2008 Busa brake upgrades

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Meh.... that's cool. I learned long ago to avoid being upset regarding what anyone does (or doesn't do) with any info I share on the various forums[/quote]

But healthy debate is always good right  
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Apples and oranges, mang.  Racing environment and street environment are two different animals. Look at the MotoGP brake systems.... ceramic composite rotors, carbon/carbon brake systems, etc. Much, MUCH higher heat and forces than what one can (legally) do on the street.
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Here you point out "Apples and Oranges" which I assume you mean "Street and Track" applications?
But somewhere before the current ceramic and carbon brake components of today there were the highest end metal rotors, used when did the wave style get the nod?  
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Just looked for some pics of Moto GP bikes with wave rotors and came up empty

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To a degree, but it's not the same as the large oval cutouts on the Galfers. Look at the relative sizes of the small circular holes and their placement. Not samey-same.    
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Since were comparing "apples" and such what degree is used on the street?

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Okay.    I myself tend to use personal, direct observations under conditions that I ride the bike under.  Any other study doesn't mean a whole lot to me (personally) except to perhaps form generalized conclusions and/or trending.
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Like wise your "observations" don't hold much water VS scientific evidence from unbiased testing.
Ass sphincter dyno reports and the like don't tell me much  
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More apples/oranges, my brutha. Car designers/engineers don't give a flying rat's butt about unsprung weight [/quote]

Really? I thought Formula One was pretty advanced in motor sports...
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Other things to ponder...if wave rotor dissipate heat faster due to reduced mass don't they also acquire heat faster?

You quickly dismiss less area for braking to apply to on a wave rotor by citing other components. Weren't we talking about wave rotors specifically? I mean all other components being equal there isn't there less surface area to absorb heat and apply braking forces to?

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Warchild how much are a set of the brembo 19x18 radial master cylinder, do they make both for the clutch and the brakes, and is it necessary to use one for the clutch side, or only for the brakes, I think a radial master cylinder,steel braided lines, and good of pads would be fine. Please post, thanks..
 
Warchild how much are a set of the brembo 19x18 radial master cylinder, do they make both for the clutch and the brakes
I dunno, you got me.... do a
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and let us know what you find...
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is it necessary to use one for the clutch side, or only for the brakes[/quote]


I suspect the former is unnecessary.
 
Wave rotors do offer a weight savings over stock ones...but they are mostly HYPE. They do look cool though. Spend your money on a GOOD Brembo master, upgrade your lines and pads
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As for the rotors...the stock ones work fine with the other upgrades...when your stock rotors are worn and ready to be replaced, then you could consider upgrading rotors.

Waves are somewhat a FAD and you will not find them in any type of racing (serious racing) motorcycles or cars. MotoGp, Formula 1...these guys have virtually unlimited budgets and they never adopted the "Wave Technology" ummmm...sounds like it isn't the wave to go.

They do look
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though...I wouldn't waste my $$$ on them.
 
does somebody quite simply, have to try to put hose connections aviation, to see whether that is enough, has to make braking better ?
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does somebody quite simply, have to try to put hose connections aviation, to see whether that is enough, has to make braking better ?
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I could have answered this if I had just done the Spieglers lines first and then tested it out. However, all three components (SS lines, Galfer rotors and HH pads) are being installed at the same time. I installed the rotors when I mounted up the Michelin Pilot Powers last weekend. I just finished installing the SS lines last night.

As always here at .oRg, if you want to see these photos in their correct size, you'll have to do a "right click - view image" operation.

I elected to stay with the dark theme of the bikes paint ... black-colored SS lines, titanium-anodized fittings, and black-anodized banjo bolts. Here is the Spiegler fitting on top, stock left caliper cross-over line below it:


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Bleeding the old fluid from the left caliper... always a good time, this....
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The front brake line clamp beneath the steering damper is a real treat to access if you don't remove the lower dash piece first.... after removing the dash trim, a quarter-inch drive 8mm socket made short work out of the clamp:


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The right caliper all done, prior to torquing the double-banjo bolt down to 16.5 ft-lbs:


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Another close-up of the right caliper.... the forward line is the one coming from the master cylinder, the more angled rearward fitting is the left caliper cross-over line:


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Today I do the clutch line, then the always fun task of filling and bleeding both systems with fresh brake fluid.
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Most all 2 line aftermarket kits are designed for one line to each caliper.
Not this Spiegler kit.

It mimics the stock rubber lines exactly.... one line from master cylinder to a double-banjo bolt on the right caliper, which also connects to the left caliper by a cross-over line that loops across the front fender.
 
I tried some aftermarket levers on mine and they too hit the faring on hard turns. So there is an issue here that will have to be dealt with for sure.
 
when you change only for a spielger line kit for example...

you feel a large difference of feeling compared to the origin
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My levers were not 2008 specific so I was just trying some standard stuff hoping they would fit. If I find some that do I will let everyone know. They key is that the distance from the mounting hole to the outermost edge has to be very small like the stockers. Maybe .5-.7" tops. Some of the aftermarket leversl are over an inch and those will hit. I even tried adjusting them to no avail.
 
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