Changing swingarms

"regular riding"....with an 8" stretch:laugh: thats funny. if your gonna slam it,do yourself a favor if you have the $$ get the forks done
 
That is certainly a broad statement... building a bike for "regular riding" is like wearing no gear because you are only going up the street.
 
Not sure if you guys are talking to me but if you are...

What I meant was no drag racing/speeding through twisties. You know, like a regular ride to the beach or something similar?

Is there something wrong with "regular riding" and 8" stretch in the same sentence?
 
haha, I can only speak for myself but Im sure DevlDog will agree, it was not directed at you at all... dont take it personal... in general its just a broad statement.

A lot of people ask things that leave a lot to the imagination.

This thread gave enough detail that we were actually able to help you guys. :beerchug:

Just an FYI, not related, but this board is full of people who will shoot you straight and tell you the truth even if it hurts your feelings, so take it in stride assume positive intent.
 
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Yeah I guess I should have been more specific. At least now I know, thanks to you guys, the proper way to lower the bike specially with the stretch that I'm looking forward to.
 
Anytime. :beerchug: Glad you clarified instead of getting upset.

One more thing to remember, and this is pretty important, is that once the bike is lowered in the front you may find clearance issues with the levers when the steering is turned to the stop points.

Now let me be clear, this is not turning as in riding (leaning) in a turn, but more like a U turn in a parking lot.

The levers in most cases WILL hit the dash panels and could press enough to stop the bike or dis engage the clutch.

This is something that I find easy to deal with, but certainly note worthy for this discussion.
 
To clarify further, it depends on how the front end is lowered. If you have the forks, so to say, shortened there's no issues, if you use a temporary lowering strap there's no issue either. If you rasie the height of the top yoke where the handle bars (clip-ons) attach you can have problems. Depending on the manufacturer of a replacement top yoke it may reposition the bars further forward than OE and may cause clearance issues as well.

Simply lowered the front in and by itself wouldn't cause any interference since the position of the bars isn't changed.

:beerchug:

One more thing to remember, and this is pretty important, is that once the bike is lowered in the front you may find clearance issues with the levers when the steering is turned to the stop points.

Now let me be clear, this is not turning as in riding (leaning) in a turn, but more like a U turn in a parking lot.

The levers in most cases WILL hit the dash panels and could press enough to stop the bike or dis engage the clutch.

This is something that I find easy to deal with, but certainly note worthy for this discussion.
 
Dont get me started on speed bumps. :banghead: or loading in a trailer.

Devl... have you posted any pics of the FMF Expedition?
 
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I definitely understand about the speed bumps. For 5 years I've been driving my car slammed on the floor so I definitely am used to driving extra careful and learning the roads.

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Also, I do plan on shortening and revalving the forks with Trac Dynamics and replacing the rear spring. Instead of just buying adjustable links, I'm going for the whole package at once.
 
I am but I rarely get on there anymore. I lost interest in the TL and now I'm looking to do even trade for a Busa.
 
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