Chain EK 3D 120
- Thread starter Plague4u
- Start date
You would be wise to pick up a chain tool like what's in the link...this is Amazon but you can go wherever you like.
You have to size the chain to your application-if it is 114 links, then this is what your new chain needs to be...check the manual.
I would like to mention the OEM chain on these bikes is a pretty darned good chain, there are many members here who have tens of thousands of miles on the original with zero issues...you must have a lot of miles on your bike to require a new chain already....
You have to size the chain to your application-if it is 114 links, then this is what your new chain needs to be...check the manual.
I would like to mention the OEM chain on these bikes is a pretty darned good chain, there are many members here who have tens of thousands of miles on the original with zero issues...you must have a lot of miles on your bike to require a new chain already....
TonyM995
Registered
Anyone planning to install a chain should have a chain tool.
Just put the new one on your bike and see where the axle ends up in the swingarm. Based on the sprocket sizes you have, it may need to be shortened.
I use an RK Chain Tool. Cheap chain tools can break and then you still have to buy a nice one.
www.sportbiketrackgear.com
My 47t sprocket is too big for the stock chain. A 45t fits but puts the axle to the very front of the dropout which I don’t like. I’d prefer the axle in the middle or towards the back.
Just put the new one on your bike and see where the axle ends up in the swingarm. Based on the sprocket sizes you have, it may need to be shortened.
I use an RK Chain Tool. Cheap chain tools can break and then you still have to buy a nice one.
RK Chain Cutter & Press Fit Rivet Tool
Purchase the RK Chain Cutter & Press Fit Rivet Tool from SportbikeTrackGear.com. Get the lowest price, free shipping deal, easy exchanges and no restocking fees - Guaranteed!
My 47t sprocket is too big for the stock chain. A 45t fits but puts the axle to the very front of the dropout which I don’t like. I’d prefer the axle in the middle or towards the back.
Like it was posted above check your length, but if you're not changing sprockets, you can just match the chain length.
You're going to need a rivet style EK 3D master link, one comes with your new chain.
You can press the factory pin out of the side plate without grinding. Just put a chain breaker tool on it, and press out one of the pins then press out the pin on the adjoining side plate link and you'll have two center links with no side plates. With the clutch in neutral pull out the chain and lay it flat on the floor.
A lot of folks like to put a little piece of safety wire through the chain you're pulling to pull the new chain in place but first you need to get the length right.
Take your new chain line it up alongside the old chain, take out the six links, and it should match in length side-by-side.
Removing links from an EK 3-D chain will require a little bit of grinding on the four beveled pin surfaces of the outside of the pins. Don't worry about the pins that you're destroying because they're not going to be reused.
There are plenty of posts on installing a press-in master link, or you can look it up on YouTube. Make sure you put the little spacer plates to space the outside plates so you don't overtighten the pins, and crush the o-rings.
Please make sure to lubricate the inside bores, the pins, and the o-ring seals before pressing in the side plates.
Go over to cycle gear or one of your local shops and get a chain breaker tool with the folding handle. Those are pretty tough, and get a chain breaking rivet tool kit from one of the manufacturers like motion pro.
I've run EK ZZZ's and 3D, both are great. Same chain maintenance applies for maximum life. You won't get much stretch out of this chain versus the factory chain, which actually stretches rather easily.
You're going to need a rivet style EK 3D master link, one comes with your new chain.
You can press the factory pin out of the side plate without grinding. Just put a chain breaker tool on it, and press out one of the pins then press out the pin on the adjoining side plate link and you'll have two center links with no side plates. With the clutch in neutral pull out the chain and lay it flat on the floor.
A lot of folks like to put a little piece of safety wire through the chain you're pulling to pull the new chain in place but first you need to get the length right.
Take your new chain line it up alongside the old chain, take out the six links, and it should match in length side-by-side.
Removing links from an EK 3-D chain will require a little bit of grinding on the four beveled pin surfaces of the outside of the pins. Don't worry about the pins that you're destroying because they're not going to be reused.
There are plenty of posts on installing a press-in master link, or you can look it up on YouTube. Make sure you put the little spacer plates to space the outside plates so you don't overtighten the pins, and crush the o-rings.
Please make sure to lubricate the inside bores, the pins, and the o-ring seals before pressing in the side plates.
Go over to cycle gear or one of your local shops and get a chain breaker tool with the folding handle. Those are pretty tough, and get a chain breaking rivet tool kit from one of the manufacturers like motion pro.
I've run EK ZZZ's and 3D, both are great. Same chain maintenance applies for maximum life. You won't get much stretch out of this chain versus the factory chain, which actually stretches rather easily.
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If you've never done a chain before it'd be best to get someone that has and has the tool to show you. It's very easy to do once you know how but it's also easy to mess up and if it's not done right can cause harm to the bike and/or rider. I've done a lot and I still get my calipers out and measure the rivets and spacing of the outer plate every time just to be sure it's right.
GSXRme
Registered
Keep chains in stock. You'll need it. I don't see why, understand or care anymore why people go with a smaller chains. You do you, I would of focused on ceramic wheel bearings or light weight wheels vs a chain possibly snapping and ruining your day/life.
I've lost a chain on a bike once and it jammed into the front chain cover housing. Cracked the engine case wide open and ya we'll stop there
I've lost a chain on a bike once and it jammed into the front chain cover housing. Cracked the engine case wide open and ya we'll stop there
So long as it's a quality brand chain, with the same tensile strength as stock or higher, it's fine.
I have an EK3D 520 chain on the way(with stock size sprockets, 17/45) to replace the stock 525 on the 2018 gsxr1000R.
The 3 combined are over 2 pounds lighter than stock, so less rotating mass, and that'll make more of a difference than ceramic wheel bearings(which I also have to put in, as well as ceramic transmission bearings).
I have an EK3D 520 chain on the way(with stock size sprockets, 17/45) to replace the stock 525 on the 2018 gsxr1000R.
The 3 combined are over 2 pounds lighter than stock, so less rotating mass, and that'll make more of a difference than ceramic wheel bearings(which I also have to put in, as well as ceramic transmission bearings).
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