CHEC light, oil light on, not throwing codes, high temp

Bumblebee said:
Do you have a manual?

There is a section in the manual that talks about "CHEC" and what causes it to be displayed....

It says to check the wiring harness between ECM and speedometer couplings...

Removing the ECM would not resolve the issue as the "CHEC" display indicates there is no communication with the ECM....

There are a few things that interrupt that communication...side stand switch, tip over switch, on/off switch, blown ignition fuse
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I took out the ECU just to check if anything would change which didn't at the end, I am aware it won't fix anything. I don't have a manual as far I know, but there's a manual online anyways. about the other things that can interrupt the communication, where's the ignition fuse located? Is that the one under the seat? Because that has been swapped just in case even tho it wasn't blown. And it still won't fire up. On/off kill switch has been swapped and lubed up. Connections are not a problem for the kill switch either because I got new wires for it anyways too. Side stand switch and tip over switch is a good start to check it. Thanks
 
GaronjaM53 said:
I took out the ECU just to check if anything would change which didn't at the end, I am aware it won't fix anything. I don't have a manual as far I know, but there's a manual online anyways. about the other things that can interrupt the communication, where's the ignition fuse located? Is that the one under the seat? Because that has been swapped just in case even tho it wasn't blown. And it still won't fire up. On/off kill switch has been swapped and lubed up. Connections are not a problem for the kill switch either because I got new wires for it anyways too. Side stand switch and tip over switch is a good start to check it. Thanks
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The fuses are under the panel on the left side of the upper fairing beside the instrument cluster..

There wasn't a whole lot on the subject of "CHEC" in the manual...
 
GaronjaM53 said:
Update. Swapped the relay, lubed everything up in the fuse boxes and checked the wires that go to the battery, if they are maybe broken or something. Still no cigar, swapped the red switch as well multiple times. Again shows everything as it was. Then next what we did was we removed the ECU and turned the key. It stood exactly the same as it was before. Put it back in. Still the same. My friend says he's worried about the temperature gauge going hot.
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I made this video awhile ago, but you can see how the gauges behave at start up if all is well.

 
Here's a video explanation of what I did so far. Sorry for my Balkan accent haha, I hope you can understand me. I came home after gym and thought it would be nice to record the video. Hope this makes it more clear

 
Last edited:
You are changing parts hoping for a easy fix . Parts changing gets expensive . This is why a service manual leads you through no start conditions .
Without a meter you can not test voltage or ohms readings of relays contacts / switches , and items like coil resistance .
I can see the bike is quiet filthy , and has additional electric items tagged onto the battery .

Now I am not bashing you , but when you can not tell that a simple rubber fuse holder is broken and means noting , but you slightly consider it as a possibility you are out of your league sir .
I'm sure your friend is just helping to but spraying random elect fuse boxes with contact cleaner is not a normal fix in most cases , and when it is its due to water damage like flooding to X car or bike .
If you were in Houston Tx I would offer a quick in person look . Time to find a good wrench that knows electric testing .
 
I would say stop the “parts cannon” and start checking continuity/voltages to see if you have a broken wire/bad ground somewhere. Need at least a wiring diagram, which can be found for free online. You don’t need a super accurate high end fluke multimeter either, a $10 dollar Amazon “special” would save you from a lot of aggravation, cursing, headaches and wasted money.
 
c10 said:
You are changing parts hoping for a easy fix . Parts changing gets expensive . This is why a service manual leads you through no start conditions .
Without a meter you can not test voltage or ohms readings of relays contacts / switches , and items like coil resistance .
I can see the bike is quiet filthy , and has additional electric items tagged onto the battery .

Now I am not bashing you , but when you can not tell that a simple rubber fuse holder is broken and means noting , but you slightly consider it as a possibility you are out of your league sir .
I'm sure your friend is just helping to but spraying random elect fuse boxes with contact cleaner is not a normal fix in most cases , and when it is its due to water damage like flooding to X car or bike .
If you were in Houston Tx I would offer a quick in person look . Time to find a good wrench that knows electric testing .
Click to expand...
Well, I am not that good with time so I just check some easy stuff first then later on I'll have to take it apart when I am free, of course I am aware the chances of it fixing by itself are extremely slim but still worth the shot. While I don't have the multimeter yet I don't have that many options to check for. My friend had those spare parts and it was worth the try, we'll see!
 
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mabupa said:
I would say stop the “parts cannon” and start checking continuity/voltages to see if you have a broken wire/bad ground somewhere. Need at least a wiring diagram, which can be found for free online. You don’t need a super accurate high end fluke multimeter either, a $10 dollar Amazon “special” would save you from a lot of aggravation, cursing, headaches and wasted money.
Click to expand...
I agree, I am just short on time. My friend had spare fuses and relays and it wouldn't hurt to try it anyways. There's a shop near me that has a multi meter after work I'll have to get it.
 
GaronjaM53 said:
Well, I am not that good with time so I just check some easy stuff first then later on I'll have to take it apart when I am free, of course I am aware the chances of it fixing by itself are extremely slim but still worth the shot. While I don't have the multimeter yet I don't have that many options to check for. My friend had those spare parts and it was worth the try, we'll see!
Click to expand...
By itself* i mean like cleaning stuff up and all. And swapping fuses and relays I am just shocked it was only for 3 months or so, I didn't really think it would be that serious!
 
GaronjaM53 said:
I agree, I am just short on time. My friend had spare fuses and relays and it wouldn't hurt to try it anyways. There's a shop near me that has a multi meter after work I'll have to get it.
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Keep this thread updated. I’m sure I’m not the only one curious as to what you find the issue to be.
 
GaronjaM53 said:
Of course, I am always up for some tips. As soon I find anything out I'll post it!
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I know you said on your first post you made sure the bike was in neutral so this might be a stupid question but, is your neutral light coming on and “N” shows on the display? I ask because I had a gear position sensor act up on mine and had to replace it.
 
mabupa said:
I know you said on your first post you made sure the bike was in neutral so this might be a stupid question but, is your neutral light coming on and “N” shows on the display? I ask because I had a gear position sensor act up on mine and had to replace i
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It was on in video as well
 
Update: took it to a shop, i was in there while he fixed it and he did say he's pretty positive it could be a clutch switch or the kill switch. I told him I got both of them checked but we said let's check it out anyways. He grabbed a multimeter and checked both and it worked. Now we are scratching our heads. Checked every fuse and everything again. Nothing. Then we actually checked the ECU and ECU didn't give any sign of life. Swapped the ECU. Started right up.. ECU was fried?? But that didn't make any sense because there's no reason for it to get fried. Maybe there's a short? We opened the bike up, removed all of the fairings and everything looks good. Just some wire looked a bit broken, still worked but we cut it off and fixed it just in case. But that's it. Now bike works, rode it for 30 kilometers without any problems. Weird. Anyone got an idea why would that happen? The bike wasn't touched at all through the winter. So it can't be I did something to it.
 
GaronjaM53 said:
Update: took it to a shop, i was in there while he fixed it and he did say he's pretty positive it could be a clutch switch or the kill switch. I told him I got both of them checked but we said let's check it out anyways. He grabbed a multimeter and checked both and it worked. Now we are scratching our heads. Checked every fuse and everything again. Nothing. Then we actually checked the ECU and ECU didn't give any sign of life. Swapped the ECU. Started right up.. ECU was fried?? But that didn't make any sense because there's no reason for it to get fried. Maybe there's a short? We opened the bike up, removed all of the fairings and everything looks good. Just some wire looked a bit broken, still worked but we cut it off and fixed it just in case. But that's it. Now bike works, rode it for 30 kilometers without any problems. Weird. Anyone got an idea why would that happen? The bike wasn't touched at all through the winter. So it can't be I did something to it.
Click to expand...
I've said it before...that's a real head scratcher......

Weird things happen sometimes....
 
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