anti-seize a must?

shogun

Registered
hey guys. when replacing the spark plugs, do i HAVE to put a small dab of anti-zeize on the threads? ive read somehwere on the forum thats you should but is this necessary?
 
If you plan on ever changing them again it will make it MUCH easier the next time if you use it :beerchug:
 
ok thanks. i think i'll skip that step this time around. busa how does it make it easier? the threads undo easier or?
 
ok thanks. i think i'll skip that step this time around. busa how does it make it easier? the threads undo easier or?
after changing several thousand plugs in aluminum heads (racing and stock applications), I think it does a few things..

galling is the transfer of metals to one another.. in the case of plug threads, it is a disaster, the oil in anti seize can help stop it.. I actually only use it every other time on race motors because the plugs come and go so often.. make sure you torque the plugs EXACTLY as directed.. (you could use half a drop of motor oil on the threads)

Heat transfer is another issue, the small amount of metallic filler the anti seize provides may help heat transfer a bit away from the plugs.. (not really much of an issue on stock motors but on forced induction/nitrous/hot rod motors, it could save a round of pistons, on long or hard runs, a spark plug can get hot and turn into a glow plug....

A tender touch is required regardless, cross threaded plugs are not a very good thing..
 
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gotchya. the plugs are torgued to 7pounds right? so a small dab on anti-seize AND a drop of motor oil on the threads? My motor is bone stock. so i dont have to worry too much about the anti-seize correct?
 
gotchya. the plugs are torgued to 7pounds right? so a small dab on anti-seize AND a drop of motor oil on the threads? My motor is bone stock. so i dont have to worry too much about the anti-seize correct?
so a small dab on anti-seize OR a drop of motor oil on the threads? (keep it off the electrodes)

go buy some anti seize and use it sparingly.. (works wonders on rear axles shafts and "steel/aluminum" combos)
 
I use it too but you don't have to.

http://www.ngkplugpro.ca/content/contentfiles/pdf/NGKSP-0907-1-Anti-SeizeonSparkPlugs.pdf


For spark plugs with special metal plating; do not use anti-seize on the initial
installation. If a spark plug with special metal plating is removed and re-installed,
only then should anti-seize be used prior to “re-installation”.
It is recommended to use spark plugs with the special plating on all aluminum
cylinder head applications to prevent damage to the cylinder head. The shell
plating acts as a “lubricant” which breaks away from the main body of the spark
plug during removal thus preventing the bonding of the aluminum from the
cylinder head to the threads.
All NGK Spark Plugs are manufactured with special shell plating on the metal body.
The use of anti-seize on spark plugs is only recommended on those brands that
do not offer a special metal shell plating. Spark plugs that have a shiny silver
appearance on the metal body usually indicate that the spark plug is
manufactured with special metal shell plating. All spark plugs that have a
blackened or dull appearance on the metal body offer no protection against
seizing or protection against bonding to the aluminum cylinder head.
 
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+1000. I use it whenever I have a steel fastener going into aluminum (except of course for loctite applicable fasteners!) I even use it on the fairing fasteners that tap into the frame! I had one gall on me and it was a mother to get out. Live and learn!

(works wonders on rear axles shafts and "steel/aluminum" combos)
 
I use it too but you don't have to.

http://www.ngkplugpro.ca/content/contentfiles/pdf/NGKSP-0907-1-Anti-SeizeonSparkPlugs.pdf


For spark plugs with special metal plating; do not use anti-seize on the initial
installation. If a spark plug with special metal plating is removed and re-installed,
only then should anti-seize be used prior to “re-installationâ€￾.
It is recommended to use spark plugs with the special plating on all aluminum
cylinder head applications to prevent damage to the cylinder head. The shell
plating acts as a “lubricantâ€￾ which breaks away from the main body of the spark
plug during removal thus preventing the bonding of the aluminum from the
cylinder head to the threads.
All NGK Spark Plugs are manufactured with special shell plating on the metal body.
The use of anti-seize on spark plugs is only recommended on those brands that
do not offer a special metal shell plating. Spark plugs that have a shiny silver
appearance on the metal body usually indicate that the spark plug is
manufactured with special metal shell plating. All spark plugs that have a
blackened or dull appearance on the metal body offer no protection against
seizing or protection against bonding to the aluminum cylinder head.
Trivalent coatings? new to me... might note that if anti seize was ever used on the motor, it is already in the threads.. I think the key here is "Proper torque" Must admit I have not used a torque wrench on a spark plug in more years than i care to admit too.. good article, thanks..
 
Trivalent coatings? new to me... might note that if anti seize was ever used on the motor, it is already in the threads.. I think the key here is "Proper torque" Must admit I have not used a torque wrench on a spark plug in more years than i care to admit too.. good article, thanks..

Hey you're welcome.
I would never trust a torque wrench on a fastener or spark plug when you use anti seize.
It is said it reduces the torque by up to 30%.
Knowing that, you just have to go by "feel" and even cut that back a bit, as if you strip it, that is a real pain.
 
Hey you're welcome.
I would never trust a torque wrench on a fastener or spark plug when you use anti seize.
It is said it reduces the torque by up to 30%.
Knowing that, you just have to go by "feel" and even cut that back a bit, as if you strip it, that is a real pain.
torque specs are a funny thing... you ALWAYs need to read what the manufacture suggests..

Some ask for motor oil, some grease, some dry.. YOU must use what they ask for or you are right, the numbers mean nothing..

After you change a few thousand spark plugs in motors, you can tell when the gasket hits, if it has been crushed already and if you have it tightened correctly.. Most spark plug makers use the "clock" method (1/4 turn after contact on new plugs etc) I would prefer a spark plug be a ft pound too tight than too loose however.. Loose plugs can do a lot of damage.. where a slightly over tight one is just going to be a bit snug on removal provided the threads are not dry.. Stripped threads are a headache but easily fixed..
 
torque specs are a funny thing... you ALWAYs need to read what the manufacture suggests..

Some ask for motor oil, some grease, some dry.. YOU must use what they ask for or you are right, the numbers mean nothing..

After you change a few thousand spark plugs in motors, you can tell when the gasket hits, if it has been crushed already and if you have it tightened correctly.. Most spark plug makers use the "clock" method (1/4 turn after contact on new plugs etc) I would prefer a spark plug be a ft pound too tight than too loose however.. Loose plugs can do a lot of damage.. where a slightly over tight one is just going to be a bit snug on removal provided the threads are not dry.. Stripped threads are a headache but easily fixed..


I sure agree with all that.
 
Experienced individuals know when things are tight. Not to say that torquing is unneccesary but I cant imagine how some one could strip the threads out of a sparkplug hole. If you cant tell that you reached the point of overtightening you should not be installing them.
 
The same way they're stripping oil drain plugs, don't know when to stop.
 
so if im reading everything correctly as the article says the anti-seize is not necessary on the CR9E NGK's because they are already coated with a special metal and anti-zeize could just cause over tightening! i think on this one i'll just set my torque wrench to 7pounds of torque and listen for that CLICK:thumbsup: great article mike.
 
so if im reading everything correctly as the article says the anti-seize is not necessary on the CR9E NGK's because they are already coated with a special metal and anti-zeize could just cause over tightening! i think on this one i'll just set my torque wrench to 7pounds of torque and listen for that CLICK:thumbsup: great article mike.

That's how I'm reading it.

Good information in this thread.

I've never used anti-seize but I have a graphite engine assembly lube that I use on plugs and I've never had a problem so far. I change plugs ever 7K miles and they pop right out.

--Wag--
 
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