Checking the valve clearance

GSXTacy

Mr. January
Donating Member
Registered
Getting ready to do the valve clearance check and shim them if I need to. Has anyone done this and had problems. Are there any parts of the manual that arent quite right? Just looking to eliminate any mistakes that others have already made. TIA to all.
 
Chris -
How many miles you got? If you are less than 20K, more than likely you will just be checking the clearance and being done... remember that the TQ in the cover bolts is 10 ftlbs... do not over tighten them or you will strip the case...
Also, since you will have everything apart anyway, are you going to change plugs and do yer throttle body sync?
 
Chris -
How many miles you got?  If you are less than 20K, more than likely you will just be checking the clearance and being done... remember that the TQ in the cover bolts is 10 ftlbs... do not over tighten them or you will strip the case...
Also, since you will have everything apart anyway, are you going to change plugs and do yer throttle body sync?
+1 on that.  Also, remember to do the work on a COLD bike.  First thing in the morning or something like that.

If you have the Haynes book or the factory manual, you should be okay.  'Specially if you can add and subtract real good like.

wink.gif


--Wag--
 
umnik.gif


What they said. It's fairly straight-forward.

I'm trying to remember what the manual(s) tell ya to do....

But let's see:

* You don't hafta remove the fuel tank - just leave it on the prop rod
* You don't need to disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail on the t-body ass'y
* You will want to remove the two 'tabs' where the inner panels 'snap' into (this will make removing the valve cover easier.
* Be careful not to drop anything down the timing chain opening
* Loosen, but don't remove your spark plugs - this will make turning the crank a little easier. After yer all done, you can replace or re-torque the plugs. You don't wanna drop anything in there, either!
* When removing the valve cover, don't pull up right away. Use a small, flat-head screwdriver to carefully separate the valve cover from the gasket (it's rubber). If you do this, the gasket stays in place and you don't hafta mess with re-siliconing the 3 areas shown in the manual. It takes a little more patience putting the cover on, but at least you don't mess with the silicone.

Give me a call if you run into any problems.


--Omar
 
I first did mine at about 24,000. TWO of the valves were out by 1/1000th so I just put everything back together. I'll check it all again in about 7,000 when I do the next TB synch.

--Wag--
 
Back
Top