Aluminum Anti-seize On Body Bolts?

bobq31

Registered
I found a 99 in really fantastic condition, and aside from an exhaust is TOTALLY stock. Being so stock, most of the bolts have been sitting in their current spot for 17 years. I'm having a lot of trouble getting most of them out without impact tools and most of them are showing signs of some corrosion.

Is there any downside to putting anti-seize on every bolt/screw that I can get to?

Permatex makes an aluminum anti-seize that they say does help with galvanic corrosion. I thought hell, while I'm tearing this thing apart, I might as well put it back together with this anti-seize, unless of course there are some folks who have a reason that it might not be a good idea.
 
We run at Bonneville so I have anti-seize slathered all over everything especially where a steel bolt goes into aluminum.
You do have to back the torque down somewhat compared to the specs since Suzuki calls for bolts to be assembled dry.
 
Usually 90% of specified torque when using ss or aluminum fasteners with anti-sieze.
 
We run at Bonneville so I have anti-seize slathered all over everything especially where a steel bolt goes into aluminum.
You do have to back the torque down somewhat compared to the specs since Suzuki calls for bolts to be assembled dry.

Do you spend a lot of time make sure everything stays in place or does anti-seize not really contribute to stuff vibrating loose?

I have two mechanic friends who are telling me that it's the worst idea in the world. That the bolts will vibrate loose and I'll immediately catch on fire an then on to death. I understand that the factory doesn't do this, but I'm an aircraft mechanic and even Boeing can't make aluminum and steel play well together. Why does Suzuki think it's any different?
 
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I've never had a properly torqued bolt back off when anti-seized but have had plenty of bolts break off because they are seized in an aluminum thread.
When I worked for Caterpillar as a mechanic we used copper anti seize by the can.
Suzuki probably never intended their bikes to be run at the salt flats at least judging by the lack of grease and all the rust in my steering head bearings.
I've heard if you want a really stuck bolt, dry thread a titanium bolt in aluminum threads.
 
Any fastener in danger of vibrating loose should be safety wired.
There's no particular fastener I'de be concerned about vibrating loose street riding, but it's never a bad idea to check any of them before a ride, anti-seize or not.
Anti-seize does what it says, obviously, it keeps aluminum or stainless from gawling, especially in steel.
It also gums the threads enough to where they don't tend to vibrate out street riding.
Never hurts to add a lock washer, or a nylon insert lock nut whenever possible.
So, use anti-seize, or be prepared to randomly pull threads out when removing ss or aluminum bolts without it...like you're doing now.:beerchug:
 
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