Big boost project

trefling

Registered
Big thanks to everyone on this forum; it has been very helpful to have so many threads and experienced members to learn from. I bought my 03 Turbo Busa about 6 months ago with a RCC turbo kit already installed. I'm kind of a perfectionist and right after I got the bike I tore it down to the bare frame. Every single nut and bolt has been sonic cleaned. The frame was stripped and repainted, along with the plastics. The engine was completely rebuilt with a fresh Millennium block, ceramic coated/friction coated skirt CP turbo pistons. I also had the original turbo sent off to GPopshop.com to be converted to full dual ball bearing with ceramic coated turbine and compressor housing. It's now a full water cooled turbo, so oil coking and turbo cool down time has been eliminated. Injectors have been flow benched and the waste gate spring has been changed from 8 pounds to 18 pounds of boost. I'm also using an Aquamist 100% straight methanol injection that comes on at 8psi. There is a second stage of water injection that comes on at 16psi. The water jet is only .5 and the methanol injection uses 2 .7 jets on the plenum. The goal was to get 350+ RWHP with 92 octane pump gas with ZERO detonation. Since these amazing machines don't have any knock sensors, every step was taken to ensure the proper octane and anti-detonation requirements have been met. The whole point of the methanol & water injection was to ensure that some random bad gas wouldn't spell disaster for the bike. The ECU has been reflashed by MPS racing with 2 degrees of timing pulled. The Aquamist pump has a simple booster pump to ensure that the methanol flows at the desired levels. The water injection jet was used primarily to keep detonation in check but also to keep EGT in line. All the gears were send to R&D to be undercut with billet input and output shaft. The valve springs, timing chain and shift forks were all cryo treated and the valve springs were also friction coated to reduce heat. After much research I have found that most guys with big power generally do a tear down once a season to replace the valve springs. The cool part about this build was it was designed to be done 1 time only, no yearly rebuilds. The cryo treatment keep the springs from losing their seating pressure and the friction coating greatly reduces the heat from the constant wear and friction. Everyone I know says this project is complete overkill but I'd rather have it overbuilt and underrated rather than overstressed and under built. Carillo rods were used and the engine and rod bearing were also cryo treated and friction coated by Calico coating. Engine bearings are just too expensive to replace all the time and with proper pretreatment there is no reason to replace them assuming there is proper lubrication/film strengh. I'm building this bike to play with for a while then sell it. I have receipts for everything and the project is nearly complete. There is not a scratch anywhere and attention to detail was taken with every step.

Big thanks to Steve @ Smitherscustoms. I'm luck to have such a great shop so close to where I live. Steve was very patient with my engine build and time it took to get everything all together. There were many nontraditional things done to this bike that I have used and done with car engine builds in the past. Motors are motors and I didn't see any reason as to why the same principles would not work on the Busa. One thing that I have noticed is that almost everyone only used water injection. But I can tell you from experience that pure methanol injection yields much better results than say water or 50/50 mix. The methanol give you more torque considering the slower burn rate but the water injection was needed to keep internal temps in check. I know that most bikes don't need this because our bikes only need about 8 seconds to reach almost 200mph but I wanted the engine to be able to sustain a constant load without the engine melting itself down. Once again, major overkill, but the next person who owns this bike will appreciate it.

Here is a link to more pictures:
Pictures by trefling - Photobucket

Busa1.jpg


busa2.jpg


busa3.jpg


busa4.jpg


busa5.jpg


busa6.jpg
 
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And this is something that you can drive daily up and down the street or to and from school and not have a problem with it tearing up??
 
Very nice,:thumbsup:
just keep an eye on your temps after a hard ride, i had troubles when i watercooled the bearing housing, all good when your riding but if you slow down in traffic when the turbo is hot the cooling system can't cope , low water flows at low engine speed i think part of the prob, i had water boiling in the housing and purging water out of the cooling system, then the engine would get hot , beginning to think at the time that i had a headgasket problem but was all good when i just disconnected the water from the turbo.
 
Great advice OZ I was also concerned about the coolant boiling in the turbo water jackets. I was considering using EVANS waterless coolant but couldn't find any feedback on their products in regards to our bikes. But due to the fact there is zero water in it they may a solution. RCC's electric water pump may be a good solution as well but $500 for a water pump is a little past my budget at the moment.

Thanks again OZ if I see troubles at least I'll know where to look now
 
And this is something that you can drive daily up and down the street or to and from school and not have a problem with it tearing up??


I don't anticipate any problems with daily reliability. The only thing I see being torn up in the near future is the rear tire. I've got all winter to get everything dialed in right.
 
running coolant through the turbo is a mistake:disagree: . . . the cooling system on a busa is already smaller than it should be . . . :fire:
 
running coolant through the turbo is a mistake:disagree: . . . the cooling system on a busa is already smaller than it should be . . . :fire:

Dual radiator fans? Possible 1-2gpm secondary pump with independent transmission cooler run entirely seperate from the primary cooling system?
 
I don't anticipate any problems with daily reliability. The only thing I see being torn up in the near future is the rear tire. I've got all winter to get everything dialed in right.

Famous last words!!! Doesn't matter what you put into these motors...it all can tear up due to incorrect installation, poor build quality or just plain part failure. It looks like you have done everything correct in your build just don't think of it as indestructable. Every time we throw a leg over a turbo bike something could "give". If yours was built good it might last forever though its just a dice roll
 
Famous last words!!! Doesn't matter what you put into these motors...it all can tear up due to incorrect installation, poor build quality or just plain part failure. It looks like you have done everything correct in your build just don't think of it as indestructable. Every time we throw a leg over a turbo bike something could "give". If yours was built good it might last forever though its just a dice roll

Very true. But the projects I've put the most love into have always provided the best results. But yes I would agree nothing is bullet proof and parts simply just break sometimes. As you mentioned "the build" is key and most importantly the tune.
 
what about data logging? and what fuel system you using? I would highly suggest some type of data logging for atleast a/f and the boost. One thing I have found from logging is that water injection is overated and doesnt cool the temps by much at all.If your using a fmu that's a mistake. Some people dont have issues with them but more do then dont. I also agree 100 percent not running water thrue your turbo.Theres a reason why people dont.

Your bike does look good and your heading mostly in the right direction but I would go to more of a turbo site (suzukihayabusa.org) and do some reading .One more thing we need more pictures!:thumbsup:
 
I just seen your album:thumbsup: git rid of the fmu if you do any kind of racing.If you get secondaries then you can get a boost controller and actually use 1st gear. At 18lbs I doubt your stock injectors will have enough fuel,they generally run out at 275hp.
 
I just seen your album:thumbsup: git rid of the fmu if you do any kind of racing.If you get secondaries then you can get a boost controller and actually use 1st gear. At 18lbs I doubt your stock injectors will have enough fuel,they generally run out at 275hp.
I don't care much about being able to use 1st gear much, I've always been more of a highway racer anyways.


A standalone would be better all around no doubt. I'd never dream of using a FMU on my car yet I do it on my bike :duh: But at the same time its such a common standard with these bikes.

I have the S2000 injectors now (flowed and benched) and had the FMU rebuilt by frank at Powerhouse. The FMU before would jump well over 100psi and no calibrated to go no more than 70 psi. I couldn't see 100psi being good for gas injectors. 18psi will be pushing it with S2000's but I'm also dumping in allot of methanol so I"m hoping AF's will be right on without having the duty cycle maxed out.

And on the water cooled turbo issue I'm still going to attempt to keep it (fluid cooled) I"m going with Evans water-less coolant. I've listened well to everyone and every negative issue with the standard cooling is that after shut off the coolant (50/50 mix) will start to boil. the steam/boilage pushed the cooland up and pukes it in the overflow tank. If I'm still having temperature issues I'll put on a second fan and probably the aluminum blades to replace the stockers. If all else fails I'll pull the plumbing but I"m still want to keep that turbo cool and eliminated coking especially with all the polymer shear/oil additives which were not meant to be in a super hot exuast turbine.

http://lubricationspecialist.com/front/showcontent.aspx?fileid=21&gclid=COu7uaDDrJ4CFR4HagodRS_7mA

Evans coolant will not boil up to around 350-375 degrees (unpressurized). That's a far cry from what will happen if regular coolant see's that temp. I'll try it all out, if it does or doesn't work I"ll let you guys know
 
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