Anomalies after Camshaft swap (?)

[Busarider29]

Greetings fellow Busa owners/experts!

So, I just started the bike for the first time after the camshaft swap to Brock's cams and a fresh ECU flash from Moore Mafia. Note also, that the bike was sitting in my barn all winter (I live in Michigan) without being started. Anyway, the bike started up fine and sounds fine. However, there was quite a bit of smoke coming from the headers, where they mate with the engine. I shut it down immediately and checked things. Nothing appeared out of the ordinary, so I started it again. The smoke eventually deceased, so I'm assuming it was just burn in/off of the new cams (?). I don't know, perhaps it's normal after the bike sits all winter (?).

Also, the fan is staying on after I hit the engine kill switch. It wasn't doing that before the Cam swap/ECU flash. From the temperature gauge, it doesn't appear hot, as the needle is only about 1/4 of the way up. Also, F1 light is on, and that wasn't on before either. I plugged everything back in correctly.

I'm going to flush the coolant tomorrow, as it's time. Still concerned about the fan.

[Spudley]

There's lots to learn on these motors. Keep us posted after you get done with the coolant flush, and all the other anomalies have been worked out. Clear the codes, start from scratch.

Attention to detail works well on these motors. Don't sweat the fans, if the key is on the fans will run.

[Busarider29]

There's lots to learn on these motors. Keep us posted after you get done with the coolant flush, and all the other anomalies have been worked out. Clear the codes, start from scratch.

Attention to detail works well on these motors. Don't sweat the fans, if the key is on the fans will run.

Looking more closely at the check-off sheet received from Moore Mafia with the ECU, they decreased the fan trigger-on point to 195°. Perhaps that explains the fan coming on early and staying on. Last night, I ordered this code reader from "Boost By Smith". I'll post back after I receive it, clear the codes, etc.. Doing the coolant flush tonight after work. Thank you!

[Dustin02]

After the ecu has been unplugged and put back in, it takes a few drive cycles for the check engine light to go away. I think it is 3 cycles.

[Spudley]

My temperature gauge started acting funny, so Greg recommended I do a static disconnected gauge reset. I took the negative posts off the battery, disconnected the ECU, all three connections, reconnect the negative post of the battery, and cycle the key on then off on then off. Then take the negative post back off reconnect your ECU and then reconnect your negative post and the gauge will reset itself.

I was reading 3/4 cold. And the fans cycled normally so the gauge was misbehaving. The motor wasn't running hot. I know that for sure. Once I reset the gauge cluster the temperature gauge went back to working like normal. I have a CM flash also. Thanks Greg !!!

[GIXERHP]

Does the new cams have adjustable sprockets?
What did you degree the cams to?

[Ked0607]

My temperature gauge started acting funny, so Greg recommended I do a static disconnected gauge reset. I took the negative posts off the battery, disconnected the ECU, all three connections, reconnect the negative post of the battery, and cycle the key on then off on then off. Then take the negative post back off reconnect your ECU and then reconnect your negative post and the gauge will reset itself.

I was reading 3/4 cold. And the fans cycled normally so the gauge was misbehaving. The motor wasn't running hot. I know that for sure. Once I reset the gauge cluster the temperature gauge went back to working like normal. I have a CM flash also. Thanks Greg !!!

Thanks Spud. I had same 1/4 guage only. Just gave it a try will ride tomorrow and see how it goes after a few tugs on the wrist controls.....

[Busarider29]

UPDATE!

Ok, so I received the code reader today from "BoostBySmith". I plugged it into the bike to read the OBD2 codes, and these were the codes showing on the dash of the bike:

P1106
C1782

The code reader was showing these two and a few others. I don't recall all but there were 6 in total on the code reader. Appears that simply clearing the codes via the code reader remedied the problem. The F1 and Engine light are no longer present. Bike running and sounding great after the cam swap!! Now onto the swingarm and lowering kit. Thanks everyone!

[Busarider29]

Does the new cams have adjustable sprockets?
What did you degree the cams to?

The new cams do not have adjustable sprockets. Still, the sprockets were removed momentarily because I wanted ceramic cam bearings in lieu of the steel ones the cams came with. I marked the location on the sprockets and cams and then took them into a local performance engine builder shop near me to do the bearing swap. The sprockets are back on the cams the same location they came off.

[jwcfbd]

UPDATE!

Ok, so I received the code reader today from "BoostBySmith". I plugged it into the bike to read the OBD2 codes, and these were the codes showing on the dash of the bike:

P1106
C1782

The code reader was showing these two and a few others. I don't recall all but there were 6 in total on the code reader. Appears that simply clearing the codes via the code reader remedied the problem. The F1 and Engine light are no longer present. Bike running and sounding great after the cam swap!! Now onto the swingarm and lowering kit. Thanks everyone!

I'm glad you're getting things sorted out.