Brake bleeding problem

Hawk

Registered
My brakes were begining to fade on my bike so I decided that it was time to bleed them. It's an '05 and I've not had to bleed them yet. I did the rear one first with no problem. Added fluid, pumped the brake, opened, pumped once, and then released valve and closed. I repeated untill fluid was flowing freely. The front brakes are where I ran into a BIG problem. I filled both the main (right) and left resivor. After I bleed the right brake, using the same method, I noticed that I lost a lot of tension in the lever. I then bleed the left and lost all tension in the lever. Pumping and releasing the lever I can get fluid to readily flow through the line, but I've now lost all pressure in the brake line. I was also concerend because the left resivor never moved. What could be causing this problem and how do I fix it :please: ?
 
Welcome! For starters:
The right resevior is for the Brakes, the left is for the hydraulic clutch. That is why the level never moved; completely different system. I use a mity-vac; a small hand pump that sucks the fluid through - it helps to flush the lines as well as bleed them. They are inexpensive (around 15.00) and work very well.
 
:welcome: and keep that shid off everything but the rags you're using. It will eat painted surfaces :thumbsup:
 
1) Where can I get this "mity-vac" 2) Is there anything else that could cause this problem?
 
Sears, Amazon, etc., etc.
icon2.gif
Mity Vac Brake Bleeding Kit
 
not much, maybe a soda cap full. It was already at the top. Am I about to replace the clutch fluid or will it be ok?
 
not much, maybe a soda cap full. It was already at the top. Am I about to replace the clutch fluid or will it be ok?

I replace and bleed the fluid in both front and rear brakes, and the clutch every year.
Cheap insurance I fugure.
Just me.
 
not much, maybe a soda cap full. It was already at the top. Am I about to replace the clutch fluid or will it be ok?

All you do is take a little eye dropper, you know the type that look like a baster, and remove out as much as possible. Don't use any cloth or fiber towel that will leave residue that would contaminate your system. It IS your life.

Here's a fav fluid of mine to consider on all.
GTLMA_12oz400x683.jpg

Exceeds DOT 3 and DOT 4 requirements.

Unique Low Moisture Activity (LMA) formulation provides maximum protection against vapor lock brake failure.

Maintains a higher boiling point than conventional brake fluids.

Superior protection against chloride and zinc corrosion of braking system parts.

Ideally suited for Audi, BMW, Jaguar, Mercedes-Benz, Porsche, Saab, Volkswagen, Volvo, Honda, Acura, and many other brake systems.

Exceeds specifications SAE 1703, SAE 1704, ISO 4925, JIS K2233 and FMVSS No. 116 DOT 3 and DOT 4.
 
I went a nd picked up a "Mity Vac" from Cycle Gear today for $40. It was my first time using it so it took me about 40 mins to get the job done. But everything works great now :cheerleader: . Where you guys when I was in college :beerchug:
 
I went a nd picked up a "Mity Vac" from Cycle Gear today for $40. It was my first time using it so it took me about 40 mins to get the job done. But everything works great now :cheerleader: . Where you guys when I was in college :beerchug:

Whats done is done, but $40. holy bend u over and get some. did u at least get a reach around.:rofl:
:welcome: newbie.....
 
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