave cyl broke or flexing...just in front of the chain (front sprocket) a black plastic circle? Does the bike have a slave cly support / billet cover in that area...it seems simple but that may be a place to look at.
I exchanged the slave cylinder with a new one. I have exchanged the master at the leaver with a renovate batch. Everything in the clutch hydraulic system is new. Everything is standard suzuki articles.
 

Professor

Hayabusa Immortal
Staff member
Administrator
Registered
#11
A warped plate can cause drag. Check to make sure they are not warped using an adequate flat surface per the service manual.

Also if the point of engagement is very close to where the lever meets the handlebar, you may have clutch stack height issues. You said the measurements were within tolerance. I have experienced issues if all of the plates are toward the low side. Stack all of the plates and measure to make sure the total is between 1.98 and 2.00” (50.3 and 50.8mm) Exchange thick steels for thin until you reach that measurement.
 
#12
I'm going through this exact senario right now. I've changed everthing, and now the mechanic want to change the clutch basket. Is this a possible fix to the problem?

New clutch plates, fibers, springs, slave, master cylinder. Bled the system 3 different times.

It all started with a new chain and sprockets. :banghead:
 

Professor

Hayabusa Immortal
Staff member
Administrator
Registered
#15
Not sure, but can the cover get cracked from taking it off to change the sprocket, or more likely it had been cracked prior to that? I hate to think that this was not checked on my first return visit.
If someone just started tightening bolts with a power tool, it would not be hard to crack it. More so if it was not on squarely or something was under it.
I've seen the break during normal operation, but it was usually when using heavier clutch springs. Look at it closely while having someone work the lever back and forth. You can see them flex if there is a crack.
 
#16
If someone just started tightening bolts with a power tool, it would not be hard to crack it. More so if it was not on squarely or something was under it.
I've seen the break during normal operation, but it was usually when using heavier clutch springs. Look at it closely while having someone work the lever back and forth. You can see them flex if there is a crack.
Would I (an untrained mechanic) be able to see this at home, or a visit back to the mechanic is in order?
 
#17
I dont care if you bled 5 liters through it,without a vacuum bleeder it will still have air trapped in the system.The old pump pump crack the bleeder method dont get it. that and make sure the sprocket cover isnt broke.
I bleed it for 1/4 liter. There can be no air left in the system.
Should it push the clutch more than 2mm?
Well It´s obvious that there is something strangely wrong.
 
#19
I dont care if you bled 5 liters through it,without a vacuum bleeder it will still have air trapped in the system.The old pump pump crack the bleeder method dont get it. that and make sure the sprocket cover isnt broke.
Off course I use a vacuum bleeder or I would stand there all day.
 
#20
I'm going through this exact senario right now. I've changed everthing, and now the mechanic want to change the clutch basket. Is this a possible fix to the problem?

New clutch plates, fibers, springs, slave, master cylinder. Bled the system 3 different times.

It all started with a new chain and sprockets. :banghead:
My started by just standing still over winter.
Its called “wet clutch systemâ€￾ and needs oil between the fiber and steel plats to work properly.
I got a tip that if the steel plates where shiny it would help sand blaster them so the steel plate surface can suck up oil.

Howe i see it
The plates do not separate enough.
The oil is not sufficient between plats.
Maybe worn down fiber plats.

Changing the basket is expensive but if it work then there is nothing to do about it.
I'm trying a new solution to day and I'm going to ask the mechanic what his solution is. You newer know maybe I get a answer.
Lets keep in touch to see a solution.
My email pluss400@hotmail.com
 

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