Best Modifications


I've had my Hayabusa for about 3 months now. The only modification I have on it is a little tank pad. I'm wondering what kind of stuff you all started with on your Hayabusa's before getting new exhaust systems, Power Commanders, Chrome rims, etc. Before all the expensive stuff, what kind of modifications would you recommend on a Hayabusa that's cheap, quick, easy to install, and makes it look good??

I'll post a question about the expensive stuff later... when I can afford it.
cut that big ugly goddy fender off the back, remove all warning stickers, remove all four side reflectors, the big-bird rear turn signals can go cheap too.

that'll keep ya busy for a day.
Depends on what you are looking for ...more power more compfort

would suggest new windscreen Zero Gravity Double Bubble is good mod for 70 bucks

reaper risers for the bars to raise them for 35
reaper dog bones to lower the rear end for 45
TRE almost nothing under 5 bucks if ya make it yourself
some bolt on cans but those can get kinda pricey
throttlemeister cruise control for about 145

that is my $0.02 for what is worth just depends on what you want for the bike ??
cheap performance? 16 tooth front sprocket, really helps with launches and midrange, cost $25 sprocket, $25 installed
Depends on what you are looking for ...more power more comfort
Thanks for the suggestions Jace...
I think right now I'm looking for more comfort. I haven't totally gotten used to the power just yet. I'll worry about that stuff later. I just bought the new windscreen. I visited the throttlemeister site yesterday and will probably buy that cruise control kit after I get my next pay check.
Do you have that on your bike? If so... how is it?
I have a couple more questions though...
What is a TRE?
How would reaper risers help in comfort and how easy are they to install?
What are the pro's and con's of lowering the rear end?
And should I lower the front if I lower the rear?
Thanks again guys for all your suggestions. I think I'll take those reflectors off real soon, and probably borrow a dremmel and do a good job of cutting off that huge flap in the back.
I do not have the trottlmeister on mine yet but hope to soon i have the ZG Double Bubble and is great

the risers for the bar will lift up the bar from .75 1" or 1.25 " takes some of the pressure off of the wrists and allows you to lower the front end should improve steering unless you drop the rear and will be the same handling but i want it lower in the back .....short legs !!

install looks like you could do in about 30 min to an hour is easy......easier and cheaper than heli bars

TRE is Timing Retard Eliminator on the 2001-2003 models will take off the top end restrictor and will smooth out the lunging in the trottle is simple to make and install

or if ya look on ebay can find a few for sale for about 50bucks but to make cost under 5

pro gel grips are another good idea for some compfort and is cheap mod .......
Drewwerd, I have the Throttlemeisters and love them. They look like regular bar ends so you don't think of them until your wrists need it. Then you simply roll the knob with the trhottle to lock it. Very clean. They are heavy though. Solid stainless and brass. this may reduce vibrations. I find that with a TRE, cold idle is a little slow. I use the Throttlemeister to hold the throttle/idle about 2000 RPM until it warms up. The "choke" lever on the left grip is not as affective with the TRE switched on.

I bought mine at Santa Clara Cycle. They had the cheapest price last year in the South Bay.

TRE will smooth out the low RPM surges. Idle sounds better. I can switch it out and back in. The pops and stumbles are gone with the TRE on. The exhaust note is crisper and raspier too It sounds more agressive. Throttle response is much faster when cracking it hard form idle with the TRE on. I get no unintended wheelies anymore when coming out of turns around 5000RPM. The advance surge is gone. That would happen when I would let off into a turn at mid RPM and then apply smooth throttlle out of the turn. Sometimes the engine would surge in power with litlle of no throttle change. It is pretty wild to be over on your side past the apex of the turn and an unexpectedly the front wheel comes up because the throttle was barely opened. Now that is gone.
To me the first & biggest mod when I first got my bike was some slipons. I could NOT stand not hearing my bike. Thats just me though.
Best is what you feel at the time. I have everything from Turo etc. etc. One of my favorites is my real throwing stars on my Can hangers. People thing they spin off when I get pissed off.

Or maybe my new Danger warning sticker that sits under my F/P gauge (pics to come)


iT IS ALL IN WHAT YOU FEEL. lOOKS SOUND PERFORMANCE what ever you do it is right as long as you like it.
Sorry Drewwerd13,

I lost this conversation for some reason and didn't get back to you. The throttlemiester was cheap at Santa Clara cycle. The way I wrote it you couldn't tell what I was talking about. Sorry.

Wheelies are better with a TRE. I didn't mean to imply the TRE kills wheelies. It kills Un-intended wheelies. The power band comes on quicker (lower RPMs) with the TRE. This actually will help wheelies. Using a TRE the timing retard is eliminated, meaning that the power is not detuned at RPMs lower than 5000 in gears 1-3 like the ECU is programed to do. It does this to reduce the chance of people spinning out on a slick road by applying too much throttle. At about 5000 RPM the advance returns to full advance from retarded.Some say it also has to do with smog controls but I don't know about that.

What I experienced with no TRE was decellerating in a turn to about 4800 PRM with a throttle closed condition. As soon as I cracked the throttle a tiny bit, the timing came back in to full advance abruptly causing my front end to raise unexpectedly. Had the RPM been a little lower, the power would not have come on so abruptly. It would have been more retarded by the ECU. With the TRE, the example above would be different because the ECU gives you full advance all the time with enough power to wheelie; but I am expecting it to have that much power, so its not a problem. The problem without TRE is that you never can be sure how much power you are going to get when you twist the throttle. Sometimes it is too much power and other times it is not enough. Both can be a surprise.

I didn't spend $75 for a plug-in TRE. Just make your own if you are comfortable with electronics and cutting/soldering one wire off the Gear Position Switch -GPS- connector under the gas tank. It can be reversed with solder and some electric tape/heat shrink tubing. All years use the same color coded wires for GPS so you can get the schematic off the net in many places. I'll help too if you want, just e-mail me direct below. Mine is switchable, has an indicator LED near the dash, and is mounted under the hump to get at easily. That is not needed. You just need a 1/2 watt resistor of 6.8K ($0.25) and some solder. That resistance will disable the speed limiter too. 15k ohms leaves the limiter in place but does remove the timing retard.

Let me know if you want to do this. It is not that hard. I can also tell you how the bike acts differently in and out of TRE since mine is switchable.
I would love to know how to do this also on my 03! Easier wheelies is always a good thing.

heh, not that I always do them.. but in the event (once it's fully broken in) that'd be a great add-on.
SierraFlyer, I'm going by Cycle Accessories as soon as I get my next pay check. I need that Throttlemeister! I'll E-mail you about the TRE. Thanks for all the info!
Maybe the 2003 undertails are different but I measured it and it doesn't look like there is more than an inch of room to work with. I can't seem to find any lights on the internet that look like they will fit. Not even the Lockhart Phillips lights look small enough.