after changing several thousand plugs in aluminum heads (racing and stock applications), I think it does a few things..ok thanks. i think i'll skip that step this time around. busa how does it make it easier? the threads undo easier or?
so a small dab on anti-seize OR a drop of motor oil on the threads? (keep it off the electrodes)gotchya. the plugs are torgued to 7pounds right? so a small dab on anti-seize AND a drop of motor oil on the threads? My motor is bone stock. so i dont have to worry too much about the anti-seize correct?
(works wonders on rear axles shafts and "steel/aluminum" combos)
Trivalent coatings? new to me... might note that if anti seize was ever used on the motor, it is already in the threads.. I think the key here is "Proper torque" Must admit I have not used a torque wrench on a spark plug in more years than i care to admit too.. good article, thanks..I use it too but you don't have to.
http://www.ngkplugpro.ca/content/contentfiles/pdf/NGKSP-0907-1-Anti-SeizeonSparkPlugs.pdf
For spark plugs with special metal plating; do not use anti-seize on the initial
installation. If a spark plug with special metal plating is removed and re-installed,
only then should anti-seize be used prior to “re-installationâ€.
It is recommended to use spark plugs with the special plating on all aluminum
cylinder head applications to prevent damage to the cylinder head. The shell
plating acts as a “lubricant†which breaks away from the main body of the spark
plug during removal thus preventing the bonding of the aluminum from the
cylinder head to the threads.
All NGK Spark Plugs are manufactured with special shell plating on the metal body.
The use of anti-seize on spark plugs is only recommended on those brands that
do not offer a special metal shell plating. Spark plugs that have a shiny silver
appearance on the metal body usually indicate that the spark plug is
manufactured with special metal shell plating. All spark plugs that have a
blackened or dull appearance on the metal body offer no protection against
seizing or protection against bonding to the aluminum cylinder head.
Trivalent coatings? new to me... might note that if anti seize was ever used on the motor, it is already in the threads.. I think the key here is "Proper torque" Must admit I have not used a torque wrench on a spark plug in more years than i care to admit too.. good article, thanks..
torque specs are a funny thing... you ALWAYs need to read what the manufacture suggests..Hey you're welcome.
I would never trust a torque wrench on a fastener or spark plug when you use anti seize.
It is said it reduces the torque by up to 30%.
Knowing that, you just have to go by "feel" and even cut that back a bit, as if you strip it, that is a real pain.
torque specs are a funny thing... you ALWAYs need to read what the manufacture suggests..
Some ask for motor oil, some grease, some dry.. YOU must use what they ask for or you are right, the numbers mean nothing..
After you change a few thousand spark plugs in motors, you can tell when the gasket hits, if it has been crushed already and if you have it tightened correctly.. Most spark plug makers use the "clock" method (1/4 turn after contact on new plugs etc) I would prefer a spark plug be a ft pound too tight than too loose however.. Loose plugs can do a lot of damage.. where a slightly over tight one is just going to be a bit snug on removal provided the threads are not dry.. Stripped threads are a headache but easily fixed..
so if im reading everything correctly as the article says the anti-seize is not necessary on the CR9E NGK's because they are already coated with a special metal and anti-zeize could just cause over tightening! i think on this one i'll just set my torque wrench to 7pounds of torque and listen for that CLICK great article mike.