Bike Won't Start

[GMKILLER5.0]

OK, so just went to start the bike and get it ready for spring and it won't start. Cranks for a while, but nothing. I hear the fuel pump cycle when I turn the key on. Here are the basics of the bike:

05 Busa LE
Yosh R77 Full System
PC III
(all the other mods would have absolutely no affect on starting so I'll stop there)

The only things I did this off season, was have parts and pieces powder coated by Travis at TM Powdercoating, had rear sets, passenger rear sets, brake bar, sprocket hub, levers, etc. So really I just had some cosmetic things taken off for coating, and I put them all back on.

The battery was removed, and put in my home, on a trickle charger all winter. The garage is heated at about 50 degrees all winter long. Put battery in, hooked up wires, and it cranks for a while with no start. Then the battery gets tired so I put the trickle charger back on and try again. I thought maybe the battery had a bad cell, took it to my local 'Batteries Plus' store, and it tested fully charged drawing full 11.0 amps. (factory Yuasa battery)

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!

Thank You,

Ron

 

[GMKILLER5.0]

Oh, bike only has about 2500 miles on it. (I know, don't yell at me for that. )

 

[Casperle]

Any mouse damage evidence?

 

[notright]

Battery... I think it needs at least 12 to run the electronics. Even though it will crank for a short while there may not be enough left to opperate the injectors and such,even though you may not be getting an f1 light. I am also assumeing we are talking volts here. You will need way more than 11 amps for it to run.

 

[GMKILLER5.0]

Negative on the Mouse evidence, no chewed on wires, and no signs of droppings anywhere in the garage.

As far as the battery, I think it's possible that the battery is BAD. I bought my bike about 2-2.5 years ago with only 1065 miles on it, and it now has 2600 +/-, and it appears to be the original battery Yuasa YT12A-BS, it even has 'Busa' written on it like from the dealer. The kid (and I stress MORON) tested it and it came up Fully charged, 11.0 amps.
Here's the thing though, on my trickle charger, even after say 1 hour it will not cycle off, I think there's a dead cell.

Any other thoughts?

 

[notright]

2.5 yrs is getting a little long in the tooth even for a good bike battery. Even If it isn't the battery still getting time to think about replaceing it if you are going to get way out by yourself.

 

[expat1970]

use a multi meter set to DC volts and check your open circuit voltage +post to - post.should be at least 12.4volts which is only 80% charged. there 6 cell batteries and produce 2.1volts per cell giving you 12.6volts for a fully charged battery.if you get any thing in the 10volt range ,deff bad cell

 

[memorex]

Battery... I think it needs at least 12 to run the electronics. Even though it will crank for a short while there may not be enough left to opperate the injectors and such,even though you may not be getting an f1 light. I am also assumeing we are talking volts here. You will need way more than 11 amps for it to run.

This is my educated guess also. Mine did the same thing last year. Then I put a charger on it for awhile. Then it started right up.

 

[djsin]

BATTERY needs replaced more then likely... btw even if she cranks, the ecu is looking for a minimum rpm during crank before it kicks on the ignition so if its looking for 800rpm but she cranks at 600 your screwed


not good to leave a battery on any type of charger at all for an extended period of time..and if you used a 9$ battery tender it most certainly killed your battery

a battery should read 12.5 or above volts when charged and 14.4 with bike runing

you can jump start it with a car...if she starts then u know its your battery 12 volts is 12 volts it doesnt matter where it comes from as long as its dc

 

[GMKILLER5.0]

Well I'm ashamed to admit, I was STUPID !!
But I'm going to share my dumbness, so no one else will make this mistake, (I know I never will again).
I checked and rechecked, put my multimeter on battery and it read 12.8 +/- so it definately was not the battery.
So then I started to think what was unhooked and then re-hooked. It ended up being my wire for the PC3. I thought I wired it to Red + so I did. It's supposed to be to the Black - . Guess what, when you do stuff correctly it works.

Lesson Learned, hope this just goes as a reminder before you run out and spend money on what you think is the obvious problem (the battery), check everything else first.

Thank You to everyone!!!!