Sorry Drewwerd13,
I lost this conversation for some reason and didn't get back to you. The throttlemiester was cheap at Santa Clara cycle. The way I wrote it you couldn't tell what I was talking about. Sorry.
Wheelies are better with a TRE. I didn't mean to imply the TRE kills wheelies. It kills Un-intended wheelies. The power band comes on quicker (lower RPMs) with the TRE. This actually will help wheelies. Using a TRE the timing retard is eliminated, meaning that the power is not detuned at RPMs lower than 5000 in gears 1-3 like the ECU is programed to do. It does this to reduce the chance of people spinning out on a slick road by applying too much throttle. At about 5000 RPM the advance returns to full advance from retarded.Some say it also has to do with smog controls but I don't know about that.
What I experienced with no TRE was decellerating in a turn to about 4800 PRM with a throttle closed condition. As soon as I cracked the throttle a tiny bit, the timing came back in to full advance abruptly causing my front end to raise unexpectedly. Had the RPM been a little lower, the power would not have come on so abruptly. It would have been more retarded by the ECU. With the TRE, the example above would be different because the ECU gives you full advance all the time with enough power to wheelie; but I am expecting it to have that much power, so its not a problem. The problem without TRE is that you never can be sure how much power you are going to get when you twist the throttle. Sometimes it is too much power and other times it is not enough. Both can be a surprise.
I didn't spend $75 for a plug-in TRE. Just make your own if you are comfortable with electronics and cutting/soldering one wire off the Gear Position Switch -GPS- connector under the gas tank. It can be reversed with solder and some electric tape/heat shrink tubing. All years use the same color coded wires for GPS so you can get the schematic off the net in many places. I'll help too if you want, just e-mail me direct below. Mine is switchable, has an indicator LED near the dash, and is mounted under the hump to get at easily. That is not needed. You just need a 1/2 watt resistor of 6.8K ($0.25) and some solder. That resistance will disable the speed limiter too. 15k ohms leaves the limiter in place but does remove the timing retard.
Let me know if you want to do this. It is not that hard. I can also tell you how the bike acts differently in and out of TRE since mine is switchable.
