Bleeding Brakes - Any Suggestions!

[Cuffee]

Yesterday I installed new brake pads and the Gafler brake lines. Now I in the process of bleeding the brakes, however, I am getting no pressure.

Take a look at the picture below. I have a very similar set up. The pump's reading has a reading of 15 on it, however, no fluid is coming out (there is fluid in the master cylinder).

I would think that after a moment fluid should come out. I tried this for about an hour and fluid never came out.

So next I tried to use the old fashion way....pump the brakek brake a few times, then while holding the brake down open the nipple then close the nipple, pump the brakes a few more times and do the same thing.

When I open the nipple I do hear air (pssss), however, never any fluid comes out. I tried doing this for about 2 hours and finally gave up.

Any suggestions......

 

[nitrousjunkie]

Remember what I told you yesterday? open your bleeder screw and leave the cap off the master cylinder and let it gravity bleed for a while.Also, are working with the correct Master cylinder? Its the one under the right side of the rear tail section? And not the one on the handle bars. It'll take a while to get the air out,like I said, DO NOT GIVE UP and DO NOT RIDE IT till you get a good bleed with no air and have a FULL pedal of BRAKES.NJ.

 

[Cuffee]

Remember what I told you yesterday? open your bleeder screw and leave the cap off the master cylinder and let it gravity bleed for a while.Also, are working with the correct Master cylinder? Its the one under the right side of the rear tail section? And not the one on the handle bars. It'll take a while to get the air out,like I said, DO NOT GIVE UP and DO NOT RIDE IT till you get a good bleed with no air and have a FULL pedal of BRAKES.NJ.

Yes. I remember. I was just frustrated. When I get home I will open the nipple and let gravity run its course.

I am working with the correct Master cylinder. The one that is located under tail section.

I don't plan on riding it until I am confident that I have gotten a good bleed.

 

[BusaReds]

Gravity method is the best method.......Damn Cuffee we gotta hook up. I could have had u straight and then we could have been ridin instead of you being frustrated.......

 

[Cuffee]

Gravity method is the best method.......Damn Cuffee we gotta hook up. I could have had u straight and then we could have been ridin instead of you being frustrated.......

I know. I should have given you a call. I will be working on it today after work. I hope I will be able to do some riding tomorrow.

 

[nitrousjunkie]

If nothing else, pop the top on a cold one and imagine the ridr tomorrow, what ever you do, do not ride that bike until ALL the air is out of the MC and line and you get nothing but fluid out of the line.Believe me,it takes a while if you replace the line or totally disconnect the caliper.I dont know why, but the back one is always a biotch,but it will eventually bleed good with NO air bubbles.When that happens,close your bleeder valve,and top off the MC.Then make sure you have a fulll pedal of brakes with NO fade.If you get some fade, you still have air.Trust me, it will get better, just be patient.NJ.

 

[NearDeath]

Remember what I told you yesterday? open your bleeder screw and leave the cap off the master cylinder and let it gravity bleed for a while.Also, are working with the correct Master cylinder? Its the one under the right side of the rear tail section? And not the one on the handle bars. It'll take a while to get the air out,like I said, DO NOT GIVE UP and DO NOT RIDE IT till you get a good bleed with no air and have a FULL pedal of BRAKES.NJ.

+1

 

[Cuffee]

If nothing else, pop the top on a cold one and imagine the ridr tomorrow, what ever you do, do not ride that bike until ALL the air is out of the MC and line and you get nothing but fluid out of the line.Believe me,it takes a while if you replace the line or totally disconnect the caliper.I dont know why, but the back one is always a biotch,but it will eventually bleed good with NO air bubbles.When that happens,close your bleeder valve,and top off the MC.Then make sure you have a fulll pedal of brakes with NO fade.If you get some fade, you still have air.Trust me, it will get better, just be patient.NJ.

Will do! Atleast I know that I can change brake pads and install brake lines. I will be leaving work around 1 pm (EST) to go and work on my bike. I will let you know how it turns out. Thanks for the help!

 

[BigBSBusa]

Remember the rear caliper has 2 bleed valves. I would also start at the rear master cylinder and open the line there to make sure fluid is flowing. Once you do that, tighten the bolt and move to the rear caliper. Just did that last week on Baby J and it is tough, but if you follow it from front to back it makes it easier.

 

[Cuffee]

Remember the rear caliper has 2 bleed valves.  I would also start at the rear master cylinder and open the line there to make sure fluid is flowing.  Once you do that, tighten the bolt and move to the rear caliper.  Just did that last week on Baby J and it is tough, but if you follow it from front to back it makes it easier.

Thanks for the help!

 

[BusaCruise]

it may help if you remove the rear caliper from the bracket (be sure that you can open/close the bleed valve by hand first) so that you can lower it towards the ground. Once it's off, be sure to open the the space enuf so that you can slip one of the old brake pads between the new ones (to simulate the rotor) and then start the process over. Also be sue that where the line connects to the resevoir, the banjo points downward. You basically want no spot in the line to impede the escape of air. A straight line (practically) while bleeding is best....if your line has extra length, that's fine to rearrange it after the bleed.


PS...that looks like the same craftsman bleed kit I bought....I never even used mine....just a few of the hoses. It wasn't worht the 50+ that i paid for it....squeeze & release still werx for me.

<!--EDIT|BusaCruise
Reason for Edit: None given...|1130780606 -->

 

[Cuffee]

It's done! The brakes are working good. I also changed my oil (Amsoil) and filter. Put air in the tires. I also took her into the shop to make sure that I bled the brakes correctly. Everything is a ok! Thanks for all help and support. I truely don't know what I do with this board and particularly the members. You guy and gals are great! Thanks again! If anyone is in the Largo, MD area stop by I can show you the baby's room. I also got some Sam Adams in the fridge

 

[TRICKBUSA]

I TRIED ALL THE ONE MAN BLEEDER TOOLS THE PROBLEM IS THEY ARE MADE FOR CARS AND THE NIPPLE FITTINGS DONT SEAL COMPLETLEY YOU NEED A BUDDY TO STROKE THE LEVER AND YOU BLEED THE VAVLE JUST LIKE YOUR POPS TAUGHT YOU. AFTER YOU GET FULL LEVER AND YOU THINK YOU ARE DONE YOU ARENT TAKE A ZIP TIE AND TIE THE LEVER BACK OVER NITE TO ALLOW MICRO BUBBLES TO COME TO THE RESVERIOR, MY TUNER SWEARS THIS WILL HELP GIVE A MORE SOLID FEEL AT THE LEVER. CANT HURT THE KEY IS DONT BE A HURRY

 

[BigBSBusa]

Glad you got it done, bro!

 

[Cuffee]

Glad you got it done, bro!

Me too!

 

[fastball44]

Not sure if this works for a Hayabusa, but......I used to buy things called Brakebleeders from my BMW dealer for my R1100RT. They screwed into the bleed nipple. They are a simple check valve nipple. Inside there is a spring loaded ball that allows fluid to flow out but the ballcheck stops air from going back in. Very slick. All you do is pump the brake lever and it bleeds itself. Not sure if they will work with the Suzuki brake system, but some of you might check them out and see. I loved them on the Bimmer. Take care all.

 

[Cuffee]

Not sure if this works for a Hayabusa, but......I used to buy things called Brakebleeders from my BMW dealer for my R1100RT. They screwed into the bleed nipple. They are a simple check valve nipple.  Inside there is a spring loaded ball that allows fluid to flow  out but the ballcheck stops air from going back in. Very slick. All you do is pump the brake lever and it bleeds itself.  Not sure if they will work with the Suzuki brake system, but some of you might check them out and see.  I loved them on the Bimmer.  Take care all.

Actually, I have seen them. I just wasn't sure how they worked.

 

[DAB]

Not sure if this works for a Hayabusa, but......I used to buy things called Brakebleeders from my BMW dealer for my R1100RT. They screwed into the bleed nipple. They are a simple check valve nipple.  Inside there is a spring loaded ball that allows fluid to flow  out but the ballcheck stops air from going back in. Very slick. All you do is pump the brake lever and it bleeds itself.  Not sure if they will work with the Suzuki brake system, but some of you might check them out and see.  I loved them on the Bimmer.  Take care all.

Actually, I have seen them. I just wasn't sure how they worked.

Speedbleeder

These are supposed to fit motorcycles:

Sizes

 

[ICEMANN]

IF anyone buys the speedbleeders and they work post the sizes you used for everyone else.

JD

 

[Lloyd]

I have speedbleeders on my Busa, bought them at the dealer show in Indy last Feb...
. I think they only make one size for motorcycles...They work most awsome, you wont regret it..