Changing coolant

MikeGraziosi

Registered
I'm helping a friend change the coolant in his '01 busa. I have concentrated Prestone coolant/antifreeze. What water/coolant mix is needed? Should I use Suzuki premix or is the Prestone good? I took the left and right fairings off and couldn't locate a drain plug/valve. Is there one or do I remove the lowest hose(s) to drain the engine and radiator? Is there any specific things I should look for or be aware of? Bike runs fine and engine temp is quite steady so I'm just changing it as we don't know if it was ever changed. Thanks, Mike
 
I'm helping a friend change the coolant in his '01 busa. I have concentrated Prestone coolant/antifreeze. What water/coolant mix is needed? 50/50 mix Should I use Suzuki premix or is the Prestone good? Any coolant for aluminum I took the left and right fairings off and couldn't locate a drain plug/valve. None. Is there one or do I remove the lowest hose(s) to drain the engine and radiator? Lower fine. Is there any specific things I should look for or be aware of? Burb the air out. Side to side motion with u sitting on the bike with the cap off,bike fairly warm/squeeze lower hose repeatidly Bike runs fine and engine temp is quite steady so I'm just changing it as we don't know if it was ever changed. Thanks, Mike
Run the system thru with clean water. Distilled water is the best,but not absolutely critical. Available at auto parts stores,sometimes drug stores,etc.
Got a manual for the bike? What year is it?
Rubb.
 
jepp rubb - thx again and a lots of times for your link :bowdown:
because @MikeGraziosi seemingly has no manual :crazy:
As long as that link works,I'll continue to post it.
Its just so easy.Clic the link.Choose yer book.Go to contents.Pick yer page.
It can be downloaded,blablablah...but for an answer in 30 seconds,it rocks.
Just make sure the coolant you are using is silicate free because if you don, t it will take out your water pump in a hurry Don, t ask me how I know :banghead: :thumbsup:
This is good advice. Coolant is divided into 3 the main types. Thats a long story so we'll skip that. Perhaps we would be best to just tell those asking to just buy whats offered from Zook or perhaps Engine Ice(never tried it,can't give an' opinion) if yer a fan of that.The Zook pre-mix will work every time and hopefully be 50% distilled water.(never used it) Distilled water will be better down the road as it was in "the old days" for topping up a vehicles battery. LOL. A modern type for use in aluminum is usually a safe bet as opposed to the old "green stuff."
As with most questions posed here,the search feature can usually get a newbie a good walkthru,sometimes even with a members own youtube video or link. Sort of like when a new to the forum member comes on,asks a question which sounds like it came out of an' androids mouth and doesn't follow the desired procedure of intro/pics/bio...I gave up on that years ago. Its nice when they come back and maybe say "thanks" but that just isn't the way any more (sometimes).
Some members get irate..."Use the search..." "This thread is useless w/o pics" O well. Sometimes its just qwiker to go ______ done.
Rubb.
 
I use the red colored coolant made for European vehicles, its easier for me to see in the overflow bottle.
 
grin @xc700

no matter what color it is - okay, the color sometimes gives a good indication, but I would not rely on it.
because even the european coolants differ in, i guess, three main types which are not ! compatible .

main thing to have both eyes on is the type of the coolant ingredients.

if the coolant is silicate based, keep away like evil from the holy water (see @busafan08 ´s post)

so when i have to change the coolant (every 2 years) and if i have no clue what kind of coolant was filled in,
i usually rinse the system at least 2 times with water,
because some coolants are not compatible at all and foam or even a kind of gel forms in the system and then "good night" :devil: :banghead: :crazy: cooling.
 
grin @xc700

no matter what color it is - okay, the color sometimes gives a good indication, but I would not rely on it.
because even the european coolants differ in, i guess, three main types which are not ! compatible .

main thing to have both eyes on is the type of the coolant ingredients.

if the coolant is silicate based, keep away like evil from the holy water (see @busafan08 ´s post)

so when i have to change the coolant (every 2 years) and if i have no clue what kind of coolant was filled in,
i usually rinse the system at least 2 times with water,
because some coolants are not compatible at all and foam or even a kind of gel forms in the system and then "good night" :devil: :banghead: :crazy: cooling.

1623717


Rubb.
 
What water/coolant mix is needed? Should I use Suzuki premix or is the Prestone good? I took the left and right fairings off and couldn't locate a drain plug/valve. Is there one or do I remove the lowest hose(s) to drain the engine and radiator? Is there any specific things I should look for or be aware of?

I have a friend with 6 bikes, the oldest of which is 16 years old. All bought new, non have ever had any fluids changed except oil and he says they all run good. I'm not recommending neglecting maintenance, just saying, this guy loves to ride but he hates to wrench. If you're like that guy, you can do more harm than good.

Here's everything I know about changing coolant in the busa.


Typically, you mix concentrated coolant 1 part : DISTILLED water : 1 part, just read the bottle. Pre-mixed, you don't dilute, just use as is (but don't get premixed because your paying more and more importantly read the final paragraph on this reply). If you vary much from the 1:1 mixture, the engine could corrode or the coolant may dissipate heat less effectively.

Prestone?...here's where you might be better off not wrenching. "Don't use any coolant that is not recommended for use in a motorcycle," that is what I have been told. The main concern is what it might do to an aluminum engine. Don't risk it. Just knuckle under and save that Prestone for the car you bought it for. Buy Suzuki coolant. It's recommended for your bike and it should be what's in there now. Suzuki doesn't recommend mixing different brands of coolant. Unless you flush the system exteremely thouroughly, you will have some of that old coolant left in there. You won't change coolant again for years so might as well do it right.

Distilled water is the best,but not absolutely critical.

Have to disagree with you on this one Rubb. I have been told it is extremely critical that no tap water enter the cooling system. It will leave deposits that clog and removing those deposits entails using chemicals that are less than desirable if you can avoid them. Use ONLY distilled water. Don't use purified water, it must say "distilled" on the lable. It should be free of dissolved solids like calcium that could precipitate out of the liquid in the cooling system. I've heard some say it's fine to use water from the garden hose to flush as long as you give it a final flush with 100% distilled water. From what I have observed, that's not completely safe either.

I normally come up with overly dilluted coolant after I flush with distilled water. Why? It's impossible to get every last drop of flush water out of the engine. I estimate there must be at least 8 fl oz of liquid that stays in the motor after thoroughly draining it even if all hoses are removed to empty them. SO if there is always flush water left behind after you drain the system, it will not be pure water if you ever used tap water during your flush, even if you did a final flush with distilled water. I don't think it's possible to get every drop of tap water out no matter how thoroughly you flush with distilled.

Speaking of this overly diluted coolant, you can deal with it by not filling the radiator right to neck when you replenish with fresh coolant. Run the bike a few days and check the coolant strength. If your coolant is too weak, add a few ounces of concentrated coolant undiluted and run a few more days. Test coolant strength again. Still weak? You might want to drain a quart or so and then add coolant that is mixed with distilled water about 1 part water : 3 parts coolant. Run it again and test. It takes a while but eventually the coolant and distilled water gets to the proper ratio. If you are as anal about this as I am, you can do the final flush with brand new 50/50 coolant distilled water. That's right, pour it in and flush it through then drain it. What's left in the system now is very close to the proper mixture. Richen up that final flush with additional concentrated coolant and pour it back in. Ride and test as described previously....or just toss out that final flush of 50/50 and add new 50/50. It's expensive but you can get the proper mix in there ASAP. This whole spiel I just gave is the reason I never buy premixed coolant. You can't richen up what you have in the bike very effectively if what you richen up with is already diluted.

If you don't flush, you will avoid this whole hassle but you will have some of the old coolant left in the system. It's like changing oil, you can't get every last drop out.
 
I use the same antifreeze in all my bikes and snowmobile ,I got a couple overflow bottles that are just slits and hard to see the coolant level that why I use the red stuff, just make sure you flush out the old stuff and use non silicate antifreeze like everyone said. I am lazy so I buy the premix so I don't have to mix it Suzuki does not make antifreeze, oil or brake fluid they just buy it from a manufacture and resell it to you at an inflated price.
 
what i found at "Hella" page
is this : (i qoute it 1:1)

COOLANT, ANTIFREEZE AND CORROSION PROTECTION: BASICS

Coolant is the generic term for the cooling liquid in the cooling system. Coolant protects against frost, corrosion, overheating and lubricates. Its task is to absorb the engine heat and dissipate it via the cooler.

The coolant is a mixture of tap-water and anti-freezing compound (glycol/ethanol) mixed with various additives (bitter substance, silicate, antioxidant agents, foam inhibitors) and colored. Bitter substances are used to prevent the coolant from being drunk inadvertently. Silicates form a protective layer on the metal surfaces and prevent e.g. limescale deposits. Antioxidant agents prevent corrosion of components. Foam inhibitors suppress the foaming of the coolant. Glycol keeps hoses and seals smooth and raises the coolant’s boiling point.
Refilling coolant: coolant

The mixing ratio of water and antifreeze should lie between 60:40 and 50:50. This usually corresponds to antifreeze protection from -25°C to -40°C. The minimal mixing ratio should be 70:30 and the maximal 40:60. Further increasing the proportion of antifreeze (e.g. 30:70) does not lower the freezing point any further. On the contrary, undiluted antifreeze freezes at around -13°C and does not dissipate sufficient engine heat at temperatures above 0°C. The engine would overheat. As the boiling point of glycol is very high, the boiling point of the coolant can be raised to up to 135 °C by using the right mixing ratio. Therefore, a sufficient antifreeze share is important even in warm countries. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions. A typical composition could be 40%/60% or 50%/50% with the use of inhibited water (drinking water quality).

The coolant and its additives are subject to a certain wear, i.e. part of the additives will be used up in the course of some years. If, for example, the corrosion protection additives are exhausted, the coolant turns brown. Therefore, some manufacturers specify a coolant replacement interval.
 
Is the silica style coolant even around much these days? Aren't most modern cars switched over to a non-silica coolant? My Ram truck uses a non-silica type coolant and so does the wife's Ford car.

The coolant in my bike is green-not sure what kind it is as it came with it but imagine it's the non silica type.
 
I have a friend with 6 bikes, the oldest of which is 16 years old. All bought new, non have ever had any fluids changed except oil and he says they all run good. I'm not recommending neglecting maintenance, just saying, this guy loves to ride but he hates to wrench. If you're like that guy, you can do more harm than good.
16 years huh...and I get the gears for cleaning out with tap water. :laugh:
Actually,I use only Artesian Spring Well water. It's nice and fizzy.
Rubb.
 
Is the silica style coolant even around much these days? Aren't most modern cars switched over to a non-silica coolant? My Ram truck uses a non-silica type coolant and so does the wife's Ford car.

The coolant in my bike is green-not sure what kind it is as it came with it but imagine it's the non silica type.

The green coolant might have been Kawasaki Aluma-Cool. I'm pretty sure the coolant in my busa was green the first time I changed coolant. I was unable to find Suzuki coolant that wasn't premixed. Maybe concentrated Suzuki coolant is scarce for some reason. I have seen it for sale online.
@Mythos


I 1:1 quoted your great posting from Oct 24, 2012 and posted it as a pdf-file for download here on my server.

I hope for your approval.
if not, please send me a short message and I will delete the file immediately.

Absolutely, Berlin! I'm honored you have chosen my tutorial. Thank you. Glad to help spread the word.
 
Back
Top