Even though it is relatively easy, I did promise some sort of write-up...so here goes:
Suzuki used to rate the difficulty of a procedure in the manual right next to it, but I don't see this in the GenII manual, so I'd give it a 2 out of 5. I don't have the exact amount of time it took to complete since I had to take breaks during, but I can easily see this being completed inside of an hour, depending how familiar you are with fairing removal and how much you plan on cleaning.
I've attached the section in the manual that covers front sprocket removal to supplement the pics I've already attached and to point out any caveats that I experienced. I'll follow the steps per the part of the manual attached and add my :2cents:
Step 1 - Left side fairing removal. (see Blanca's sticky on fairing removal in this section)
Step 2 - Put the bike up on the stand (if you haven't already done so). I usually do this first.
Step 3 - Remove gearshaft arm (see 1st pic). (10mm wrench) Prior to removing this, it says to make a small mark on the gearshaft head where the crease is for the pinch bolt. I did so, only with a Sharpie that wasn't permanent, so when I did all that deep cleaning, guess what happened to that mark? Gone. It's really no big deal to get it back to the appropriate place, plus I also took the opportunity to adjust it a little bit to give me more toe room to shift if I have on boots/hightops. A nice little adjustment to make your bike a little more custom fitting.
**TAKE NOTICE OF THE WAY THE FOLLOWING WIRES ARE ROUTED BEHIND/ALONG THE COVER AND GOING TO THE SPEED SENSOR AND KICKSTAND SWITCH SO YOU CAN CORRECTLY RE-ROUTE WHEN PUTTING BACK TOGETHER**
Step 4 - Remove the speed sensor. Very easy. One bolt, then pull the sensor out of that hole and off to the side out of the way. (4 or 5mm allen) 4.5 ft/lbs torque when putting this back on...so remember this went putting it back on.
Extra step - Remove the kickstand kill switch and let it hang off to the side as well. You can probably leave it attached, I just found it easier to clean with it off. It is a 12mm bolt I believe. There is a nut on the back that it screws into, although there appear to be threads already in the hole that it goes into so the lock nut can be secured with your fingers while tightening the screw. Mine had red threadlock residue on it, so I put some back on when I re-attached it.
Step 5 - Remove the sprocket cover (4 bolts (9mm) around the outside) and clutch release cylinder (2 bolts with the black hose/silver connector going to it). As said earlier in the thread, it took a little negotiating to get this off. The push rod is extending out behind the cover and going into the release cylinder about a half-inch, so be sure to pull the cover straight towards you rather than a lot of wiggling, which could damage the rod and cause leaking.
Once you finagle that bad boy off there, keep an eye out for the 1st pictured spacer that goes into the hole on the back side of the cover where the push rod connects to. Unless it's stuck in there from the grease, it'll drop once the cover is freed from the rod.
This is as far as I went, per the manual, in order to clean. I didn't see the need to remove the entire front sprocket when everything seems to be easily accessible from this point. Use whatever method you're most comfortable with for degreasing. I used some spray Goo Gone and Mean Green...a nice orangy/minty treat. Remember to use care on the push rod as it can be easily bent or damaged causing a leak.
Give the area substantial time to thoroughly dry.
Take pics so you have good visuals from inside and you can make other's jealous of your attention to cleanliness and detail.
Before re-applying the cover, place some new Suzuki super grease A on the rod, per the manual. (Don't go to the dealership looking for it though...they've never heard of it
Any kind of similar grease will work just fine).
Reverse the above order to reinstall the sprocket cover.
Remember to properly re-run the speed sensor and cable AND kickstand switch wires back behind the cover (as it was prior to taking it off).
Take your time getting the cover aligned with holes and rod (with the spacer in the hole on the back side of the cover in place). As you can imagine, since it took a little pulling to get it off, it takes a little bit less pressure to get it back on securely. As you are able to get the bolts to bite, it'll help to batten down the cover.
Re-attach the speed sensor.
REMEMBER...4.5 lb/ft torque
Reapplying the Gearshift arm:
If you made a mark on the gearshift shaft where the pinch is, simply slide it right back on and tighten the bolt. I made a slight adjustment by rotating it to move the lever up just a touch for larger toed shoes/boots.
Side note...something I learned: I lost a lot of time after re-applying the gearshift arm because I didn't know that the bike wouldn't go higher than 2nd gear with the bike not moving/running. Once I got it put back on, I turned the key to see the gear indicator on the gauges and moved the shifter through the gears to see if everything was OK and it wouldn't go past 2. I thought I'd jacked something up with the positioning of the arm on the shaft (making it higher or lower) and that it wasn't able to cycle through all the gears properly, which finally prompted me to take it off the stand and up and down the block for a test. Sure enough, I was able to cycle through all of the gears fine as before. I always assumed you could shift through all the gears with the bike not started.
Button her back up...give the chain a good lube, and you should be on your way. I hope this help. It worked for me...YMMV.
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