Brock's BT Moto 1/1 tune vs BT moto only

Cruising180

Registered
I was on Brock's site a couple days ago and I noticed they sell the BT-Moto handheld tuner but have an option for a "drag tune" and the difference being that it is a 1 to 1 throttle mapping. They talk about it not being the ideal tune for street riding using this example.

Example: If the rider is in a higher gear (5th/6th etc..), at low speeds/RPM’s (20 MPH/2000 RPM, etc…) and decides to snap to WOT (Wide Open Throttle) instantly, the bike can bog, severely stumble or possibly even shut off completely – causing an unsafe riding condition. To avoid the situation in this example, select the proper gear (1st) to match the RPM and roll on the throttle as aggressively as desired. Please also note that Drag Throttle settings are separate/do not alter other SDMS rider settings regulated by the ECU, such as power, traction control, lift, engine braking, quick shifter etc...

Who would do that? My full exhaust and tuned Blackbird had cable 1-1 throttle and I managed not to kill myself. If your not a complete caveman and don't whack the throttle open just whenever wouldn't a 1to1 throttle be preferable?
 
Do both tunes come in the handheld tuner?
The 'race tune' seems to be what it is, for drag racing, so it probably gets a big dump of fuel all at once, as it's designed to go from a high rpm stand still, vs roll-on daily rider power.
They were probably having trouble with guys trying to roll race that tune, flooding the engine in higher gears when they go wide open from lower rpm's, and causing the disclaimer.
I would think/hope that true one to one throttle response from the ride by wire, would not cause stalling when tuned accordingly, and that should still be possible without this issue.
I have had other bikes with choppy throttle, cable throttles, but still ecu controlled throttle tables.
These were able to be flashed and/or tuned so that the on/off throttle response was made very smooth, vs switch like.
But, the Moore Mafia and Brocks tunes that I have ridden on, all have switch like throttle response.
They drag and roll race, and neither to me has ever tuned anything to be street 'ridden'...only raced.
I Do want All the available power too, but I just want the on/off throttle smooth.
I do not see that as difficult to do either, let the fuel fade out more gradually.
The Gen3 by many standards has failed to impress, and unlocking the ecu took a long time.
The only real sportbike market left is roll racing, and the Busa is not really full sport or full sport touring.
The only aftermarket people really focussing on the Busa are drag and roll race guys, and deep pocket big turbo guys.
I think this is the reason for those tunes, and their differences.
Just my *opinion*
 
The only difference according to the Brock's site is that it's a direct 1 to 1 throttle input to butterfly opening. Nothing about any fueling differences.
 
You're absolutely right with proper cable adjustments your throttlebody grip tuning was one to one. I'm not sure why they would single this out as a foreboding for street riders.

I rode all the way to Sturgis and back 3509 miles with one to one throttle, and between me and the cruise control we seemed to do just fine.

Obviously, gear selection might have something to do with it, but how many crack open the throttle to get the front end off the ground and then just keep rolling into it ?.

Enough saddle time, and 1:1 becomes normal.
 
The bike will be significantly twitchier with a 1:1. Brain the CM flash and after switching to BT Moto the biggest benefit was <30% throttle manners. After being able to scale my own tps inputs in my max I think CM has very little of any scaling and that’s where a lot of the ride ability issues came from. The 1:1 just seems like a hassle for a street bike.
 
The bike will be significantly twitchier with a 1:1. Brain the CM flash and after switching to BT Moto the biggest benefit was <30% throttle manners. After being able to scale my own tps inputs in my max I think CM has very little of any scaling and that’s where a lot of the ride ability issues came from. The 1:1 just seems like a hassle for a street bike.
I get what you're saying but ALL bikes used to be a 1:1 ratio. I've been riding street bikes since 1997 and the first ride by wire bike I had was my 2017 FZ-10. That NNEDED a flash because the off throttle fuel cut was so harsh it was insane. My thought process is that since 98% of the bikes I've owned were a direct cable to carbs or throttle bodies wouldn't this mimic that with the 1:1 throttle mapping?
 
I get what you're saying but ALL bikes used to be a 1:1 ratio. I've been riding street bikes since 1997 and the first ride by wire bike I had was my 2017 FZ-10. That NNEDED a flash because the off throttle fuel cut was so harsh it was insane. My thought process is that since 98% of the bikes I've owned were a direct cable to carbs or throttle bodies wouldn't this mimic that with the 1:1 throttle mapping?
I’ve never owned a carb’d vehicle so I’m slightly in the dark with that, but drive by cable stuff usually has an uneven radius in the throttle body cam so that the throttle comes on progressive vs linear.

I don’t know specifics of the BT moto flash, but in my maxx I have it so that 10% throttle input is 5% to the blades and then as throttle input increase so does blade opening and by 30% throttle input the blades are 1:1.


The low end torque these bikes make made the 1:1 dicey when leaned over and getting back on throttle or for low speed maneuvering which is why I’m not a fan of it.
 
I can see that being "safer" for sure. My 2002 Blackbird I had made 180hp or something like that and a little over 100tq to the wheel. WOT was WOT and there was no anything controlling the the throttlebody butterflies besides the cables connected directly to the throttle tube. I know better than to whack the throttle open at full lean in second or third gear. No I'm not the greatest ridder ever or even close I do however have three decades almost of not yeeting myself into a ditch lol
 
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