Bad/Worn Combustion Chamber

Thank you, chamber wall is probably called the cylinder wall (first pic seems to call it a chamber wall, 2nd calls it cylinder wall). They didn't specifically say it had scoring just that it was an uneven surface and compression was low in only one cylinder. I don't have the means to pull it apart right now, I moved in with my father to help him start a business and it turned out to be a huge mistake, place is a mess and he loses my tools. Moving out in a few months will at least have a safe place for my tools. Do you think it's a terrible idea to ride it as is? I mean it's still fast for me and I haven't lost a race to any of thes cocky street racers yet lol. I'm still considering increasing the displacement of the engine, is that not done by boring out the cylinder walls to be bigger?

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Best advice I can give you is to avoid the dealership and reach out here on the forum. There is an excellent sponsor as well as many folks who can refer you to someone available to look at the bike and tell you what needs to be done. And do it for you.

What the mechanic told you makes me see Dollar signs with no reputation and confidence that this will turn out well.

One thing Suzuki does not do well is technical support in the US.
 
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@Dancallun

a nikasil coated chamber (no one calls it that way) cylinder wall shall be scratched?

can´t be - nikasil is nearly as hard as diamonds the cyls are good for more than 150 000 mi !!!

ask the so called specalists for a camera pic of the scratch
they should have such a pic because they only can say so if they have a special endoscope camera that fits through the spark hole into the cylinder
if they can´t show you that pic flee that shop with your bike
they wanna robb you :( by a huge fine :(

what cost estimate did they make?

as we say here - they ly in the moment they open their mouth

so my recom. was to
go somewhere who has the endoscope and look inside
if there is really in deed a scratch (what i can´t believe)
go to ebay and buy a used cylinderblock and its pistons (all under 50 000 mi are good and usable) where the seller says seriously that he had measured all the cyl. and the pistons in 1/100 of a millimeter !!!
ask the seller for pics of his cyl.-block and its pistons
and if both are better than then limit (see manual)
both are in good conds.
after getting the cyl/pitons join your suzuki dealer and get a set of piston rings for all 4 pistons
plus the head gasket and the "foot" gasket

the rest of the job is best described in the manual (gen2)
only prerequisite is that you have the correct tools (torque 4-20 & 20-80 Nm, metric ratchet, etc.) and a good knowledge of "screwing/wrenching" a motor and bike.

then the job won´t bring anorexia to your wallet
Wow thank you Berlin, I didn't know they had such a tough coating. That makes sense though my dad had an old Kawasaki cafe racer he used to ride crazy hard 100% of the time, he'd blow engine parts and rebuild it but never any cylinder wall issues. I will definitely ask the shop again, the mechanic's english is a little unclear so maybe I missed something. When I asked him what I can do to fix it he shrugged his shoulders and basically said you can't, like I need a new engine or something. I'll ask them again on Monday.
 
Best advice I can give you is to avoid the dealership and reach out here on the forum. There is an excellent sponsor as well as many folks who can refer you to someone available to look at the bike and tell you what needs to be done. And do it for you.

What the mechanic told you makes me see Dollar signs with no reputation and confidence that this will turn out well.
Thank you Jelly. I see what you mean but they haven't offered me any expensive solutions so far, their work has been good and they have been charging me fair prices. Maybe they've made some kind of mistake or miscommunication? I will talk to them tomorrow and get more info, in the meantime I definitely wouldn't mind any referrals to someone else who can look at it. I live in the Point Loma southern San Diego area.
 
Do you think it's a terrible idea to ride it as is? I mean it's still fast for me and I haven't lost a race to any of thes cocky street racers yet lol. I'm still considering increasing the displacement of the engine, is that not done by boring out the cylinder walls to be bigger?
I don't know how much it matters that you only have one cylinder with low compression. My X-14 has comporession that's just barely in spec on all cylinders and I still ride it. I can't tell the compression is low.
 
I don't know how much it matters that you only have one cylinder with low compression. My X-14 has comporession that's just barely in spec on all cylinders and I still ride it. I can't tell the compression is low.
Wow thank you so much Mythos. I feel like my Busa still runs well too, I would have never guessed low compression. I plan to just ride it for now and think about what to do with the engine. It's a great bike regardless, I have lots of fun on bends and corners and cutting through traffic, it's still gives me blurry tunnel vision when I go full throttle. I got on my Yamaha xj750 and felt like I was barely leaning but started scraping the pegs . I didn't realize how much I've been increasing the lean angle as I get better at riding my Busa, anyone who says these bikes can't lean or handle really has no clue. I feel safer on this bike than any other in the past, they're just all around fantastic. I still love my baby even with her flaws lol.

Btw do you know how to donate? This forum has been great.
 
If you like to wrench, it would not be too expensive nor difficult to do a compression test of your own. Get the engine good and hot, lift the fuel tank, remove stick coils, remove one spark plug and insert tester, crank until the needle stops climbing. Put spark plug back in and do the next one. I would probably go with a press in tip on the tester rather than a thread in. If you're pressing hard you know the tip is sealing well.
 
I would definitely ask for pictures of the wall damage like @Berlin Germany mentioned. I can understand if something was sucked in there, but if they think it is unrepairable then I would want proof.
 
If you like to wrench, it would not be too expensive nor difficult to do a compression test of your own. Get the engine good and hot, lift the fuel tank, remove stick coils, remove one spark plug and insert tester, crank until the needle stops climbing. Put spark plug back in and do the next one. I would probably go with a press in tip on the tester rather than a thread in. If you're pressing hard you know the tip is sealing well.

Aren’t all the plugs supposed to be removed for a proper Comp test?
 
Aren’t all the plugs supposed to be removed for a proper Comp test?
Yep. Correction, remove all plugs. Just make sure the top of the motor and around the sparkplugs are very clean so nothing gets sucked in after you take the plugs out and crank. Cranking with any plugs in will slow down the starter motor and drain the battery more.
 
Just in case you do find a little change laying around. All things chrome are selling BRAND NEW gen 2 busa motors on eBay. COMPLETE, header, air filter, oil cooler, free shipping. $4500
 
If I went to a shop,and they called the cylinder wall,a chamber wall...ide turn around and run....lol

Ide just buy a good used block if nicasil was damaged...and repair worn later

You can get a good used block for 3-350 ....and that's all you would need to spend to be back on the road....if you did it yourself

 
yep @moko lots of blocks available ;)

but @Dancallun

ask the seller for detailed pics of the cyls. and pistons

and don´t forgett to get the new head ´n foot gasket(s)

but - again - before you spend only a cent do the endoscope-job !
and do a leak down test too
you need compr. air at 8-10 bar + the tool,
you can buy at ebay - for instance this
leak down tester
 
Just in case you do find a little change laying around. All things chrome are selling BRAND NEW gen 2 busa motors on eBay. COMPLETE, header, air filter, oil cooler, free shipping. $4500
I neer knew it was possible to get a brand new engine without buying a brand new bike. Must be pretty rare to find these available.
 
Thanks for all the replies everyone, I asked for the pics and should be able to pick up the bike tomorrow and give an update. But just out of curiosity what do you guys think of Carpenter Racing's packages and head porting? Would this reduce the durability of the engine?
Packages
Head Porting
 
@Dancallun

(...) what do you guys think of Carpenter Racing's packages and head porting? (...)
more power at the busa for what?
1/4 mile? ok may be nice depending on the class you wanna drive

road? nonsense - money would be so much better invested at safety-school every year (or 2nd) and race track schools with lots of close corners and lots of huge leaning angles.

in advance - please excuse my following, eventually harsh words.

learn first to get all the usual busa´s power on the road (4 stop light runs).
in other words:
practice the interaction between the throttle and clutch until it works perfectly after a long period of training.
only if then someone is faster than you at the jump start,
you can ponder more power.

btw.:
a few years ago, with my girlfriend on the back of my ´00 busa, i left a tuned up porsche 911 behind me - only a 4-1 akra was installed - otherwise absolutely no modifications - all standard.

my point of view is :
if you, in deed, wanna more hp in real, grab deeeeeeep into your pocket and spend some thousands of bucks and get a turbo installed - anything else is only a fumbling around and sounds only like a wawa enlargement (to quote my bros in mind @rubbersidedown) .
 
I neer knew it was possible to get a brand new engine without buying a brand new bike. Must be pretty rare to find these available.
Its not possible and very rare,they just got lucky and someone else had already bought the bikes and pulled the motors before the company went under. The guys that make the t rex sell off all the frames and body parts after they strip the motors because suzuki won't sell the motors separately and makes them buy the whole bike.
 
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