So I'm at the point where I have no choice but to buy a pc. Now the question is: Which one? I've found a solid steal on a pc3 EX, the pc3r is by far the most affordable, but everyone seems to be using the pc3 usb. I know the EX won't allow you to make changes in the low range but is that part necessary? Also, from what I can gather from other posts, all that's needed for the pc3r is a conversion cable that'll connect to a usb port to change the settings. So should I save the money and go cheaper or is it not worth it? GPW, I would REALLY appreciate some input from you as well as anyone else with solid info.
Another PowerCommander question
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The pc3-EX is complete crap that power commander had to make to satisy california. If you want anything resembling crisp throttle response stay as far away from the EX as you can. It limits the very areas you need to adjust to get that crisp response. Either of the other 2 would do fine. The R version lets you adjust the timing as well as the fuel maps, the pc3-USB lets you adjust just the fuel maps...but in 250rpm increments instead of 500 like the R. I'm not sure how compatible the R is with newer power commander add ons tho like the LCD display. I think DJ phased out the R version so you'd have to buy the multi-hub and ignition module seperately and spend about 3 times as much to do the same thing the R did. Gotta love big business
Hell you do not GPW input for this one it is a no brainer fella go with the R version of the PCIII and get the USB only way to go the EX model BLOWS!!!
I believe the Hub and the Ignition Modules take their input from the PC
GPW is (Greg)from GPW Preformance
Not at all. TEKA BOX is alright, but with a PCIII USB and a good tuned map for your bike is 100x better. TEKA can't even begin to compare to a Power Commander.
Also do NOT get the PCIIIr, go with the PCIII USB it's a lot beter and if you really think you need to mess with your timing get the Ignition Module.
Not at all. TEKA BOX is alright, but with a PCIII USB and a good tuned map for your bike is 100x better. TEKA can't even begin to compare to a Power Commander.
Also do NOT get the PCIIIr, go with the PCIII USB it's a lot beter and if you really think you need to mess with your timing get the Ignition Module.
Also do NOT get the PCIIIr, go with the PCIII USB it's a lot beter and if you really think you need to mess with your timing get the Ignition Module.
Great info. Thanks.The pc3-EX is complete crap that power commander had to make to satisy california. If you want anything resembling crisp throttle response stay as far away from the EX as you can. It limits the very areas you need to adjust to get that crisp response. Either of the other 2 would do fine. The R version lets you adjust the timing as well as the fuel maps, the pc3-USB lets you adjust just the fuel maps...but in 250rpm increments instead of 500 like the R. I'm not sure how compatible the R is with newer power commander add ons tho like the LCD display. I think DJ phased out the R version so you'd have to buy the multi-hub and ignition module seperately and spend about 3 times as much to do the same thing the R did. Gotta love big business
The main mod that seems to be causing me grief is the B2 exhaust. It has so much flow that flames are coming out the tail end. Other than tons of chrome and paint, nothing else. I tried the marble mod but it only stopped the popping on decel. I have to take fuel out of the mix...I think.
So the EX is definately out. The only question I'm still pondering even after the responses is whether to get the "R" because it's less expensive and allows for timing adjustment which I'll need cause I plan on running nitrous in the near future, or the "USB" because it's newer and expandable... Call me cheap but in order to get the USB to do what the R does it's going to run around $600 compared to $200 for a brand new R.
The R is no longer produced, that is why you are finding a IIIr discounted for that much (or are you buying it from a private seller).
You can not expand it later
Adding a hub to the USB you can run two maps. You can trigger the map change with your nitrous setup to automatically change the fuel map (and I believe the timing if you have the ignition module) Or run a toggle to change the map
You can make changes to the map by gear.
You can activate a shift light or air shifter with it.
You can use it as a kill for an air shifter.
You can use the outputs to cut out the nitrous before the revlimiter or actuate the nitrous bases on TPS and RPM
Using both outputs you can make a window switch. Later firmware changes may allow more programmability to do it with 1 out put
You can add a LCD display
Changes to the map can be made in 250 vs 500 rpm steps with the USB
You can tune individual cylinders
Connect to you computer by a USB cable (does your laptop have a serial port? More $$ and a bit of luck needed getting one that will connect)
None of this can be done with a PCIIIR but you are correct, to get the timing retard you may be looking for in the future, will cost you more. The USB will provide what I consider a mandatory window switch for the N2O that will cost another $100 with IIIr setup.
You can not expand it later
Adding a hub to the USB you can run two maps. You can trigger the map change with your nitrous setup to automatically change the fuel map (and I believe the timing if you have the ignition module) Or run a toggle to change the map
You can make changes to the map by gear.
You can activate a shift light or air shifter with it.
You can use it as a kill for an air shifter.
You can use the outputs to cut out the nitrous before the revlimiter or actuate the nitrous bases on TPS and RPM
Using both outputs you can make a window switch. Later firmware changes may allow more programmability to do it with 1 out put
You can add a LCD display
Changes to the map can be made in 250 vs 500 rpm steps with the USB
You can tune individual cylinders
Connect to you computer by a USB cable (does your laptop have a serial port? More $$ and a bit of luck needed getting one that will connect)
None of this can be done with a PCIIIR but you are correct, to get the timing retard you may be looking for in the future, will cost you more. The USB will provide what I consider a mandatory window switch for the N2O that will cost another $100 with IIIr setup.
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