Bad/Worn Combustion Chamber

[WuzzaCBXRider]

Its not possible and very rare,they just got lucky and someone else had already bought the bikes and pulled the motors before the company went under. The guys that make the t rex sell off all the frames and body parts after they strip the motors because suzuki won't sell the motors separately and makes them buy the whole bike.

I wonder if the bike sales were w/o titles preventing them from reselling them and causing them to sell them as parts only. Honda did something like that with their 81 CBXs but instead of selling them they donated them to various schools. Years later some of those surfaced and some of their new owners found ways to title them.

 

[Mythos]

Its not possible and very rare,they just got lucky and someone else had already bought the bikes and pulled the motors before the company went under. The guys that make the t rex sell off all the frames and body parts after they strip the motors because suzuki won't sell the motors separately and makes them buy the whole bike.

Maybe they'll have Gen3 motors someday. If that motor proves to be superior, I'd buy a new one for my Gen2.

 

[Dancallun]

@Dancallun


more power at the busa for what?
1/4 mile? ok may be nice depending on the class you wanna drive

road? nonsense - money would be so much better invested at safety-school every year (or 2nd) and race track schools with lots of close corners and lots of huge leaning angles.

in advance - please excuse my following, eventually harsh words.

learn first to get all the usual busa´s power on the road (4 stop light runs).
in other words:
practice the interaction between the throttle and clutch until it works perfectly after a long period of training.
only if then someone is faster than you at the jump start,
you can ponder more power.

btw.:
a few years ago, with my girlfriend on the back of my ´00 busa, i left a tuned up porsche 911 behind me - only a 4-1 akra was installed - otherwise absolutely no modifications - all standard.

my point of view is :
if you, in deed, wanna more hp in real, grab deeeeeeep into your pocket and spend some thousands of bucks and get a turbo installed - anything else is only a fumbling around and sounds only like a wawa enlargement (to quote my bros in mind @rubbersidedown) .

The reason I'm thinking of Carpenter Racing is because I'm eventually going to have to repair the engine anyway or just deal with bad compression, so if it is the cylinder wall then boring it for larger displacement and power could fix the problem. Are you saying putting a turbo on an engine with a bad cylinder wall would be better than repairing it, boring the cylinders, or replacing the engine? Anyway, that's why I'm asking about it in this forum.

I like beating fast cars on the road but enjoying the experience for myself is why I really like having so much power in a bike. I had an upgraded GSXR1100, Ninja 900, and and R1 before, every time I get more power in a bike I am more careful and respectful of it but also know when to use it.

I have taken classes before and I still practice those skills daily. That does not include track racing and that is why I don't take corners like I'm racing Isle of Man. Yes I would like to take more classes some day but right now I have bad compression to worry about. I also want to get better at working on my own bikes which will also initially cost more money.

I was also considering getting turbo on top of the boring somewhere down the road, that's why I'm asking about it in this forum. Yes I like very high performance machines. No I'm not going to fly into a wall, I know I'm not a moto gp racer.

I was already riding big bikes for years before I got the Hayabusa so it didn't take long to get the throttle and clutch down. I'm not that heavy into drag racing but at high speeds that's where I can feel the difference in power as well. I like going very fast on open empty roads sometimes, I love the feeling of the bike still having that major acceleration even when already at high speeds. I know when too much is too much. I know guys who are "safe" and get in more accidents than I have and were usually more serious accidents. Maybe I'll eat these words some day but then again maybe I won't. Certain types of riding and knowing my own skills and limitations is just what I love to do and one of the few things in life I'm very good at. Being on wheels is the only time everything feels right and being on 2 wheels of high performance is perfection.

I appreciate the advice but I'm just uneducated on certain things, I'm not some 19 yo hotshot kid who has no clue I'm almost 40.

 

[Dancallun]

Ok so update on the cylinder wall. Apparently I misunderstood the mechanic who's english is a little broken, they did not take apart the engine and look at the cylinder wall, they just did a wet test with oil and it did not increase the compression so that's why they think it's the cylinder wall. All they did was the compression test, valve checks, replace spark plugs and air filter, wound up around $700 parts and labor. The owner suggested I sell the bike, ride as is, or put more money into having the engine rebuilt. They did not even mention that last option until I last talked to them so I don't think they're trying to get money out of me. I actually had to keep asking how can I FIX it, to me it seems like he thinks it's not worth repairing.

 

[Berlin Germany]

@Dancallun

the heck
did they do a leak test to find out where and what may be the reason for a leaking?

• piston ring(s)
• exhaust valve(s)
• intake valve(s)
• head gasket

how YOU can fix it?

see my writings above
1st the leak-tester-link - then YOU will know what might be damaged

 

[Oldtimermick]

Ok so update on the cylinder wall. Apparently I misunderstood the mechanic who's english is a little broken, they did not take apart the engine and look at the cylinder wall, they just did a wet test with oil and it did not increase the compression so that's why they think it's the cylinder wall. All they did was the compression test, valve checks, replace spark plugs and air filter, wound up around $700 parts and labor. The owner suggested I sell the bike, ride as is, or put more money into having the engine rebuilt. They did not even mention that last option until I last talked to them so I don't think they're trying to get money out of me. I actually had to keep asking how can I FIX it, to me it seems like he thinks it's not worth repairing.

If the wet test showed no change in compression then you have a valve not seating properly. Take it to a different mechanic and have the valve clearance adjusted again. Also have the leak down test done as Berlin Germany suggested. The leak down test will confirm where the leak is.

 

[Bumblebee]

Ok so update on the cylinder wall. Apparently I misunderstood the mechanic who's english is a little broken, they did not take apart the engine and look at the cylinder wall, they just did a wet test with oil and it did not increase the compression so that's why they think it's the cylinder wall. All they did was the compression test, valve checks, replace spark plugs and air filter, wound up around $700 parts and labor. The owner suggested I sell the bike, ride as is, or put more money into having the engine rebuilt. They did not even mention that last option until I last talked to them so I don't think they're trying to get money out of me. I actually had to keep asking how can I FIX it, to me it seems like he thinks it's not worth repairing.

I take it they didn't use a camera to check out the bore....it takes quite a feat to damage that lining...if it is damaged it will show up right away on camera.

You could have a bent valve in that cylinder and my guess is that's what the issue is, if is just slightly bent, it would be hard to detect.

If it were a head gasket, you'd know that from other symptoms such as white smoke, coolant level drop or a sweet smell in the exhaust, if it were rings, you'd notice blue smoke coming from the exhaust and an oily residue around the exhaust tips...

 

[Oldtimermick]

I take it they didn't use a camera to check out the bore....it takes quite a feat to damage that lining...if it is damaged it will show up right away on camera.

You could have a bent valve in that cylinder and my guess is that's what the issue is, if is just slightly bent, it would be hard to detect.

If it were a head gasket, you'd know that from other symptoms such as white smoke, coolant level drop or a sweet smell in the exhaust, if it were rings, you'd notice blue smoke coming from the exhaust and an oily residue around the exhaust tips...

I agree with the bent valve chances very much, the other chance is a 10 year old bike with 16,000 miles could have sat a couple years somewhere with damp environment and number 3 pot had exhaust valves open getting corrosion on the seats. Long shot but still possible.

 

[Bumblebee]

I agree with the bent valve chances very much, the other chance is a 10 year old bike with 16,000 miles could have sat a couple years somewhere with damp environment and number 3 pot had exhaust valves open getting corrosion on the seats. Long shot but still possible.

....and it wouldn't take much to cause this issue...crap on the seats makes sense..

Either way the head needs to be pulled.

 

[Dancallun]

Any idea what it would cost to have it pulled apart? I would work on it myself but my current living situation barely allows me to do my own work, I'll be moving before August. They said they checked the valves and they are good, would it hurt the bike to keep riding it until August?

 

[Bumblebee]

Any idea what it would cost to have it pulled apart? I would work on it myself but my current living situation barely allows me to do my own work, I'll be moving before August. They said they checked the valves and they are good, would it hurt the bike to keep riding it until August?

It wouldn't be cheap...would be a bit cheaper if you could pull everything you could off the bike to prep it..

It must have been valve clearance they checked as I don't know how they could check them when the head is still on the bike and they didn't use a camera. All it would take is for one valve to be slightly bent to cause a loss in compression or for a little miniscule bit of crap on the seat.

Anything else will have a signature tell to let you know it has failed (coolant loss, coolant in oil, white or blue oily or wet smoke etc).

 

[Dancallun]

It wouldn't be cheap...would be a bit cheaper if you could pull everything you could off the bike to prep it..

It must have been valve clearance they checked as I don't know how they could check them when the head is still on the bike and they didn't use a camera. All it would take is for one valve to be slightly bent to cause a loss in compression or for a little miniscule bit of crap on the seat.

Anything else will have a signature tell to let you know it has failed (coolant loss, coolant in oil, white or blue oily or wet smoke etc).

Yes sorry I did mean they checked the valve clearances not the condition. I'll start looking into what you mentioned, thank you Bumblebee

 

[Dancallun]

Thank you Berlin I really appreciate all the help. I'll be looking into working on this engine myself. I don't have experience taking engines apart but with the shop manual I got from this forum I think I'll be able to. What is it like compared to rebuilding a clutch?

@Dancallun

the heck
did they do a leak test to find out where and what may be the reason for a leaking?

• piston ring(s)
• exhaust valve(s)
• intake valve(s)
• head gasket

how YOU can fix it?

see my writings above
1st the leak-tester-link - then YOU will know what might be damaged

 

[bigoltool]

....and it wouldn't take much to cause this issue...crap on the seats makes sense..

Either way the head needs to be pulled.

Hate it when I get crap on the seat.

 

[Bumblebee]

Hate it when I get crap on the seat.

I find if I stop twisting the "go fast handle" there is less crap on the seat

 

[Oldtimermick]

Any idea what it would cost to have it pulled apart? I would work on it myself but my current living situation barely allows me to do my own work, I'll be moving before August. They said they checked the valves and they are good, would it hurt the bike to keep riding it until August?

Yes you could hurt the bike with more riding, if the exhaust valve doesn’t seat fully you have the chance of burning the valve and seat like oxy cutting.
Quite often you can hear a slight popping sound at idle when a valve isn’t seating fully. This popping can be sometimes felt with your hand very close to the exhaust outlet of the muffler. You would hear it faintly from the airbox if it’s an intake valve issue. Mostly at idle you would hear this and a relatively small leak like yours would be a fairly faint popping noise.
It’s all a risk but if it’s the intake valve/valves they are very much less likely to burn out (with normal riding, not near redline) because they are constantly cooled with the air fuel mixture.
I wish I was close to you and I would do the leakdown test for you, then there is no guess work involved.
So to sum it up, you cold take the risk of riding it and one of these two scenarios could happen.
1: If it’s a bent intake valve or corrosion the compression could improve when the seat wears more.
2: If it’s a bent exhaust valve or corrosion it could burn the valve and seat. Which isn’t the end of the engine, you would have to have the head removed and new valve and seat fitted.

 

[Berlin Germany]

@Dancallun
and @all others here

if dancallun don´t wanna step as deep as necessary into screwing to fix his issue
is there no one near to san diego
who could do that 12-18 h lasting job for him ?

remember - for checking the valve seats (pulling the head) the entire motor must be pulled.

 

[Dancallun]

@Dancallun
and @all others here

if dancallun don´t wanna step as deep as necessary into screwing to fix his issue
is there no one near to san diego
who could do that 12-18 h lasting job for him ?

remember - for checking the valve seats (pulling the head) the entire motor must be pulled.

Thanks Berlin I just really can't do any extensive mechanical work right now. I really appreciate all the help but it's either working on the street or in the dirt outside and I don't have a decent place to keep my tools. I moved here to help my dad start a business and he turned out to be one of the biggest liars I have ever met in my life. The whole property here is filled with his junk, including the garage. I had set up a place where I can work on the bike in the garage and was able to fix my clutch on another bike, but I really had it out with him and called him out on his bullshit and now he's just even worse and has filled the whole space with his junk. I thought he was someone I could trust and rely on my whole life, and then this crap happens. Sorry for the sob story but it's really just an impossible situation until I move in July.

 

[Dancallun]

Yes you could hurt the bike with more riding, if the exhaust valve doesn’t seat fully you have the chance of burning the valve and seat like oxy cutting.
Quite often you can hear a slight popping sound at idle when a valve isn’t seating fully. This popping can be sometimes felt with your hand very close to the exhaust outlet of the muffler. You would hear it faintly from the airbox if it’s an intake valve issue. Mostly at idle you would hear this and a relatively small leak like yours would be a fairly faint popping noise.
It’s all a risk but if it’s the intake valve/valves they are very much less likely to burn out (with normal riding, not near redline) because they are constantly cooled with the air fuel mixture.
I wish I was close to you and I would do the leakdown test for you, then there is no guess work involved.
So to sum it up, you cold take the risk of riding it and one of these two scenarios could happen.
1: If it’s a bent intake valve or corrosion the compression could improve when the seat wears more.
2: If it’s a bent exhaust valve or corrosion it could burn the valve and seat. Which isn’t the end of the engine, you would have to have the head removed and new valve and seat fitted.

Thank you so much for the info and the offer to help if you were closer. I've never heard any kind of popping at idle and I pay pretty close attention to how it's running. Based on what everyone has told me in the forum I will probably ride the bike but take it easy for the next 3 months and then when I get my own place start pulling the engine apart. I've never done it before but every time I try something new I eventually figure it out, even if it's a struggle.

 

[Oldtimermick]

Thank you so much for the info and the offer to help if you were closer. I've never heard any kind of popping at idle and I pay pretty close attention to how it's running. Based on what everyone has told me in the forum I will probably ride the bike but take it easy for the next 3 months and then when I get my own place start pulling the engine apart. I've never done it before but every time I try something new I eventually figure it out, even if it's a struggle.

No worries mate, just keep checking the coolant level often in case it’s a small crack in the head working it’s way bigger. Good luck with it all mate.