Busa has trouble starting

[Kiwi Rider]

and ANY gen 1 with hard starting I recommend measuring the voltage AT THE COILS while cranking
I chased that for three years, and the difference is amazing

Voltage drop at the coils can be mitigated by ensuring the bike has a healthy high CCA battery and a strong charging system.
A good test to perform is to hook up a separate battery (at least 12.5v) to feed the battery voltage side of the coils… then hit the starter, now with no voltage drop caused by the cranking load on the battery, it should start up instantly.

 

[202mphbusa]

Voltage drop at the coils can be mitigated by ensuring the bike has a healthy high CCA battery and a strong charging system.
A good test to perform is to hook up a separate battery (at least 12.5v) to feed the battery voltage side of the coils… then hit the starter, now with no voltage drop caused by the cranking load on the battery, it should start up instantly.

Yeah not always
I had three different batterys all so large they had to be mounted in the hump
Hell I even had the only 9-1 low compression turbo Busa with 24v start

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Yeah not always
I had three different batterys all so large they had to be mounted in the hump
Hell I even had the only 9-1 low compression turbo Busa with 24v start

Correct, 'not always'.
But it's a starting point. . . the basics like good healthy battery and charging system is the first port of call.
Did you ever get to the bottom of your hard starting issue?

 

[202mphbusa]

Correct, 'not always'.
But it's a starting point. . . the basics like good healthy battery and charging system is the first port of call.
Did you ever get to the bottom of your hard starting issue?

Actually no never figured it out
I gave the coils a SOLID 12v switched and it starts so well I stopped looking

Battery voltage was great
every component the voltage would go thru it would lose .2 or so volts
Right push button assembly and the fuse box relay packs
seem to be the worst offenders on my bike

Then for the last three years I have been struggling with a HEAVY load skip that I could only replicate risking my life in "Mexico" or Loring
So I gutted the wiring on my bike
the only factory wiring right this second it the Starter pushbutton
and the Horn button for air shift\

 

[202mphbusa]

Actually no never figured it out
I gave the coils a SOLID 12v switched and it starts so well I stopped looking

Battery voltage was great
every component the voltage would go thru it would lose .2 or so volts
Right push button assembly and the fuse box relay packs
seem to be the worst offenders on my bike

Then for the last three years I have been struggling with a HEAVY load skip that I could only replicate risking my life in "Mexico" or Loring
So I gutted the wiring on my bike
the only factory wiring right this second it the Starter pushbutton
and the Horn button for air shift\

Total disclosure of my complete and udder idiocy, After three year of chasing this hard skip, while rewiring the entire bike to it's current (I hate it race bike/no lights,dash) setup I discovered The ground lead to the Fuel pump had lost it's nut. Wire eyelet was still on but no nut.
Not Sure that was 100% the problem (DUH)
Bike at Loring Performed FLAWLESS. baby steps tuning and larning

Bike still has a standalone airshift problem that I was miss diagnosing at Losing Main ECU power or Ground
Tell tail sign should have been number of SD card logs, set to record any time key on, If I was losing ground or power I would have gotten multiple logs

So now I am Looking for a Unfettered Main harness (don't care about turn signal wires hacked off)
Because I want my street bike back

 

[BUSSA04]

Ya I got a better tender and seeing how that does if it does not help I'll just swap out the battery and give that a go thanks for all the info!