All future intercooled bikes will have this for sure!

GPW

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Lower Air Temps By 50-250+ Degrees & Increase Power 10-15% With ONLY Windshield Wiper Fluid!
That's right! Using nothing more then windshield wiper fluid you can quickly achieve the benefits of a water

methanol injection system. Best of all, it's very easy to locate just about anywhere in the states and cost only $2.00-$3.00 per gallon. But not just any windshield wiper fluid will do. You'll need to buy the windshield wiper fluid that is rated for negative 20 degrees or greater below zero. It is only this windshield wiper fluid, which contains a 50% content or greater of methanol. Using strictly windshield wiper fluid you can expect to see a 50-250+ degree drop in air intake charge temperatures on supercharged and turbocharged engines with horsepower gains ranging from 10-15% are common. (temperature drops and horsepower gains vary depending on engine build, type supercharger or turbocharger used, amount of boost and intercooled or non-intercooled)
 
Ha, ask whoever wrote that add where the heat went?

Richard

Its from a pretty popular automotive segment parts company. Just use google. We will certainly play with it on an intercooled and non-intercooled bike, to find the truth's or lies...something to do over the winter months. Testing...got to love it. They even claim it works on a natrually aspirated bike. If thats true that makes NOS way more friendly or not.
 
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I have about 39 pages to read on all types of Alcohol and Methanol Injection. Then I have come up with testing....with an intercooler the heat would leave the normal way. Especially with an air/water set-up. Just a guess.
 
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Yeah most people with turbos have heard of water/methanol injection before. Nothing new here. :beerchug:
New for me... looking to make more power. I do not want tips. Just created a topic for those that wish to discuss it or not. No worries on my end. This by no means is an argue thread..
 
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Let us know if you gain any hp without turning the boost up, there is a tradeoff with cooling the intake charge increasing the density and the extra space steam takes up after the water evaporates .. very much debated subject if you have the time to google it, aquamist also have a many page thread that makes an interesting read

in my opinion what you do end up with is extra detonation protection which may allow a couple of extra psi boost before you damage things.
 
New for me... looking to make more power. I do not want tips. Just created a topic for those that wish to discuss it or not. No worries on my end. This by no means is an argue thread..

No tips here. You'll do great, I'm sure Greg! My comment had no ill intentions.

Please let us know how everything turns out :thumbsup:
 
Let us know if you gain any hp without turning the boost up, there is a tradeoff with cooling the intake charge increasing the density and the extra space steam takes up after the water evaporates .. very much debated subject if you have the time to google it, aquamist also have a many page thread that makes an interesting read

in my opinion what you do end up with is extra detonation protection which may allow a couple of extra psi boost before you damage things.
thanks
 
No tips here. You'll do great, I'm sure Greg! My comment had no ill intentions.

Please let us know how everything turns out :thumbsup:
No worries, we have a bunch of guys that love to re-look over the old stuff. I find an interest in this stuff particularly because the tuning was not the same, way back when when the doofy old guys were trying to go fast. When you find someone who appears to have all the answers, ask them where the answers got them... :beerchug:
 
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Always wanted to be called a "Doofy old guy" :rofl:

next thing ya know you will have some new fangled charge air coolers that use brine and dry ice.. or even more innovative nitrogen or nitrous...

hot rodders on the west coast and in the southewest have been making water/methanol injection units with windshield washer kits and ford spray nozzles since the at least the 50's

one of the pitfalls of these systems on an intercooled motor is "pooling" and so other things need to happen.. Just that water injection is nothing new and not sure what "new" things you are going to figure out that guys working in the home garages have not known for a long time..

All future intercooled bikes will have this for sure! just cracked me up was all... sorry...
 
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About 6 years ago a friend and I did a junkyard turbo 5.0 stang and used a $199 water injection kit from a reliable mustang parts developer. I think we used Peak sub zero washer fluid. The power came when only we advanced the timing a few degrees. Final results were 6.20s on a home brewed car that we paid $500 total and 2 ebay turbos. Call any ama pro street team (Henson, Stotz,Adams ....) and see what its all about.Its old technology but it works.
 
About 6 years ago a friend and I did a junkyard turbo 5.0 stang and used a $199 water injection kit from a reliable mustang parts developer. I think we used Peak sub zero washer fluid. The power came when only we advanced the timing a few degrees. Final results were 6.20s on a home brewed car that we paid $500 total and 2 ebay turbos. Call any ama pro street team (Henson, Stotz,Adams ....) and see what its all about.Its old technology but it works.
and the guy you blew away has a clean windshield!! :) you know that is the best stuff... budget DIY and it works... We used the water/methanol as the poor mans intercooler...

what we did find is at that at higher volumes (if a little is good, a lot more is better right?) :laugh: , the weight of the water/methanol could actually "bend" (more like flatten out) the cold side wheels in the turbo.. (this was in a "quad" turbo 500CID top alcohol motor) NHRA later that year banned our water injection and handed us 200lbs when we had the first 200 mph top alcohol car at the mile high nationals.. (effectively banned the car).. sukd....

I like the simplicity of the bike turbo's... just a lot less plumbing to deal with and the new electronics? is no wonder you can street a 300hp bike today... trying to do all this on carbs (wet or dry) was a nightmare on any given day.. The FI systems have really made turbo bikes uber practical....
 
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Always wanted to be called a "Doofy old guy" :rofl:

next thing ya know you will have some new fangled charge air coolers that use brine and dry ice.. or even more innovative nitrogen or nitrous...

hot rodders on the west coast and in the southewest have been making water/methanol injection units with windshield washer kits and ford spray nozzles since the at least the 50's

one of the pitfalls of these systems on an intercooled motor is "pooling" and so other things need to happen.. Just that water injection is nothing new and not sure what "new" things you are going to figure out that guys working in the home garages have not known for a long time..

All future intercooled bikes will have this for sure! just cracked me up was all... sorry...
that should have read, bikes from HPC...we are building bikes today for tomorrow, not yesterday.
 
Also, an injection system used TODAY.....would have a progressive controller, additional over flow mounted on the bike and have a sharp mist like fuel injection and the fluid would be ICE cold. Thats my approach I think...........still a rookie, dummie or even a monkey. But I am me..
 
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Also, an injection system used TODAY.....would have a progressive controller, additional over flow mounted on the bike and have a sharp mist like fuel injection and the fluid would be ICE cold. Thats my approach I think...........
Some of the systems tried used a "sort of" approach to "progressive"

by porting boost pressures to the water vessel (had to do this on intercooled motors anyway due to the downstream injection)


as boost pressure comes up so did water volume (pre-boost side systems)..

The boost pressure on the bottle kept the system from blowing bubbles on the "boosted" side systems that went post intercooler..

A "blow off" also needed installed to keep from flooding the unit on shutdown..

This all had to be done "mechanically" to stay inside racing body rules.. Todays electronics? much better...
 
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