Changing swingarms

[fiend]

Next week I am going to be changing swingarms. I want to know if anybody has any time saving tips. Ive done a search and could not come up with anything useful. I will be trading the stock with and Adams strongarm. I will have the socket tool to get the swingarm off. Just trying to see if there are any fairly easy ways to do it. Thanks ahead of tiime!!!

 

[megawatt]

Hopefully there are some tips. I have my canadian Mike swingarm waiting to be installed when I have time.

 

[heavybusa]

Do you have a tranny jack or some way to keep the bike off the ground once the arm is off?

 

[fiend]

Do you have a tranny jack or some way to keep the bike off the ground once the arm is off?

Ropes through the rafters of the garage and the subframe. The tranny jack is not a bad idea either, I might do both just to be safe.

 

[RYC1966]

What year? I have a 07...with aftermarket rearsets...I put jackstands under the rearsets to lift it off the ground. Prior to lifting it up I broke the bolts loose...axel, brake bar, shock piviot, links, took the nuts off the bolt the holds the swing arm through the frame (both sides), links, and brake line. Removed chain and from wht I recall that is all the bolts. It might be easier if you remove the cans on your exhaust...less stuff in the way.

I believe that you could use an engine lift and straps to lift from the frame in the battery area...something solid...and tie the left and right side to prevent it from pivioting.

Good luck, Ryan

 

[big coop]

Make sure you have the right (Bearings) for the new swingarm.

 

[heavybusa]

Yep the jack stands work great if you have aftermarket rear sets.
So long as you have a plan thats all that matters.

On a similar note, for the CaMike arm or any Gixxer arm you will need the Gixxer shock pivot too.

Also, dont forget about a few details
1. Brake line, most times you can go out 6 inches by re routing it
2. a brake stop, the factory brake bar will be to short
3. the suspension height, depending on your weight the stock shock will not ride low with a passenger anymore so save your undertail and raise it up.
4. make sure you have a longer chain and chain guard

 

[megawatt]

Nice info heavybusa

 

[blownws6]

Very useful tips. this will help when I change mine.

 

[JMB]

What rearsets can hold up the bike with no problems? This is helpful, thanks for the tips.

 

[heavybusa]

No prob guys, I have done a few arms and learned along the way.

I have protekk rearsets, and they held fine... but I would guess that any of them with foot pegs that dont fold up like the stockers would work.

Most of the time I use the stands as a back up once its on the tranny jack but I did leave mine on stands for a few days by themselves and it was fine.

 

[SANDFLEA85]

you definately have to upgrade the rear shock, I went +6 on my 02, picked up a new shock on ebay for $70 and sent it out to traxxion dynamics,they rebuilt,resprung it to compensate for my weight and the stretch. difference was night and day as far as traction goes. a must if you stretch

 

[SANDFLEA85]

can see the difference with stock shock and upgraded shock, upgraded has 1"spacer and 1200lb spring

 

[heavybusa]

That is an absolute must have... Mine is not as fancy but I have an eibach spring on a stock shock, I think its from racetech.

 

[JMB]

Since we're in topic of lowering and stretching, allow me to ask something.

I plan on stretching 8-9" and lowering as much as I can without major rubbing. So far what I know is that I will need the new heavy duty spring in the back and I was also going to get the shortened and revalved front forks. Is there a need to just get a new shock and spring or will I be ok with just the new spring in the back? I weigh 270lbs btw.

I have spoken to Trac Dynamics and that's pretty much who I want to do all the work but they did tell me that the shorter shocks are for drag racing. I will need this for normal riding on the street.

Thanks for your help guys. I just recently joined and I have learned so much here.

<3 the oRg.

 

[heavybusa]

You will get a lot of answers here when you ask a "preference" question because we all use our bikes differently.
So I will start off by saying that I classify myself as a boulevard cruiser, I dont race, drag or otherwise, and I only care about being able to ride two up and not kill myself by bottoming out on a bridge. Flame away all you racers..

So with that being said, in the front I opted for heavier oil and upgraded valves and springs. I would so totally cut the spacer down so I dont have to slide my fork tubes up, and will do that next time the forks are apart.

As far as trac telling you thats for racing, again we go back to preference and opinion... In my opinion the front susp is crucial for turning and stopping so you cant neglect it especially when the bike is set up for stock height with a 170lb rider. So you have to make your own educated decision here, which is why I am sharing these details with you.

In the rear I have the spring above and tiger tail from Guy at tiger racing. The tiger tail lets me go as low as I want with out worrying about an udertail rubbing.

I aslo ditched the front tray under the nose so I can clear the fender.

With this I ride roughly 2-2.5 inch drop, with me being 6'5 290(ish) + passenger and not having any issues with turning or long rides.

With you going out 9 inches, you may want the longer tiger tail or an extended tail (all preference) but you will not be able to slam the bike with the stock tail because the tail light will be right over the tire... 4-6 has been the best for tucking the tire in the stock tail.

So you may need to ride a little higher in the rear even if you get the shock, but with out the shock upgrade be very careful not to rip the whole light assembly off.

on my wish list is a sidewinder so that I can go lower by getting the header off to the side instead of under the bike.

 

[fiend]

Thanks for all your help guys, I will try some of this out.

 

[heavybusa]

No prob, and sorry for the long response... I'm not an expert and dont own a shop or anything, I just do back yard wrenching and have lost a number of undertails and header pipes through this learning process.

 

[Commuta_Busa]

sorry this is a little off subject but I wanted to mention that if you're lowered far down AND run a sidewinder right turns are going to be almost impossible without hitting the pipe. Just food for thought...

With this I ride roughly 2-2.5 inch drop, with me being 6'5 290(ish) + passenger and not having any issues with turning or long rides.

on my wish list is a sidewinder so that I can go lower by getting the header off to the side instead of under the bike.

 

[heavybusa]

No doubt Commuta, thanks for pointing that out.

I have had luck with the 2" drop and regular pipes in the corners it just puts the plastics really close to the ground.

The scary part is when you dont invest in your suspension and you lower the bike to far, then hit a bridge transition at speed, the bike bottoms out and all but stalls out.